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Making a marking knife

sunnybob

sunnybob

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I'm thinking of making my own marking knife from some steel left over from my giant Bowie, but have never actually seen one.
I've seen pictures of the general shape but if anyone has one I would like to know the width of the double sided one and the thickness of the steel, and if anyone has an idea how long the steel inside the handle is?
 
Bob, I think there are so many designs of marking knife it's too hard to work out what sort you are thinking of.

Some you hold like a pen, some you hold in your fist. Some have a tiny thin blade like a scalpel, others could carve stone.

Do you have a picture of one you like?
 
It depends on how elaborate you want to be. You could do it the Japanese way and literally just have a lump of steel with a couple of angles ground on the end (the site says this is 15mm wide, FYI):

kensaki-shiribiki-marking-knife.jpg


Like Woodster's example, you can pin a couple of handles to it if you so desire.

Or you could go for something more elegant, such as this:

narex_marking_knife.jpg


It's all really what you fancy really, there are so many variations!

(edit: Andy beat me to it!)
 
Woodster":2efyccia said:
The only type I’ve used is this type.

https://www.axminstertools.com/crown-11 ... fe-ax21839

It says in the description it’s 6 inches long so maybe you can work out the others?
Click to expand...
Funnily enough, I bought one of these when I was making up a basic kit in the states in the summer of 2019 and it cost me near enough £7 – well it would’ve done had I been in England, so it’s gone up quite a bit in percentage terms but still a reasonable price for a good bit of kit.
But it was surprising I got a whole load of tools from Axminster posted out for about £25 postage — superefficient. It’s what I’ve always said, you don’t need to spend a fortune to get a good basic set of woodworking tools, excluding a Nr 4 plane and some chisels the total was £140 inc P and P.
The knife itself is all you would want from a marking knife for a right-handed person. Ian
2E3B1727-E4E5-48D9-9EE6-930D78CC912E.png
 
I like your tool tidy. It’s reminiscent of the commercial ones you can buy. ;)

86DDCCBB-EDA9-452C-9843-6B77578C1718.jpeg
 
Trevanions double edged stiletto is what I'm after. I spent a half hour on axminsters site last night and couldnt find a one of them.
My normal stream of visitors bearing gifts and bribes has dried up this past 2 years, so I'm having to resort to alternative methods.
There is one specialist tool shop in Nicosia that might have one, but he doesnt speak english the way I dont speak greek, so it will have to wait till I go there to find out.

I have the steel at 6 mm thick, so I can play around with that a bit.

I have loads of offcuts of exotic wood. I can slice and insert the steel and reglue to hide the shank. I cant think of a source of the brass ferrules though. Although if I epoxy the steel in I wont actually need one.
 
It all rather depends what you make. I've got 3, one of the double edged sort I made from 1/2" x 1/16" tool steel with a turned handle, one very traditional Crown one, and a stout one made of something like 20mmx3mm steel with wood scales on a full-length tang made by RXH ( :text-thankyouyellow: ) I use them all, depending on the job. The first is good for dovetails, the last is better for heavy cuts to register a chisel in.
 
I’m wondering why anyone would specifically want a “double” edged one like those pictured? I assumed it was just manufactured like that so it could be used by both right or left handed users. Is there another reason though? This type seems to have a much keener edge and would be easier to sharpen?

F6C5600E-C5FC-48EA-865C-4A1431DA4FB8.jpeg
 
Woodster":2h07xlb1 said:
I’m wondering why anyone would specifically want a “double” edged one like those pictured?
Click to expand...

For marking into blind corners such as when your marking up dovetails.
 
I just like the look of it. Isnt that reason enough? :lol: :lol:

The flat steel type would get lost within days.

A nice bubinga handle shaped on the bobbin sander would stand out on the workbench.
I have bits of 86/70 chrome steel. Its a bit overkill as its 5 mm thick, but its here, and its free, the perfect combination. 8-)
 
sunnybob":383ex86u said:
I have bits of 86/70 chrome steel. Its a bit overkill as its 5 mm thick, but its here, and its free, the perfect combination. 8-)
Click to expand...

Not if you are marking out lapped dovetails with skinny pins though. This is where a slender double sided one works - you can flip it over for the left/right sides when transferring tails onto the pin board.
 
Sheffield Tony":3iff5rx7 said:
Not if you are marking out lapped dovetails with skinny pins though. This is where a slender double sided one works - you can flip it over for the left/right sides when transferring tails onto the pin board.
Click to expand...
Lapped dovetails generally mean hand tool work, though - probably not something Bob's worried about.
 
sunnybob":1488x0oq said:
I just like the look of it. Isnt that reason enough? :lol: :lol:
Click to expand...

Absolutely but I can’t help thinking for most jobs the one I pictured might be nicer to use?
 
Tony, listen to SPB......
I've only just gotten around to mortise and tenon, ANY kind of dovetail is not in my future :lol: :lol:

You know what? This thread has only just reminded me I have a hooked lino knife that was my dad's. I never got on with the thing, this might be the perfect opportunity to "upcycle" it :eusa-clap:
It has to be at least 70 years old, should be a nice bit of steel. 8-)
 
OOPS, went searching for that lino knife. Couldnt find it.
Then I remembered I moved it on a couple years ago with a bunch of unwanted tools. :oops:
Back to the drawing board. :eusa-whistle:
 
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