• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Daughters flat

M

MY63

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As per the previous post I agfreed to make my daughter a raised bed for her new home.
Things got a little out of hand and we have ended up rewiring the whole flat which is still in progress.

2022-02-17_12-41-51 by my0771, on Flickr

2022-02-21_03-55-17 by my0771, on Flickr

These are the pictures that caused the rewiring decision, the lighting was just as bad.

Clearly all of the floors had to be lifted to allow access, The living room had two layers of laminate flooring in place. The reason became clear as we lifted the flooring a stone fireplace had been fitted ontop of the first layer. This was how the edging had been fitted nails sticking out and mitres that did not meet.
The window wall is curved and the flooring had been trimmed so it almost fit. Although there were some gaps.
We decided to use 18mm quarter round painted to match the skirting which can be reused when we fit new flooring at a later date.
On Monday we plan to start rewiring the kitchen sockets as the rest are on a seperate ring, We have been using the kitchen sockets for power while wiring the others.
Above the front door is an outside light which did not work it is attached to a small awning above the door.
On opening the lower part of the awning it has quite a bit of rot including the main spars that go into the wall.
I say wall, actually it is a collection of broken bricks pushed into the gap.

Flat door (2) by my0771, on Flickr

The wall above the door is rendered and painted, I cant see any cracks. I did expect to see a lintel above the door but there is literally nothing. Higher up the wall is a windoe which would have illuminated the stairs before the ceiling was lowered. I only wanted to get a wire through for the outside light however now I have uncovered the issue I will sort it.
I am worried about removing the awning and causing more issues with the wall above.
Thoughts and advice appreciated.
 
Must be something about daughters and flats.

My daughters ground floor flat was similar - go to do one job and find 10 more. Hers is a 70's bodged 1900's house conversion. Plenty of floor joists rotten either due to the shower above the bath not sealed and soaking the floor or in the living room because they had filled the under floor void with building rubble so high it bridged the damp course. It goes on...

You have my sympathies.
 
Thanks Robert I spoke to the lady downstairs who told me she has been flooded 4 times by the previous owner.
We are getting a plumber to check the plumbing before they move in :)
 
I have had to park the brickwork above the door to help with the kitchen wiring. I wondered why the kitchen plinth had been screwed in place. Well this is why.

2022-03-09_05-49-16 by my0771, on Flickr

The legs on this unit did not touch the floor which is just as well as they were not attached to the bottom of the unit. Everything sat on this pile of rubbish.
The unit fell apart when we removed the 3 inch screws holding it to the wall, The gas pipe had been fitted through the side of the unit. I guess we now need a plumber who is also gas certified to check everything.
 
Having struggled to remove the first kitchen unit we decided to remove the oven and check behind for any more surprises.
For some reason the units were held in place with 90 degree metal brackets, 75mm screws had been used to hold the units to the plaster lath walls no plugs just long screws. the units were joined together with 50mm screws at the back.

It is a plug in oven however this is the join in the cable. We are replacing the cable extension with an unswitched socket closer to the oven and a fused spur above the counter, we plan to do the same for the washing machine and Fridge freezer.

2022-03-10_05-43-45 by my0771, on Flickr

All of the old wiring is now dead, hopfully we will complete the kitchen tomorrow.

All of the rooms have their original flooring back down now we plan to replace this room by room. As the edge molding is no longer available we are planning to use painted 1/4 round beading. This is my first attempt at making it go around the inside corner.

2022-03-10_06-02-49 by my0771, on Flickr

I am quite pleased with it.
 
My goodness, Michael, that is a horror show.
 
I am letting my house out soon and under the new-ish rules it has to pass an elec survey, even in a fairly well maintained property it’s surprising what can be wrong with it, nothing like the appalling lash ups that you have discovered, still costing £650 to fix it though, mainly a new consumer unit as the old one just wasn’t up to snuff.
 
Officially there has been no electrical work carried out in the property other than the new boiler installation which is on a seperate circuit. The boiler has its own certification.
I have not shown the wiring to the downstairs coal house and the 20m of white flex going out to the garden.
The sofa arrives on Wednesday so I am going to cut the final holes today and start filling some in.
I have spoken to my builder who happens to be called Bob :) about the front door, He thinks when they took out the wodden frame they may have removed the wooden lintel. Or there may have been a glass panel above the original door so the lintel may be higher up. Bob is going to call round over the weekend and will fit it in when he has time.
 
