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Paduk, gluing thereof....

Woodbloke

Woodbloke

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I have just experienced a little issue with gluing some drawer slips in Paduk onto some sides made of the same. Using TB3, both failed and upon consulting Google it appears that this wood is naturally very oily. However, further enquires online revealed that there's no problem with gluing it, which seems a bit odd....

I sorted out my slips by removing them, cleaning up the old gunk, a rub of sandpaper, then a wipe over with meths (same procedure as you'd use for teak). I then used some excellent 30minute epoxy and both slips now appear to be glued as solid as a solid thing.

So I wonder, have any other of you chaps had a problem with gluing Paduk (lovely timber btw)?? - Rob
 
Is this the same stuff as Padauk / aka vermillion. I've got a couple of unused small, rather thin planks that are old, chalked as vermillion. Never worked with it.
 
I've used Padauk for neck laminations, headstock veneers, rosettes and other stuff on my instruments hand have had no problems with TBO. I use TBO to glue slices of veneer side by side, the very thin edge, and it's never failed me.
 
I've made a couple of boxes out of padauk, one mitred and one with dovetails. Both glued really easily with no problems at all. Both glued with TB1 I think, but one may have been fish glue.

I hate the wood though: horrible stuff to plane, with the grain changing direction every 20 mm or so across the width. Even a 62° cutting angle bevel-up plane wouldn't sort it out and I had to use a scraper plane. I came close to chucking the whole plank on the fire.
 
Dr.Al said:
I've made a couple of boxes out of padauk, one mitred and one with dovetails. Both glued really easily with no problems at all. Both glued with TB1 I think, but one may have been fish glue.

I hate the wood though: horrible stuff to plane, with the grain changing direction every 20 mm or so across the width. Even a 62° cutting angle bevel-up plane wouldn't sort it out and I had to use a scraper plane. I came close to chucking the whole plank on the fire.
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I think you may have been unlucky with the board Dr.Al. The material I've been using (crown cut) is beautiful stuff and planed without any tear up of any sort; the shovetails in the drawer construction went together as planned as well. I'd agree if it was Bubinga which is virtually impossible to plane on quarter sawn surfaces

Interesting to see that other users of this stuff haven't found problems with gluing it; maybe the lump I was using was extra oily and the TB3 didn't stick. I'll see on the 'morrow after the epoxy glue has fully cured overnight whether or not I've been successful but I think I may have sorted it. Interestingly, I glued severial bits together with TB3 for the drawer base with no issues of any sort. Very odd..... - Rob
 
When I worked at a yacht builders the carpenters gluing teak would first clean it with acetone then use a glue green in colour. Expoy resin glue is supposed to be v.good.
 
Excuse me sort of hijacking the thread with a similar question, but what's zebrano like when it comes to planing and gluing up? It looks like its would be absolute murder to rip. I ask because I got a roughly 4' x 8" x 2" plank of it for a tenner.
 
I tend to the view that zebrano can be a bit visually overpowering and it would perhaps be best employed for visual accents.

However, I think it works brilliantly on your paper bin. If I can ever summon up the courage to take my rip saw to it, I might try to make one of those. Then the challenge would be to follow your plans but with hand tools.
 
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