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Painting exterior woodwork

Halo Jones

Halo Jones

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I need to refurbish my wooden double glazed windows and paint a couple of gates I have just made.

I last did the windows in 2010 using a Dulux trade system. I followed their instructions to the letter on 19 windows taking me the best part of the summer working weekends. It was meant to last 8-10 years but showed real signs of wear after 3 years and now looks unsightly after 5. Most unimpressed!

The two I am looking at now are: Johnstones stormshield system and (after Mike's post on his build thread) - Bedec (MSP or Barn Paint)

So. I was wondering what everyone on here paints exterior woodwork with?


Thanks.
 
I built my house in 2007 and 8 years on all the soffit and facia is still good except for one patch. I used the Sikkens range. I had no experience with it but I have a mate that runs a painters merchants who really knows his stuff and he recommended it as well as giving me 40% off! It's definitely good quality gear, how long it will last is yet to be determined and I have no idea why this one area has gone all flaky because it's east facing. The whole of the rest of the build has lasted really well so far.
 
I would also add that up there near the beautiful Tay you'll be hard pushed to have anything last for anything like 8-10 years. 3-4 is a good bet.

We supply radio comms products and Scotland is the only market where we have to ruggedise the Outdoor part. (well, that and oil rigs!)

My father has owned a decorating business for 4o odd years and says the Sikkens is pretty good. I've also heard good things about Bedec as well.

Good luck, I hope you find something useful!
 
A quick look at the websites and it seems that Sikkens and Dulux now have some kind of unholy alliance. Not sure who took over who, unless it was AkzoNobel that just bought them all. Unless I am being silly you can still by Sikkens varnishes etc but if you look at paint you are directed to the Dulux range.
 
I would also add that up there near the beautiful Tay you'll be hard pushed to have anything last for anything like 8-10 years. 3-4 is a good bet.
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The weather is not that bad up here! Is it :eusa-think:

I mean today we are the hottest place in the country (and I am stuck inside with not even a window :eusa-violin: )
 
As you might imagine, I now specify Bedec paint for all exterior woodwork. For windows, you want the MSP, which has a deeper density of pigment than the Barn paint. I guess the one disadvantage of Bedec is that the range of colours is still relatively small: about 40.
 
Fair point; For our stuff, it's the salt air and changeable weather I think.

Our customer asked why we don't have the problem in Sweden as they have larger temp swings, we put it down to the salt content.

It's a lovely spot up there- far prettier than my native Cheshire!
 
stephen.wood125":1huya62d said:
Fair point; For our stuff, it's the salt air and changeable weather I think.

Our customer asked why we don't have the problem in Sweden as they have larger temp swings, we put it down to the salt content.

It's a lovely spot up there- far prettier than my native Cheshire!
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I'd agree re salt content, the baltic is nearly fresh water with trees growing down the beach etc.
 
Nobel took over Dulux, Polycell and I think Cuprinol?

I used Sikkens Cetol HLS & Filter 7 on my external wood which is mainly softwood and has survived ( except for one area) for 23 yrs.
South facing needs a slight touch up every 2 to 3 yrs. North facing seems to last forever.
The downside is that the colour builds up over the yrs so any that sands or rubs off shows a colour difference until several coats have been applied.
This is a cill that rotted from underneath that I've just replaced - with only 1 coat of Sikkens so far:

34a540d02d3d50187ec791cf5f3bc2ab.jpg


A person on another forum keeps bashing on about Linseed paints, though if they were that good why not more common or better known?

Rod
 
My father has used linseed oil paints in the past. I'm sure they are good... if you have guaranteed fine weather for the thick end of a week. Preferred by those of a certain persuasion (I'm sure you can imagine the leather and fossil fuel shunners who prefer the lowest VOC stuff they can get- not saying it's necessarily bad to reduce the solvents, but they help make bloody good coatings much more usable by not needing to cure for epochs)

Interesting fact about Nobel/Dulux... They used to make Glidden paint which in the acrylic eggshell and some types of emulsion is as good as Dulux for quite a lot less money.

Now they renamed Glidden to "Armstead" I'm not convinced it's as good.

Anyhow, sorry for the tangent.

As before the Cetol Filter 7 Sikkens was always excellent. My dad's staff are using more and more Bedec Barn paint. It's even good to work with.
 
Mike G":2re8nun7 said:
As you might imagine, I now specify Bedec paint for all exterior woodwork. For windows, you want the MSP, which has a deeper density of pigment than the Barn paint. I guess the one disadvantage of Bedec is that the range of colours is still relatively small: about 40.
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Hi Mike, Do you recommend using it without a primer as they suggest?
 
Hi Stoneface and welcome to the forum. If you have a moment why not tell us a bit about yourself on our Welcome board?
 
stoneface":13d612zs said:
Hi Mike, Do you recommend using it without a primer as they suggest?
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Yes. You thin the first coat quite a lot (25%, I think). Then 2 full coats.
 
