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DIY Corian?

Mike G

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Has anyone here made their own Corian (or similar) worktops? Is it even possible?
 
Has anyone here made their own Corian (or similar) worktops? Is it even possible?
What’s it for Mike? I imagine it could be done but is it worth the time & effort when the commercially available brands aren’t exactly horrendously expensive 🤷‍♂️
 
What’s it for Mike? I imagine it could be done but is it worth the time & effort when the commercially available brands aren’t exactly horrendously expensive 🤷‍♂️
Well, I'm thinking about options for the little caravan I want to build. I want a really lightweight worktop, and was thinking of a ply-foam-ply build up, and ...........then what? Forming a vinyl around the whole thing in 1 sheet seemed like a possibility, and it could even go into the sink and up the splashback. I've a friend who is a stainless steel kitchen maker (commercial kitchens are almost all done like that), and whilst that's also a good option, they do look awfully clinical and unattractive.
 
Well, I'm thinking about options for the little caravan I want to build. I want a really lightweight worktop, and was thinking of a ply-foam-ply build up, and ...........then what? Forming a vinyl around the whole thing in 1 sheet seemed like a possibility, and it could even go into the sink and up the splashback. I've a friend who is a stainless steel kitchen maker (commercial kitchens are almost all done like that), and whilst that's also a good option, they do look awfully clinical and unattractive.
Mike, another option for the core could be aluminium honeycomb core boards. They're something like this:

1747639728953.jpeg

I've seen them used at Edward Barnsley as the core of an unsupported panel which needed to stay dead flat (solid wood wouldn't have worked). I think it would be lighter than ply. Don't know about cost though.

As for the outer skin, what about a wood veneer? With the right finish it should be durable and it would look great. Nicer than vinyl in my opinion.
 
Is it really worth the effort and possible future issues Mike? Any thermoplastic you can form will get scratched very easily in use and will look horrible in no time. You can buy caravan / motorhome sink / worktop combinations both new and used which might fit the bill and though you say you're not keen on stainless, it really is the way to go for weight and durability. Many manufacturers fit combination hob and sink with dark glass tops which look OK and work so maybe worth looking at and extra worktop space could be made up. Or maybe buy a lightweight caravan table which will have a tough top surface, cut and edge to suit and drop in an inset sink. the tables are around in a variety of colours and finishes. Here's a photo of the kitchen top in our previous motorhome, table was the same material and not a mark or scratch in seven years use.

Look through some of the caravan spares companies and also camper converter kit suppliers


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Is it really worth the effort and possible future issues Mike? Any thermoplastic you can form will get scratched very easily in use and will look horrible in no time. You can buy caravan / motorhome sink / worktop combinations both new and used which might fit the bill and though you say you're not keen on stainless, it really is the way to go for weight and durability. Many manufacturers fit combination hob and sink with dark glass tops which look OK and work so maybe worth looking at and extra worktop space could be made up. Or maybe buy a lightweight caravan table which will have a tough top surface, cut and edge to suit and drop in an inset sink. the tables are around in a variety of colours and finishes. Here's a photo of the kitchen top in our previous motorhome, table was the same material and not a mark or scratch in seven years use.

Look through some of the caravan spares companies and also camper converter kit suppliers


View attachment 33567
Well, that certainly does look smart. I'll have a little think.......
 
It would be interesting watching you have a go! I assume you want the worktop to have a bit of thickness given the material build up suggested? The worktops in caravans and campers are often thinner than in the home and perfectly appropriate given the reduced size. I'd just go for the ply with melamine laminate.
 
As Matt’s suggests ply would be the way I would attack it. They make a special ply for motor home conversion, from memory the core is Popular and should be readily available in 19 or 16 mm.
I made all the furniture for a modern beach house from the stuff, It’s super nice to work with because of the weigh and the stability.
 

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Plus two for thermoplastics easily damaged. The Missus worked in a design studio, paper end products mostly, the odd advertising banner; they were always getting their Corian central bench touched up. It even felt soft to the touch.
 