That electrical work looks frightening :o :o

Here locally when we sell a property there has to be an electrical inspection and a COC issued if everything complies. A registered sparky has to do it.
The deeds office will not register unless the COC is in place.

When we sold our previous house, the sparky only fixed one of my connections in the garage/workshop. I had installed a whole lot of plug units for the machines as well as new trips on the DB board and a new earth leakage unit.
 
Phil":2dabsi14 said:
That electrical work looks frightening :o :o

Here locally when we sell a property there has to be an electrical inspection and a COC issued if everything complies. A registered sparky has to do it.
.
Click to expand...

Not far from the situation here.
The conveyancer should have checked the paperwork and the buyer’s surveyor should have checked reality.
The daughter in question is a very lucky lass that her dad is on the ball.
 
Our main issue has been the wiring, which seems to have taken a long time. In our defence we tried to do as little damage as possible. Now we are making holes where they are needed. I spent yesterday putting in capping and filling holes. Plaster is not an issue but there are some old socket holes in skirting boards, If anyone has any quick ways of filling them please let me know.
 
MY63":1s8i7oht said:
Our main issue has been the wiring, which seems to have taken a long time. In our defence we tried to do as little damage as possible. Now we are making holes where they are needed. I spent yesterday putting in capping and filling holes. Plaster is not an issue but there are some old socket holes in skirting boards, If anyone has any quick ways of filling them please let me know.
Click to expand...
I don’t know that it’s quick but I used to glue in a tapered ‘wedge’ that was slightly proud and then plane and sand to suit. I found any filler always cracked eventually.
 
Thanks Stuart I will bear that in mind, these socket holes are around 75mm x 50mm. I cant get even a small router in there. I saw a little depth stop attachment with spiral blade for my Lidl rotary tool that allows it to cut to a set depth. If i can cut a slightly larger shape around the hole 2 or 3mm I can cover it with a suitable piece of wood.
 
MY63":ksllcuzl said:
……. Plaster is not an issue but there are some old socket holes in skirting boards, If anyone has any quick ways of filling them please let me know.
Click to expand...


You sure have a challenge with that property Michael!

I would usually cut pieces of wood to rough size and fit just below finished surface and use pvu adhesive to expand into the gaps. Then skim over with 2 pack adhesive. This is obviously presuming you’re paint finishing!

Kelvin
 
The Kitchen is actually quite small 3 units on the cooker side and 5 or 6 on the sink side. The fitting is not good one of the base units fell apart as it was removed.
Ther upper units are fitted using the metal bracket system. They have been screwed into plaster board over the old plaster lath. There are so many holes none of which are into a stud. I am thinking I will cut all of the mess out and let in a spar of 44mm x 44mm or similar glued and screwed in place. I can add it to the filling and painting list.
I would like advice on the size of screw required to hold the cabinet brackets.
 
I did something similar in the kitchen in our Edinburgh flat (Georgian lath and plaster walls).

The upper cupboards of the previous kitchen were just held up by the usual two screws and metal brackets. Not screwed into anything other than the laths. Not even any plugs/fixings. BUt, I suppose it hadn't fallen down.

I've never actually been very happy with just holding upper cupboards with a couple of screws, which are unlikely to be into studs unless you're incredibly lucky with your cabinet spacing.

So I put in two bits of horizontal softwood, properly screwed into studs, one for the base of the upper cupboards to rest on (which probably bears most of the weight), and the second to secure the upper mountings into. Once you have done this the cupboards can go wherever you want. I worked on the basis that if you have no 8. screws with at least 25mm of thread into solid softwood it isn't going to shear (no chance) or pull out.

Oh, and as said above, do pilot holes. In my case the studs were/are as hard as iron.
 
I have just nipped home for some longer screws for the battern well it is 44mm x 44mm a bit more than a battern.
These are the units not a pretty sight.

2022-03-15_01-01-57 by my0771, on Flickr

The blue line is the installers level line for the tops of the brackets. The red line is my laser line.