Cheers, I think i'll try this on a conservatory I have to build this year.
 
Mike G":1286ugve said:
As you might imagine, I now specify Bedec paint for all exterior woodwork. For windows, you want the MSP, which has a deeper density of pigment than the Barn paint. I guess the one disadvantage of Bedec is that the range of colours is still relatively small: about 40.
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Mike, Just wondering what results you've had with this paint to recommend it so highly?

In my last bit of exterior timber work I used superdec with Medite Tricoya which is coping extremely well and is fully south facing on a main road.

I once spent around £600 on external ply (recommendation from an old joiner) making a large set of painted gates. They looked fantastic. After the first season it was quite clear that the timber choice was a problem. I think I may even have suffered with marine ply. Essentially the ply de-laminates water ingresses and the oil based paint/primer I used traps the water and rots the gates. It's now an annual event to maintain them and I've replaced 30% of one of the gates with filler and fiber glass. A sickening task.

Fortunately the publicly visible side of the gate has only minor damage although the filler invariably shrinks back and leaves hairline cracks which is really annoying. I would only ever use plywood externally for temporary rough work. It does not like water or temperature change.
 
billybuntus":3ggy5nqz said:
.... I would only ever use plywood externally for temporary rough work. It does not like water or temperature change.
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Wonder what boat-builders use to protect marine ply ?
 
RogerS":3l3lbo3i said:
billybuntus":3l3lbo3i said:
.... I would only ever use plywood externally for temporary rough work. It does not like water or temperature change.
Click to expand...

Wonder what boat-builders use to protect marine ply ?
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Small boats for use on lakes and ponds are generally not fiber glassed as it add weight.

Larger boats that are made of marine ply invest in resins epoxy/polyester etc to encapsulate the hull. Various resin paints are also used I believe.

I've screwed aluminium angle to the underside of the gate and put aluminium plate on the bottom section (about a foot high) and encapsulated in resin. It's pretty effective against snow in the winter. But I've no doubt problems will lurk beneath eventually as it's kind of like having a welly on and water will no doubt find a route into it with no way out. I like timber work to look very square and clean and fiberglass doesn't lend itself to producing a perfectly flat surface.
 
I no longer paint anything that goes outside as I work on the mantra that paint is for decoration and not for protection. As wood both breaths and moves eventually water will find it's way under the skin of any paint and cause problems.
I prefer to use a spirit based protection such as Cuprinol. It soaks into the wood without trapping moisture. It is also a doddle to reapply, just brush off the dust and slop some more on.
 
I use Cuprinol as a preservative for bare wood.
Before installation, I gave my outside wood a good soaking in it before applying the Sikkens base coat (HLS Plus). I then followed with two top coats of Filter 7 Plus when it was in situ.
The finish is supposed to be breathable (microporous) and have good UV resistance. Very easy to apply subsequent coats as a quick wipe and a light sand is all that is required.

Rod
 
I have had a some new fence panels put up and am in the process of replacing the 60 odd feet of old panels I have. I have previously used various water based paints which I've not been happy with and was going to use something like Cuprnol Fence and Shed Preserver in a wood colour. HOWEVER they now apparently have discontinued this product and it has been replaced with on called Shed and Fence Protector which has no preserving qualities whatever and is basically a colorant. I've been told they still do "clear" Shed and Fence Preserver though and if I wanted a different wood colour would then have to over paint with the Protector which doubles the cost!!

Has anyone got the low down on this situation and if the above is fact correct can you recommend some transparent wood colour preservative ?

Is the Ronseal Shed and Fence Preserver actually a preserver?

Cheers
 
Thats worrying Tes. I suspect that the Ronseal stuff is also suffering from a reduction in VOCs. I am tempted to get som ef this next time I have room in the car. Bird Brand Creosote. Sadly for you it is anything but transparent.
 
I guess your dilemma explains why we haven't got any fences - preferring natural hedges from yew, laurel and other broadleaf species.
 
No fences either but a large double gate, single gate and a two sides of a barn need looking after all to frequently.
 
I used some Flag brand clear wood preserver which I spray applied to my shed some years ago. The shed is still sound so it appears to work. Toolstation used to sell it but I can't see it there now. Both Toolstation and Screwfix do still have clear wood preserver in 5l cans - some as wood preserver and some as clear decking protector. One of them might be worth a try if you can't find anything else.
 
Andyp":2fluhbb0 said:
Thats worrying Tes. I suspect that the Ronseal stuff is also suffering from a reduction in VOCs. I am tempted to get som ef this next time I have room in the car. Bird Brand Creosote. Sadly for you it is anything but transparent.
Click to expand...

Another thumbs up for that brand of "full lead" creosote. Marvellous stuff. My workshop cladding is saturated with it. Almost 1 litre per square metre I reckon and no sign of rot in over 10 years. I just kept spraying until it would take up no more/I got bored and move to the next patch. Clears the nostrils too!

Bob
 
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