MFT/TS55 conundrum

[Craig Salisbury]

im not sure i mentioned this before, I have setup my mft (sister decides she wants a cutting board). checked the fence against the back of the rail and have a perfect 90, checked with a 12" and 10" machinist square as well as a shinwa and all look good. run the cut and one side is >1mm out. could it be possible the the rail is out on the cut side? or the saw is punky? its not that old and has hardly had a bad life.

i did make a shooting board, and realised i suck at that.





any ideas would be a help, something to note that on the end of the cut it seems to deflect in a bit, wondering if going ack to an original blade might help as i swapped the original out for a key blades one recently....alas i dont remember if this was a problem previously or whether i changed the blade because of it.

 

[Craig Salisbury]

well first things first, a new blade ordered and a splinter guard change, dont reckon its going to help though. i spose i could try my 1400 track to see if that helps otherwise i see no other option than to send it in.

scrap that, clipping on the end seems to be a wear fault, not that it gets much use so just put in a repair request and will send it off instead

 

[Trevanion]

Is the blade cutting perfectly parallel to the track? If the base of the saw has been knocked (or was sent out a bit dodgy from factory) it's possible that the blade could be cutting at a skewed angle which could cause those kinds of results.

 

[Craig Salisbury]

Is the blade cutting perfectly parallel to the track? If the base of the saw has been knocked (or was sent out a bit dodgy from factory) it's possible that the blade could be cutting at a skewed angle which could cause those kinds of results.

the saw runs on 2 plastic doodads with 2 cams on the outside to snug it, i have checked that its all nice and snug, but for now its festools problem. will see what they come back with but from what i see on FOG they change the base.

 

[Woodbloke]

i did make a shooting board, and realised i suck at that.

FWIW, I had an TS55 and a MFT and got rid of both of them. A shooter, if constructed correctly and used properly, is absolutely ideal for this sort of job. Over the decades I've built loads of the things and the best one by a bazillion light years is this bad boy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwYJhfChDdM

It's simple, it's easy to make, it's dead accurate and is easy to keep accurate and it just works brilliantly. Once you've made it, you'll wonder how you ever did any woodmangling without one - Rob

 

[Craig Salisbury]

i did make a shooting board, and realised i suck at that.

FWIW, I had an TS55 and a MFT and got rid of both of them. A shooter, if constructed correctly and used properly, is absolutely ideal for this sort of job. Over the decades I've built loads of the things and the best one by a bazillion light years is this bad boy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwYJhfChDdM

It's simple, it's easy to make, it's dead accurate and is easy to keep accurate and it just works brilliantly. Once you've made it, you'll wonder how you ever did any woodmangling without one - Rob

ah thats the shooting board i made, alas the only hand plan i have is a low angle smoother.....we wont get into sharpening lol

 

[Woodbloke]

ah thats the shooting board i made, alas the only hand plan i have is a low angle smoother.....we wont get into sharpening lol

Cunning plan thwarted! :lol: You do of course need a half respectable hand plane to use on it and a (Veritas?) low angle smoother ain't it, but an old Record/Stanley No.5 or longer would be fine - Rob

 

[Craig Salisbury]

ah thats the shooting board i made, alas the only hand plan i have is a low angle smoother.....we wont get into sharpening lol

Cunning plan thwarted! :lol: You do of course need a half respectable hand plane to use on it and a (Veritas?) low angle smoother ain't it, but an old Record/Stanley No.5 or longer would be fine - Rob

It is indeed a Veritas, I did have a Record No5 as well as a rider LA jack, but i passed them on. ill have to get re-investing in another.....as well as building a decent bench, all i need is more room

 

[Alf]

Given the size and bevel orientation of a mitre plane, I'm always fascinated as to why a bevel up smoother is no good for shooting. Happily I live in ignorance and found it worked absolutely fine, but I've often found you can do all sorts of things when you don't know it's not possible.

But more to the point, don't let me dissuade anyone from buying more planes.

 

[spb]

That video does appear to show him using a Veritas low angle smoother for shooting mitres, and there's no reason it oughtn't to work for that. For shooting square ends you might want a plane with a bit more mass to it, but that's more preference and ease of use than requirement.

The Veritas bevel up smoother, on the other hand, is a completely different plane that's no use for shooting anything because its sides aren't square.

 

[Woodbloke]

Given the size and bevel orientation of a mitre plane, I'm always fascinated as to why a bevel up smoother is no good for shooting. Happily I live in ignorance and found it worked absolutely fine, but I've often found you can do all sorts of things when you don't know it's not possible.

The configuration of the plane is fine, but if it's the Veritas BU smoother I'm thinking of, there's not much metal for it to run on when it's turned on it's side, which makes the whole process very 'iffy'. The BU Jack is a better is a much better option, unless of course you really push the bateau out and purchase a dedicated shooting board plane - Rob

 

[Craig Salisbury]

tis this

https://www.axminstertools.com/veritas- ... ade-717399

 

[RogerS]

Did you check the position of the rail after the cut ? maybe it moved slightly? How is it clamped down?

 

[Alf]

Forgive me, I'd forgotten the fine nuances in naming, gentlemen. I was thinking of mine, and that didn't allow for Veritas at all because it's a Lie-Nielsen. :lol: But my rhetorical questioning was directed more at the notion it's got to be a jack size plane or above. It might be a personal preference, but it's not a necessity.

 

[Craig Salisbury]

Did you check the position of the rail after the cut ? maybe it moved slightly? How is it clamped down?

The rail is locked in place on the mft and i also ran some cuts with the material clamped to make sure the material didnt move.

ill see what they come back with and investigate further if need be.

 

[Woodbloke]

Forgive me, I'd forgotten the fine nuances in naming, gentlemen. I was thinking of mine, and that didn't allow for Veritas at all because it's a Lie-Nielsen. :lol: But my rhetorical questioning was directed more at the notion it's got to be a jack size plane or above. It might be a personal preference, but it's not a necessity.

If memory serves, the LN would be a better option than the Veritas for use on a shooter and yep, I'd agree, a jack or bigger would be better - Rob

 

[Cabinetman]

i did make a shooting board, and realised i suck at that.

FWIW, I had an TS55 and a MFT and got rid of both of them. A shooter, if constructed correctly and used properly, is absolutely ideal for this sort of job. Over the decades I've built loads of the things and the best one by a bazillion light years is this bad boy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwYJhfChDdM

It's simple, it's easy to make, it's dead accurate and is easy to keep accurate and it just works brilliantly. Once you've made it, you'll wonder how you ever did any woodmangling without one - Rob

Hi Rob, quite liked that shooting board, also the guy wasn’t too verbose for a change, couldn’t see who he was though, I know you will all be saying how doesn’t he know that's ............. lol