One of my chisels has developed a split in the handle. It looks like the handle has just dried out, although that is odd after decades with no problem. I think the handle is made of boxwood but I am no expert. The chisel is marked "Stormont". I don't recall how I came by it but it is a decent chisel so I don't want the handle to deteriorate further if I can avoid it. My question is how to treat it? My first thought is to just rub some wood glue into the split, but is there a better option?
Here are photos of the split and the end of the chisel:
View attachment 28500View attachment 28499
Yes, certainly Boxwood.
I have found that many of my better UK chisels (e.g. Marples) are handled with boxwood made from smaller pieces of timber, perhaps
branches (so to speak), the pith included, and they tend towards cracking. I cannot be sure if yours has the pith from the photograph. Something to consider.
As to the repair, I usually use tinted epoxy in this setting, then re-mount the handle on the lathe to clean it up a bit, although you could approach it by hand. Glue and sawdust is an option, but may not be as durable, especially if a mallet is used, and IMO is not as aesthetically pleasing.
If remounting on the lathe, the difficulty comes when you attempt to get the handle running true to its axis, especially if attempted between two centers. If you fail to remount it on the lathe properly, you may ruin the handle in the attempt to remove the epoxy and refinish the handle.
My method is to mount the tang hole in a larger live center, and mount the opposite end on a leather-faced drive "center".
Turning at slow speed, with the handle set
relatively loosely, you can adjust the handle until it runs true, then tighten it as much as feasible without cracking the ferrule end.
I apply the back of a gouge to the handle gently to nudge it into concentricity, levering with the tool rest. In doing this, you must stop immediately when it runs true. If you go past concentricity, the handle will turn wildly or be ejected from the centers.
All machinists are familiar with this concept from the use of edge-finders.
See below:
The leather pad is made from an engine tappet to which leather had been affixed with contact cement.
The handle below is the one on top in the first photograph. I also use an extended live center to mount the ferrule.
You can, in this manner, fit the ferrule as you are tuning the work at hand:
I have turned a few handles using this method to affix the ferrule snugly.
