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Reference works to EPDM dressing. Help, didn't see this one coming....

toolsntat

Nordic Pine
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Location
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Name
Andy
EDIT I'm now using Epdm....
Particularly a sunken/inverted dormer type of arrangement with brickwork on one side and timber sheathing on the other.
It is an odd little (yeah, right :LOL:) job with only 14" between the two.
I have had to drop the roof line to accommodate a bodge from when this particular roof or window was added and subsequently cut across the corner of the window. Not a very cleaver execution any which way 😞
Cheers, Andy
20241024_171256.jpg20241024_112253.jpgWhatsApp Image 2025-04-04 at 23.00.48_01ae6e70.jpg
 
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I've had a bit of a look but not come up with much. There's this, a recent US publication where Google Books has quite an extensive preview. Scroll down further for more flashing details, in case any of them is relevant.


I also found this, which is more detailed than others but doesn't at first glance have anything exactly like your problem:


or this from the 1950s


There were also a few bits in McKay, Building Construction Volume 3, suggesting that there's more on lead in Volume 4 - maybe the sort of book you would have?
 
I've had a bit of a look but not come up with much. There's this, a recent US publication where Google Books has quite an extensive preview. Scroll down further for more flashing details, in case any of them is relevant.


I also found this, which is more detailed than others but doesn't at first glance have anything exactly like your problem:


or this from the 1950s


There were also a few bits in McKay, Building Construction Volume 3, suggesting that there's more on lead in Volume 4 - maybe the sort of book you would have?
Some great stuff in there Andy and thanks for taking a look, embarrassed to say I should have checked with the ARCHIVE myself.
McKay ? I think I need to consolidate my book collection as that rings a bell but no idea where it is...
Cheers, Andy
 
Okay, just an update to say that following yesterday's site visit the client is not particular about it having to be lead and would like it felted to keep the cost down. Easier but not so much of a challenge for me which I was looking forward to.
I will still use the valuable information provided to perform the step flashing though, so thanks for the information.
Cheers, Andy
 
Okay, just an update to say that following yesterday's site visit the client is not particular about it having to be lead and would like it felted to keep the cost down. Easier but not so much of a challenge for me which I was looking forward to.
I will still use the valuable information provided to perform the step flashing though, so thanks for the information.
Cheers, Andy
At least persuade him to use EPDM. Felt is a disaster waiting to happen.
 
This is a bit of a challenge now as I need to turn out the EPDM onto the tiles below from the inverted dormer cheek.
The rest of the work should be fairly easy after sorting out this problem.....
Any ideas please as the rubber won't give enough to get it flat?
Cheers, Andy 20250409_183447.jpg20250409_182452.jpg20250409_182436.jpg
 
Based purely on my experience of watching a neighbour's kitchen extension rebuild... you can cut, fold and glue the corners, as you would when wrapping a parcel. But there must be more to it than that. I expect the manufacturers publish guides and videos?
 
Yes, thank you Andy, there's various options and instructions out there but I've yet to find this particular circumstance.
It's probably best described as a vertical cheek to tiled roof outfall.
The phrase hopper has just popped in my head?
This is the reverse of any upstand corner as the material needs to stretch to go flat.
In lead (now I wish) you would dress it out, beating it thinner as you go.
Cheers, Andy
 
They sell small patches of a highly stretchable "patch" material for doing external corners. It doesn't spring back, and is designed to do the external corners of upstands on a flat roof in one piece. I would cut and stick the junction using this stuff. Sorry, I'm not sure what it's called, and I don't have a photo.
 
They sell small patches of a highly stretchable "patch" material for doing external corners. It doesn't spring back, and is designed to do the external corners of upstands on a flat roof in one piece. I would cut and stick the junction using this stuff. Sorry, I'm not sure what it's called, and I don't have a photo.
Ah, stretchable patch sounds like a plausible option Mike, I'll look into it.
Cheers, Andy
 
This was my EPDM adventure for my workshop roof.


I used the flexible flashing material with no problem so feel free to skip forward to that. You might need the tip I picked up about internal corner fixing too using the flashing material. All still in perfect condition just as I left it then - nothing has moved or come unstuck.
 
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