Interesting. You see it in hotels everywhere, so I assumed it must be relatively durable.
 
Durable but not without limitations. If you put a hot pan on it straight off the stove, you can melt the surface rather visibly.
 
The pros and cons of Corian (other brands are available) are that it is reasonably durable and the inevitable scratches can be polished out but it needs care and regular maintenance with which it will look good for many years.. Joins can be invisible provided the correctly matched adhesive is used and chip damage can also be filled in an invisible mend but the adhesive doesn't keep well and it's expensive. It's very heavy and brittle so has to be supported, Corian brand is mostly 12mm thick but still heavy as I'm reminded every time I move the offcuts around in the shed.

It's very easily machined, router files, sander etc but the dust is carcinogenic and the damn stuff gets everywhere, creates other nasty medical issues as well. Here's an offcut I heated in the oven and bent round a former to make a simple pen holder. Just an experiment and I think I set the
oven at around 160 c. Don't tell the missus btw. :ROFLMAO:

IMG_2676.JPG
 
Mike.
Just other possible options might be worth checking out depending on the size of worktop you need.

* Large laminate flooring tiles. Ours are around 1200 x 400 per tile and are very durable ond only around 8mm thick. Suppliers often have opened packs where you can buy a single sample board or slightly damaged one.

* Shower laminate wallboards. Not cheap but definitely large enough and lots of patterns available.
 
* Large laminate flooring tiles. Ours are around 1200 x 400 per tile and are very durable ond only around 8mm thick. Suppliers often have opened packs where you can buy a single sample board or slightly damaged one.

* Shower laminate wallboards. Not cheap but definitely large enough and lots of patterns available.

About 500 x 1475 as things currently stand. The shower laminate wallboard idea is brilliant. Thanks Bob.
 
If you find stainless steel clinical, how about copper?
That's bold. I'd be worried about it tarnishing, and reacting with water, food, and various cleaning sprays etc. I love the look, but not sure it's very practical for a working kitchen.
 
That's bold. I'd be worried about it tarnishing, and reacting with water, food, and various cleaning sprays etc. I love the look, but not sure it's very practical for a working kitchen.
I don’t know too much about copper kitchens, only that they exist. Like you, I suspect the copper would develop a patina that shows its use over time, but I know you can get copper worktops in various finishes and textures - I suspect some of these may advance or reduce the effects of use on the patina.
 
There was a guy I knew in Grimsby who produced resin products (20 years ago) and also worktops, tried looking to see if he was still about and fell into a rabbit hole. I don’t know if either of these is what you’re looking for? I took pics as it seemed easiest.
Ian
 

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Copper is nice as a work surface or as a sink, as long as you don't mind patination. There's a reason why all restaurant kitchens are stainless steel. It does scratch pretty easily though. The other obvious alternative is an oak or beech or maple block top. Easy to machine, looks good and is simple for a woodworker like yourself to refinish when needed.
 
...... The other obvious alternative is an oak or beech or maple block top. Easy to machine, looks good and is simple for a woodworker like yourself to refinish when needed.

Weight, Adrian. Weight is all-important.
 
:ROFLMAO: (y)

A Fiesta-sized car. It will have a weight of under 750kg.
Hope my comment didn't come across as rude having reread it could be taken as sarcastic. I was just interested and thought you might do something that crazy :ROFLMAO: Our old Eriba is around that weight, gives mod cons such as a bed, two gas rings and a cold tap. All you need in my opinion.
 
Not such a wild idea though.
Not much room for two in this example, in fact the chap on the bike appears to be taller than the caravan is long.
IMG_4147.jpeg
 
:ROFLMAO: (y)

A Fiesta-sized car. It will have a weight of under 750kg.

You might be a bit challenged where there are hills and mountain passes?
You need strict discipline when it comes to packing and what goes with :) and how you load it.
The weight on the tow bar needs to be such that the van does not lift or drag down the car.
 
Hi Mike, I've had my Corian fabrication certificate for years. If you need any advice drop me a line.
 
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