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Gyokucho ryoba saws

Windows

Windows

Old Oak
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I just received some new saws from Workshop Heaven. They’ve got soft rubbery plastic handles. Anyway, it was only today that I realised the plastic tooth guard acts as a stiffener that helps keep the blade straight in use. They’re backsaws! Makes me wonder what else I’ve been missing?
 
Windows":2bfg9hnh said:
I just received some new saws from Workshop Heaven. They’ve got soft rubbery plastic handles. Anyway, it was only today that I realised the plastic tooth guard acts as a stiffener that helps keep the blade straight in use. They’re backsaws! Makes me wonder what else I’ve been missing?
Click to expand...

I've got a few of the gyokucho saws, but all with wooden or wrapped handles. I saw the TPE ones but wasn't convinced they would suit me. How do you find them?

It had never occurred to me to put the plastic guard on the other side of a ryoba. Does it actually make any difference? I've never felt the need for a back on the ryoba and all the other ones I've got (dozukis) have a back anyway.
 
Windows":2cz169r7 said:
I just received some new saws from Workshop Heaven. They’ve got soft rubbery plastic handles. Anyway, it was only today that I realised the plastic tooth guard acts as a stiffener that helps keep the blade straight in use. They’re backsaws! Makes me wonder what else I’ve been missing?
Click to expand...
No, they're blade protectors, not blade stiffeners. I have the handmade version from WH and if you hold and use the saw as recommended, the blade doesn't need 'stiffening' - Rob
 
I haven’t used the TPE enough to know whether I like it yet. It’s not unpleasant. I’ve been using the rattan-style handles prior to this. I’ll let you know how the TPE stands up to use in a couple of months. Suspect the TPE might come into its own in cold weather.

I would say keeping the plastic on the unused side does make a difference. If your technique is excellent, it might not make much of a difference, but I’ve been mainly using a shorter dozuki and I’m not that experienced with that, so it’s noticeable for me with the ryoba. The plastic is still pretty flexible, so it’s not as stiff as a dozuki, but it’s enough. Give it a try. Only going to be useful if your plastic bit is still nice and straight of course! I mean, it’s a curious side effect, I’m sure.
 
Windows":hq917qyn said:
I would say keeping the plastic on the unused side does make a difference. If your technique is excellent, it might not make much of a difference, but I’ve been mainly using a shorter dozuki and I’m not that experienced with that, so it’s noticeable for me with the ryoba. The plastic is still pretty flexible, so it’s not as stiff as a dozuki, but it’s enough. Give it a try. Only going to be useful if your plastic bit is still nice and straight of course! I mean, it’s a curious side effect, I’m sure.
Click to expand...

I don't need to 'give it a try' :lol: If you follow the advice Matt gives on the Handmade Ryoba page:

"Begin on the far edge of the timber with a full but extremely light stroke. Your saw will cut at full efficiency under its own weight, so gradually allow more of the saw’s weight to be borne by the timber, resisting any temptation to apply downward pressure. If you want to go a little faster once the cut is established, gradually increase the emphasis on the pull part of the stroke. The progressive toothed rip side will generally start smoothly if the teeth are exiting the cut through the end grain. If you need to enter through, or cut across the endgrain, start the cut with the crosscut side, then flip the saw and proceed gently with the rip teeth".

With care, they're not difficult to use; the caveat is 'care' :D - Rob
 
Windows":1ol1clr2 said:
The plastic is still pretty flexible, so it’s not as stiff as a dozuki, but it’s enough. Give it a try.
Click to expand...

I'll certainly give it a try (when the workshop drops below the temperature of the surface of the sun). As I've said, I don't feel like it's necessary, but that doesn't mean it isn't worth a bit of experimentation for curiosity's sake if nothing else.
 
You’re still right, Rob. Hope my sense of whimsy hasn’t caused too much confusion.

In addition to those excellent instructions, I’ll add that some saws (perhaps not the handmade one?) have smaller teeth close to the handle on the rip side that make it easier to start the cut without switching to the crosscut side.

I see the page you mention also says this about the handmade saw: “the extra stiffness actually makes it a little bit easier to use than a replaceable blade saw” :lol:
 
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