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Osmo UV-Protection oil - still sticky and tacky

RogerS

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Our latest addition to the garden is a cedar clad building for LOML. The suppliers used a roller to apply Osmo UV-Protection oil and it is so, so sticky and tacky to the touch.

Talking to Osmo technical department, the building supplier neglected to let the cedar weather for 12 weeks which meant that the oils in the cedar effectively prevented the proper absorption of the Osmo so it just sits on the top, will be minimally absorbed and so rendering the application pretty pointless. Meanwhile for weeks or months being really horrible to the touch and souring the enjoyment of the building.

Disappointing.
 
Rodger I was taught the you never put anything on cedar as it has it’s own oils that protect it……this is info from 40 years ago so could be outdated as new products come on the market.
 
Any milage, as it is one of the ingredients, in wiping down areas subject to personal contact with White spirit to thin down and remove excess unabsorbed coating?
 
Ignoring the obvious thing about cedar's properties: but Osmo will *always* get sticky if it is applied too thick. They recommend to use a *thin* layer, but in practise I regularly see that people apply it way too thick. In fact I see that more often than not. Especially when it is rolled on. (Not suggesting that you do it wrong, just an observation.)

Could that be part of your problem?
 
Any milage, as it is one of the ingredients, in wiping down areas subject to personal contact with White spirit to thin down and remove excess unabsorbed coating?
I was just about to say just this. I would just wipe and wipe and wipe with white spirit. It does work, eventually. I've had this issue once or twice with linseed oil.
 
Not good, presumably you have a guarantee of some kind and will be chasing the supplier to put it right?
 
Ignoring the obvious thing about cedar's properties: but Osmo will *always* get sticky if it is applied too thick. They recommend to use a *thin* layer, but in practise I regularly see that people apply it way too thick. In fact I see that more often than not. Especially when it is rolled on. (Not suggesting that you do it wrong, just an observation.)

Could that be part of your problem?
Applying any Polymerising oil too generously always risks curing problems because once surface skin forms it seals off oxygen access to the underlying oils thus increasing 'cure' time.

This becomes very annoyingly obvious if you attempt to burnish an oiled surface too soon before 'curing' is completed as the surface skin has a tendency to strip off.


I see that OSMO recommends not thinning product before application, I might be tempted to ignore this if there was any doubt about surface absorption and apply a couple of thinned coats.
 
What a pain! I'm using Osmo on my ongoing kitchen project and last weekend was rushing to finish a little shelving unit before the weekend ended and was suprised that the line between the right amount and too much is very easy to cross! Rushed application meant some sticky areas but only a few. I wiped with white spirit and rubbed with a scotchbrite pad before the final application and all was well - I think!
 
So I've had a reply from the supplier below.

We have always coated the Osmo oIl in the factory because we cannot return to the site within the 12 week lead time to coat the building as requested by Osmo.. We have never had an issue doing this. The issue with your tacky coating is that the coating was only applied two days ago and will take around 2-3 more days to settle down.

The WRC we have is stocked here for usually 2 months before use and is Kiln Dried. This means the main moisture has already been removed from the WRC prior to moulding, so I would question why the 12 week wait applies to KD material.

In my previous role, I was an Operations Manager at a Timber Cladding company in Birmingham for 17 years and I have been to Vancouver many, many times (once for just 24 hours but that is another story!) In all that time I have purchased and sold thousands of containers of WRC and was responsible for the Coating all products. For decades, we commercially sold oiled WRC to contractors, and this product never had a season time applied to the OSMO product (I actually changed the previous supplier for .... to Osmo as it is a much better product than the one being used previously). WRC will silver down fairly quickly in the Summer and given its already 30 plus tonal hues will be almost impossible to keep its 'new look' if not treated quickly.

To be clear I am not saying Osmo is wrong here Roger but there are a few other things at play which I hope I have mentioned.

Please keep in touch and once it has dried if there are any issues you know we will deal with them for you. You have been an unbelivebly good customer to this business and we will help and assist however and whenever required .


I know what I think but would be interested to hear what you guys think.

There is also the question of the sawdust covered panels. That doesn't brush off but will need scraping off.

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And I've left the best 'til last. One panel is already rotting. I can pick bits out with my thumbnail.

20260605_153321.jpg
 
You can pick bits out of WRC with your thumbnail at the best of times. It's always very soft. You'll know better than me, but it doesn't look to me like it's rotting. It just looks like it missed the thicknesser. That's what sawn WRC can look like. It's actually really rot resistant (they make boats out of it for a reason), so I wouldn't overly worry about that bit. Bring it to their attention and see what they say.
 
I agree. That doesn't look like rot at all to me. Just very soft wood that has a lot of tear out. Seeing how wide those growth rings are at that spot I am not surprised it happened exactly there. That spot will be softer than normal. But I can't be sure of the grain direction from the screen. On the other hand: I have to admit I am not used to working with this type of wood, so maybe I am trying to apply knowledge where it is not applicable.
 
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