Jimmy Mack's Shop Tinkerings

[Jimmy Mack]

Ok...whilst I wait for the knitting machine to arrive... :lol:

Time to roll in the sucker...



I bought this off ebay about 6 months ago...Don't even know if it works! I gave the motor arbor a waggle and that was about it. It came on a roller base, which I've abandoned as it'll be static.

The bags have rips and even after a scrub and a spin in SWIMBO's WM (covertly) it's clear they've had their day...the bag holder-up'ers are bent and their location points at the machine are sheared off :? However, I plan to get the cartridge filters from Charnwood (when they're back in stock). Anyone tried them, in particularly the Charnwood ones...

http://www.charnwood.net/products/p...mm-diameter-drums-cf2024/category_pathway-417

You'll see the 3 ph pops up on the right and will go into a rotary isolator, prior to feeding the machine and some kind of multi start/stop switch arrangement (tips here welcome).

The keen eye's will notice the floor and machine ports aren't inline. The reason for this (honest) is the elbow under the floor and I wanted the bags and filters easily accessible, on the LHS. They could be lined up with a shunt to the left but then we'd loose a little corner space, not a lot, but good to not have dead spots from the get go :lol:

A question...Keeping the run as straight as possible to maximise flow... Do you think a flexi pipe between the two is a bad idea?

Jim

 

[9fingers]

Switching methods for the collector are only limited by your imagination and needs

You can sense the current drawn by the dust producing machines and use that.
you can remote on and off buttons to each machine
you can use relays on each machine to control the collector
you can have a string line above head height to work a switch
you can have a remote control in your pocket.
you can have switches on the blast gates - any gate open switches on the collector
etc etc

Bob

 

[Doug]

A lot of extractors have flexible pipe on them as part of their design so I don't see why using a flexible pipe between your extractor & ductwork should be detrimental.

My own extractor has a 6" flexible pipe between the impeller & the bag inlet, it also has a fine filter which I've been very pleased with, thinking about it if must be around 11years old & is still working well though I am fairiy rigorous with its maintenance routine.

If you are going to heat your workshop then to my mind a fine filter is the way to go as you can keep the air clean & retain your heat, though I do still run an ambient air filter.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Switching methods for the collector are only limited by your imagination and needs

You can sense the current drawn by the dust producing machines and use that.
you can remote on and off buttons to each machine
you can use relays on each machine to control the collector
you can have a string line above head height to work a switch
you can have a remote control in your pocket.
you can have switches on the blast gates - any gate open switches on the collector
etc etc

Bob

Thanks Bob, A few options I hadn't considered there.

Initially I'll probably find myself running back and forth to the switch...I've not looked in the extractor's switch yet...I'm presuming it has some kind of contactor gate that opens on one of the phases which I could hook up with some two way switching, the housing looks kinda small though...I'll investigate when my Sparks shows next week to test my circuits and hook me up :text-woo:

The design I favour (wish list), which you mention, is the current draw sensor arrangement. I think Axminster used to do one (£££s), but it might of been single phase only (?)...I have seen a Felder switching unit on a forum... somewhere... but folk were struggling with the Austrian/ German instructions :lol:

Thanks,

Jim

 

[Jimmy Mack]

A lot of extractors have flexible pipe on them as part of their design so I don't see why using a flexible pipe between your extractor & ductwork should be detrimental.

My own extractor has a 6" flexible pipe between the impeller & the bag inlet, it also has a fine filter which I've been very pleased with, thinking about it if must be around 11years old & is still working well though I am fairiy rigorous with its maintenance routine.

If you are going to heat your workshop then to my mind a fine filter is the way to go as you can keep the air clean & retain your heat, though I do still run an ambient air filter.

Thanks Doug, Looks like the PU flexi is a viable option. Looking at the set-up with fresh morning eyes and I see I may have to shunt the unit left, otherwise my collection bags will clash with the pipe!

Plus one on the ambient filter, it's one of my priorities, we have the Jet 1000b at the Sculpture Studio in Leeds. I've not tried the Cartridge filters before, and they are a bit of an investment for a pair, but if they filter down lower then it's a no brainer - health wise. Does the paddle cleaner arrangement work well enough to clear the filters without damaging the pleats? How often do you turn the paddles, based on usage?

Thanks,

Jim

 

[Doug]

I rotate the paddles every time I've put a fresh bag on after emptying the extractor. Every so often I take the filter off & Hoover it out the frequency of which depends on what machine & wood I've been using, last week I emptied the extractor 4 times but as it was all oak & pine shavings from the planer & thicknesser very little dropped down into the new bag when the paddles were rotated.

One thing I was told years ago was not to blow compressed air through the filter to clean it as it would be detrimental to the filter material in the long run, I don't know how valid this is but due to the cost of the filter & the fact that the chap who told me this knew far more about filters than me I have as said always hoovered when necessary & am pleased with how long it has lasted, they are as you say Jimmy quite an investment


Re switching this might be of some use http://www.toolovation.co.uk/iVAC_vacuu ... _s/153.htm
I'm looking into getting a switching unit but have held fire as I believe they are making a more industrial unit that will deal with heavier loads, that said I might get one of the 13amp units so I'm not dependent on vacuums with auto switching when using power tools.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

...
Re switching this might be of some use http://www.toolovation.co.uk/iVAC_vacuu ... _s/153.htm
I'm looking into getting a switching unit but have held fire as I believe they are making a more industrial unit that will deal with heavier loads, that said I might get one of the 13amp units so I'm not dependent on vacuums with auto switching when using power tools.

Thanks Doug,

I had a quick chat with a chap at Toolovation, he was very helpful. They're hoping to have the cable sensor switches in (from America) for the New Year, to run with a 240v system and auto blast gates (which I'm not too concerned about)...He said they might be able to advise on a 240v contractor set up for 3 ph. but essentially to keep eyes on the website for updates.

jim

 

[DaveL]

Just a possible warning, I bought a 3hp single phase unit from Axminster, the NVR that was fitted was not a proper direct on line starter. It used the ON button to mechanically operate the contacts which are then held closed by the holding coil. If yours has the same type of arrangement you will not be able to add remote on/off buttons on your other machines.
The other thing was the switch was under rated for the motor it was controlling, I have removed it from my unit and replaced it with a relay allow remote control of the dust collector.

 

[Jimmy Mack]

Progress...of sorts...

Sent from my HTC 0P6B900 using Tapatalk

 

[Malc2098]

And there's still room to have a game of table tennis!

 

[Pinch]

Looking good Jim.

What colour have you painted your walls? It looks like there's a hint of blue unless it's a reflection.

 

[RogerS]

As fine-dust filters get used, there is a build-up of dust. The technical term is 'blinding' IIRC.

I don't have any paddles and so resort to whacking the filter about to try and dislodge the dust build-up but I really should replace it. I do remember weighing a brand new filter and one that had been 'blinded' and it worked out to something like 4kg of dust up inside those filter bits.

The scientific way to determine how well your filter and dust extraction system is working is to get a cheap manometer and measure the pressure differential between the inside of the bag with all the shavings in and the air in the workshop while the extractor is running. If your filter is working perfectly then there should be minimal pressure difference between the two.