• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Redwood cupboard

Doug

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A lady I’ve done work for for a few years ask if I could make a cupboard to cover her electric meter, the original cupboard had to be removed when a stair lift was fitted recently & the hallway wasn’t large enough to accommodate the original cupboard & the lift seat.
Her choice of timber was pine which suited me as I’ve quite a few off cuts of 6” & 7” x 2 1/2” sawn redwood, so after some band sawing & planing the book matched panels were dominoed

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Then glued up

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All that then needed doing then was a good sanding

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The doors were going to be panelled as I had some 10mm thick pine veneered MDF left over from a previous job so grooves were cut a fraction over 10mm wide & 21mm deep at the spindle moulder

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The quickest way I’ve found of making shaker style door rails is once cut to length I cut the stub tenons using the same groover cutter set up placing the stiles on a piece of the panelling with a break out block behind & simply running them through.

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This leaves minimal clean up with hand tools to get snug fitting joints in minutes, once done the panels were cut to size & the doors glued up, the cupboard was simply dominoed & glued together once the parts had been cut to size on the chop saw.

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A rebate was cut again at the spindle moulder on the meeting stiles after which the doors were hand planed to a nice fit in the opening

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The hinges were let in using the trim router, I don’t bother with a jig simply knife round the hinge & free hand the waste out tidying up with a chisel, I find it helps to clamp both doors together in the vice as it gives more bearing for the router base

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The finished cupboard

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Handles have yet to be decided, I’m hoping to do a test fit tomorrow before applying finish in the workshop, so far I’ve had 7 hours on this which I’m pleased with as for once it means I’m within my estimate.
 
Good solid work. When you said you put the two doors together to cut the hinges out I thought “Oh yes that makes sense” - having a picture in my mind of the two doors together the other way so that the cutouts could be done in one go. So interesting that you did it that way.
It’s very fulfilling to be able to knock out a piece of work so successfully and quickly. Ian
 
Very nice Doug.

That trick with the off-cut of panelling under the wotk on the spindle moulder.........does that mean your timber finished at just over 30mm thick?

Was the MDF veneered on both sides?
 
Thanks for the comments.

Cabinetman":82w7mb2y said:
Good solid work. When you said you put the two doors together to cut the hinges out I thought “Oh yes that makes sense” - having a picture in my mind of the two doors together the other way so that the cutouts could be done in one go. So interesting that you did it that way.

I would have done it the way you thought Ian if I had the plunge base for the little trim router but only having the fixed base meant I had to have a lead in.






Mike G":82w7mb2y said:
That trick with the off-cut of panelling under the wotk on the spindle moulder.........does that mean your timber finished at just over 30mm thick?

Was the MDF veneered on both sides?

The timber was 21mm thick Mike, the groover cuts the part of the panel that passes underneath it, it shows as raw MDF in the photo, as long as the grooves in the stiles & rails are central which was achieved by running one piece though the groover then flipping it over & running the opposite face through then the tenon will be very accurate, usually so tight it needs easing slightly but that’s not such a bad thing.

The MDF was veneered both sides I bought half a dozen sheets a few years back for 11 internal doors I made.

Nipped & did a test fit this morning as expected in such an old house the wall & floor were a good way out so a little scribing to do but it covers everything just :?

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The lady was happy which is the main thing, just got to get it oiled & find a bit of matching dado rail now

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