2022-03-15_01-02-09 by my0771, on Flickr

2022-03-15_01-02-28 by my0771, on Flickr

2022-03-15_01-02-42 by my0771, on Flickr

2022-03-15_01-02-58 by my0771, on Flickr

This hole was full of no nails and a single screw to hold up the extractor which has never been used as there was no power for it or mains lead.

2022-03-15_01-03-11 by my0771, on Flickr

To be fair the blue line was level but all of the brackets were like this. It would appear that the tiler had saved the day as the thick tiles were supporting the units.

I am going to reinstall the base cabinets this afternoon after refitting the floor which I have scraped clean. Then I can sort the wall units as suggested.
Thanks for the ideas.
 
I have no intention of touching the plumbing, I had to move the washing machine and noticed this odd attachment to the bottom of the sink bowl It has a blue blanking end in pic 1.. There is a thin black pipe leading to a small plastic block 25mm sq, it enters one side and a 15mm threaded tube leaves, It is around 75mm long.

2022-03-16_05-02-31 by my0771, on Flickr

2022-03-16_05-02-44 by my0771, on Flickr

2022-03-16_05-03-21 by my0771, on Flickr

Any ideas
 
it is for a plunge button to operate the pop up plug. I just threw some away while fitting new Belfast sink with spring loaded ones instead and plumbing in the kitchen. The blanking plug is for a hose that should connect to a dish to be fitted at the back of an overflow if the sink has one.

like this

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-ste ... 40mm/2675v

hth
 
droogs":2bqxab45 said:
it is for a plunge button to operate the pop up plug. I just threw some away while fitting new Belfast sink with spring loaded ones instead and plumbing in the kitchen. The blanking plug is for a hose that should connect to a dish to be fitted at the back of an overflow if the sink has one.

like this

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-ste ... 40mm/2675v

hth
Click to expand...

Yes of course, Thanks
 
I thought I would give a little update. As the wall had essentially been perforrated with holes and the cabinets were not fitted on studs. I decided to insert a 44mm x 44mm beam across the studs. This is now in place and will allow the upper cabinets to be securley fitted to the wall. I did similar with the lower cabinets surface mounting two 20mm batterns to the wall creating a gap for the gas supply to the hob. The installation is now square and secure to the wall which is good.
Electrics are almost finished there are three pairs of double sockets in each room, both bedrooms have cat5e connections to the router in the front room.
In the kitchen we have removed two tiles and filled half of the space with sockets and fused spurs for below counter sockets. This means I have two tiles to cut in half, I have zero experience cutting tiles, I would describe them as quarry tiles around 5mm thick, they came off complete with glue and paint from the wall.
If anyone has any advice on cutting them please let me know.
 
5mm sounds a bit thin for a quarry tile.

However, on normal ceramic tiles you need.... a tile cutter.

There are mechanical ones that score a line, along which you can snap it, and powered ones with a circular blade.

Or a good old fashioned tile saw (like a mini hacksaw with an abrasive coated blade).

What you need to do is be careful with the face finish - if it splinters then it looks awful. Masking tape can help here.

I have all of the above (which you can borrow if you want), but TBH they're all pretty cheap to buy or hire. I've used the mechanical one the most, because it's quick and less mess.

Of course if you are using existing tiles, and don't have any replacements you only get one chance. So you may prefer the powered saw.

Good luck.
 
MY63":24yrinmp said:
This means I have two tiles to cut in half, I have zero experience cutting tiles, I would describe them as quarry tiles around 5mm thick, they came off complete with glue and paint from the wall.
If anyone has any advice on cutting them please let me know.
Click to expand...
For tile cutting (inc. intricate shapes) I now use a diamond blade/disc in an angle grinder. It's not especially accurate so for bigger, thicker floor tiles etc where a straight cut is needed I bought a tile cutter thingie from Tops Tiles - Rob
 
As you’re trying to cut old tiles with adhesive on, using a tile cutter is unlikely to be successful. I would suggest as Rob said and use an angle grinder with a diamond disc….and take it slowly.
Or if you’ve access to a wet tile cutter that would be a better option.
 
I could not have been more wrong the tiles are in fact porcelain, There is a half tile (pictured) without adhesive, I found in an outhouse not big enough to fill the two gaps that we have. I do have a tile cutter however it is not long enough to cut the tile. I have an angle grinder somewhere once I have found it i will look for a suitabe blade.

