Cladding Question

[gerryknowles]

Morning All,

I am sure this has been asked before so sorry if I am being repetitive but couldn't find an answer on the forum already.

I am building a 37m2 workshop that will be used primarily for storage of lawnmowers fishing gear general stuff that I have collected over the years so to note it is NOT insulated.

I have a breathable membrane fitted and will be ready to clad soon. I note that the general practice is to batten the frame and then clad onto the battens but in my circumstance do I need to batten the frame vertically ? Would it work if I fix the cladding directly to the frame ie go frame membrane cladding? To add to this the bottom of the cladding will be "flared" just for aesthetics but the bottom board will sit in front of the brickwork ie there will be an airgap between the brickwork and the first board ( also an insect mesh)

Any advice as always greatly appreciated

 

[greeno]

The membrane and mesh are only needed for insulated buildings.

As you're not insulating there's no chance of moisture trapping and there's no void for insects to get into.

 

[9fingers]

The membrane and mesh are only needed for insulated buildings.

As you're not insulating there's no chance of moisture trapping and there's no void for insects to get into.

Well maybe but if there is paneling inside say OSB sheet for structural rigidity, then that is potentially creating a void and so the mesh might be needed.

Bob

 

[greeno]

The membrane and mesh are only needed for insulated buildings.

As you're not insulating there's no chance of moisture trapping and there's no void for insects to get into.

Well maybe but if there is paneling inside say OSB sheet for structural rigidity, then that is potentially creating a void and so the mesh might be needed.

Bob

Good point Bob.

OP, more details...

 

[RogerS]

And just in case the OP wasn't aware, 37m2 is over the 30m2 No-Building Control threshold

 

[gerryknowles]

Thanks for the replies,

sorry my bad 27m2 floor area , 3.5m high, 2.5m from my nearest building, and 2.5m from my boundary fence. Also behind the building line so qualifies for permitted development

|I am not using OSB as a brace I have braced using diagonal 4x2 timbers


thanks


Gerry

 

[AJB Temple]

If it really is going to be used as a workshop, then it is a mistake not to insulate it and fit an internal wall sheeting to hang things off. Extra cost not that much, extra usefulness is significant.

 

[Mike G]

.....I have a breathable membrane fitted and will be ready to clad soon. I note that the general practice is to batten the frame and then clad onto the battens but in my circumstance do I need to batten the frame vertically ? Would it work if I fix the cladding directly to the frame ie go frame membrane cladding?....

Hi Gerry. Yes, you should still create an airgap behind your cladding. Feather-edge boarding is only a rainscreen, and it will be breached in places. This means water will collect behind it unless it has a path out, or can be converted to vapour and transported out by air movement. Water collecting behind the cladding threatens any structural members which aren't vertical, such as your diagonal braces and your sole plate.

When you ask about battening vertically (known as counterbattens), are you considering having vertical boarding as the exterior cladding? If you, the answer is more complex than the one I've just given.

 

[gerryknowles]

Thanks for the comprehensive reply Mike. No nothing as complex as vertical cladding , it will be 175mm featheredge cladding fitted horizontally 175mm wide fitted with a gauge of 135mm.