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Reaching the limit of diameter

Dr.Al

Old Oak
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Dursley, Gloucestershire
Name
Al
After all the experimentation with the duplicator, I wanted to get back to more conventional turning for a little bit longer before I hang the lathe from the ceiling again.

I recently bought a couple of big bowl blanks. One of them is destined to be a new fruit bowl and is big, both in diameter and thickness. Turning a bowl of that diameter is going to be a bit challenging, so I thought I'd try with the slightly thinner one first (for which I have no particular target in mind).

It started off looking like this:

600_2026-02-08-01-big-brown-oak-blank.jpg

If you're eyesight is good enough, you'll have figured out it's Brown Oak and 280 mm diameter, 50 mm thick. If you look closely at the left-hand edge, you'll see the wax has been removed a bit - that's where I clearly didn't get the face plate quite central and had to hand plane a little off to get it to rotate without hitting the bed. The theoretical maximum diameter for my lathe is 281.4 mm, but I think we can realistically call it 280 mm max.

Turning the outside shape was quite straightforward and, with all the practice I had last year, I didn't have too much problem turning the inside either. With that all done, it looked like this:

600_2026-02-08-02-finished-turning-inside.jpg

So far, so straightforward. However, in order to maximise the thickness of the part, I'd hot-melt glued a bit of Sweet Chestnut on the bottom and that's what was held in the chuck:

600_2026-02-08-03-the-challenge.jpg

That needed to be removed and there was zero chance that I'd get this in the Cole Jaws so a different approach had to be used. I did wonder about just soaking it in Isopropyl Alcohol (which will defeat a hot melt joint), but getting enough into the right places struck me as next to impossible without removing most of the Sweet Chestnut anyway, so I decided to remove as much as possible on the lathe.

In November I went along to a meeting of Gloucestershire Association of Woodturners and the demonstrator there handed out some cubes of foam. The foam came from the company for which he worked and is typically used for insulating sea kayaks if memory serves me correctly. After cutting it to size to fit the kayaks they have a lot of off-cuts and he'd brought along a box full for anyone who wanted a block to take away.

I cut the block in half and used Gorilla Glue to stick it to a bit of oak. Once the glue had been left to set, I skimmed the outside round, leaving a slightly rough finish, but it's foam, so that doesn't really matter.

600_2026-02-08-04-rubbery-stuff.jpg

One of the rarely but occasionally handy accessories I've got for my lathe is a live centre with an M33 thread on the end. When I'd removed the bowl from the lathe after doing most of the turning, I'd left it in the chuck and just removed the whole lot. I mounted the chuck on the M33 live centre and put that in the tailstock. I could then push the tailstock up against the foam block, compressing it rather a lot:

600_2026-02-08-05-compressed-rubber.jpg

The foam block provides the transfer of the motive force, the chuck in the live centre keeps everything concentric, at least until I cut all the way through the Sweet Chestnut block at which point I would expect the bowl to go flying across the workshop!

I took it quite gently, stopping every now and again to see what it was looking like:

600_2026-02-08-06-gradually-removing.jpg

I'd mostly finished the bottom surface before gluing the Sweet Chestnut on, so in an ideal world I'd just remove the Chestnut and glue and leave an immaculate surface, but I'm not that good at turning! Has anyone on here ever tried turning a bowl with a sacrificial base held on with a couple of layers of masking tape and some superglue? It'd be quite easy to get off of course, but I'm a bit nervous about whether it'd hold well enough for hollowing out the inside of the bowl.

A bit more progress - you can see that a downside of this holding method (rather than just using a live centre into a centre dot) is that the chuck stops the rest from getting close, although it didn't seem to be too much of an issue:

600_2026-02-08-07-getting-closer.jpg

This is the point that I decided to stop:

600_2026-02-08-08-time-to-stop.jpg

I took it off the lathe and used a Dozuki to saw off most of the sacrificial block, leaving this much:

600_2026-02-08-09-sawn-off.jpg

Most of that got removed with the 80 grit sanding disc on the lathe spindle (visible in the background of the photo). The last bit got removed with a random orbital sander, using a bit of plywood as a temporary work surface:

600_2026-02-08-10-all-sanded.jpg

I've found my Mike's Magic Mix now so I used that for the finish. It's had one coat so far:

600_2026-02-08-11-finished.jpg

Side view:

600_2026-02-08-12-side-view.jpg

I found the process of turning away the sacrificial piece without the Cole Jaws a bit daunting but it worked quite well all things considered. Perhaps next weekend I'll psyche myself up to turning the big Ash blank into a fruit bowl.
 
Hot glue is incredible stuff but I'd never use it for this sort of spinning application. Instead I use a bit of paper sandwiched between the sacrificial chunk what goes in the chuck and the bowl; simply glue with your fave PVA, clamp and leave overnight to fully cure (slightly important!!) and you're ready to go in the morning. On the face of it, you might think that a paper bond will fail but it will 100% hold for turning on the lathe. To remove, lock the headstock with the job still in the chuck, hold the bowl firmly and just twist or use a chisel to act as a wedge on the glue line. It'll come away easy peasy and will leave next to nothing to clean up in the Cole Jaws; try it and see - Rob
 
The ends justify the means Al, nice looking bowl.

I’ve often read but have yet to try Rob’s paper and PVA technique. Is the type of paper important?
 
Hot glue is incredible stuff but I'd never use it for this sort of spinning application.

I'm curious, why would you never use it? Just because of the hassle of turning it away? I'm using it based on a recommendation from our resident turning expert, @CHJ. It certainly seems to hold very well.

It does have the enormous (in my opinion) advantage over paper and PVA that you can turn the bowl in one "sitting". It's quite common that I have an afternoon in the workshop and then the next one will be a week later, so anywhere I can avoid leaving things overnight is a big win from my point of view.

Taking this brown oak bowl as an example, I turned it in its entirety and applied the first coat of finish in an hour or two yesterday afternoon. I'll probably be able to spare 5-10 minutes tonight to add another coat of oil, but if I'd used PVA then I'd be turning the inside on Friday.
 
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I'm curious, why would you never use it? Just because of the hassle of turning it away? I'm using it based on a recommendation from our resident turning expert, @CHJ. It certainly seems to hold very well.

It does have the enormous (in my opinion) advantage over paper and PVA that you can turn the bowl in one "sitting". It's quite common that I have an afternoon in the workshop and then the next one will be a week later, so anywhere I can avoid leaving things overnight is a big win from my point of view.

Taking this brown oak bowl as an example, I turned it in its entirety and applied the first coat of finish in an hour or two yesterday afternoon. I'll probably be able to spare 5-10 minutes tonight to add another coat of oil, but if I'd used PVA then I'd be turning the inside on Friday.
Agreed yes, you can turn the bowl in one 'sitting' but quite often, I don't...I come back to it over an extended period when I feel the urge to do a bit more on 'the Dark Side'. I use hot melt glue for quite a lot of stuff as, for example, it'll stick polythene to polythene where other adhesives won't but the thing I don't like is that it has a 'thickness' for this turning application.

The other, and highly important factor is that being a parsimonious soul, the paper and glue method means that the sacrificial bit doesn't get destroyed and can be used over and over again :cool: - Rob

@AndyP - the paper is vital as it allows the glue bond to be easily broken as indicated above. Without the paper, the joint is permanent and you'd need to turn off the sacrificial chunk to release the bowl.
 
Back in the 60s at school, me and the WW teacher always used the paper method, no problems at all, and we turned quite a few items and I made quite a bit of pocket money. Anyway, the paper we used I think was known as cartridge paper, the sort of thickish paper you had in your art book, if that makes any sense.
 
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