2022-03-20_02-21-10 by my0771, on Flickr

2022-03-20_02-21-32 by my0771, on Flickr

Does anyone know if the Fein multi tool will cut tile with the correct blade?
 
I seem to recall in the distant past trying to cut a slot out of a porcelain tile with a fein and diamond blade with frustrating results. Porcelain is very hard. I’d go with the angle grinder option. Make sure the tile is well supported on a backing board whilst cutting.
 
I took the units on the sink wall today.

2022-03-21_12-05-55 by my0771, on Flickr

There is another bracket to the left not in the picture, Above the sink (remember that) I do not honestly know what had kept these units in place. They were an accident waiting to happen.
My plan was to do the same as I did on the other side, mark lines to position the 2x2 on the centre of the brackets and cut along them with the multi tool. I had marked the thickness of the plaster and laths, the intention being to peel the plaster off then cut through the laths.

OK getting to the point, On this wall and only this wall the palster had been removed and replaced with thinner plaster board. Hiding between the plaster board and the laths were two plastic water pipes. I have nicked one and gone halfway through the other. no leaks as yet.
If anyone has an effective quick fix I would love to hear it.
 
This flat just keeps on giving, doesn't it!

I think if I were you I'd cut out a straight length of the damaged pipe and replace it. The longer the length you can remove, the more wriggle room you will have to wrestle the new bit in, with new push on straight connectors. Don't forget the stainless inserts at the ends to support the pipe in the connectors.

I'm guessing that the "plumber" will have helped by leaving things fairly slack and not put supporting clips in at the spacing recommended by the manufacturers...
 
AndyT said:
This flat just keeps on giving, doesn't it!

I could not have put that better Andy.
I have knocked off for the day now, I am pretty sure I only went through the first layer. There are a number of products on the market I am going to look at I don't want to bury a joint in the wall neither would I like to make a joint in the loft, It is grim up there.
There are no clips on the pipes at all although it has been sandwiched between the plaster board and the old laths.
This in turn has created another issue where the wall has a curve in it. This makes it very difficult to hang the wall units and is why they were falling off the wall.
Click to expand...
 
Andyp":38kciit5 said:
Jeez, your daughter is lucky to have a dad like you.
Click to expand...

Very kind of you Andy, No progress this afternoon as the power needed to be off, we are coming to the end of week 4 I thought it was six but it is 4.
Electrical testing starts on Wednesday only 8 pages of forms to complete pleased it is not me doing it :D
 
I have finally made some progress, The electrics are almost done testing is the final stage.

My neighbour who is a gas fitter had a look at the pipe work where I had caught it with the Fein tool he did a small repair and we are good as new.
This is the sink wall after the units were removed.

2022-03-21_12-05-55 by my0771, on Flickr

As you can see the units were never fitted level, The lower of the 3 brackets you can see played no part in supporting the unit it was hel up by the other unit.
As there were so many holes I could not see anyway to refit the unit without a major repair. I cut a slot in the wall, The full length of the two units just over 2m. I inserted a 44mm x 44mm spar into the studs like this.

2022-03-25_03-54-34 by my0771, on Flickr

Because the water pipes run down in between the plaster boards and the old laths the wall curves towards the window which is out of shot to the left. I tried to smooth it out as best as I could it still needs sanding.
I have marked the wall where the pipes are :D .

This is the cooker side I have replaced the units as they were originally fitted. We plan to refit the kitchen later.

2022-03-25_03-54-47 by my0771, on Flickr

While the power was off I cut all of the 1/4 round beading for the front room only two more rooms to do :)
 
Sorry attempt at humour. Steps and handrail.

2022-03-25_03-55-33 by my0771, on Flickr

This is the existing railing, clearly designed for children. As usual held in place with 75mm screws this time with plugs in the holes. however the screws did not always hit the plugs.

My instructions are to make something that looks good is very stable and does not cost a fortune.
I need help!
 
Whatever you use make it around 1 metre high for a safety rail, too low and it’s easy to go a£$e over tip. DAMHIKT.

Bolt a couple of 3x3 fence posts to the vertical and trellis???
 
You could always extend the posts above head level and take it back to the wall to form a porch, This would give the uprights another fixing point rather than just into the side of the steps. Ian
 
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