• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Robert Scaife. Swanfield Tool Works. Colne

Boringgeoff

Seedling
Joined
Nov 22, 2021
Messages
45
Reaction score
26
Hi all,
I just picked up this chain drill, branded "Robert Scaife. Maker - Colne." This is the first British made chain drill I've seen, all my others are made in USA. For those of you whose education was sadly lacking I'll explain the workings of this tool. The chuck end will hold a 1/2inch shank drill bit which is locked in by the grub screw visible in the lower left of the chuck. The tapered tang on the other end of the tool is gripped in the chuck of a brace or a breast drill. The chain is wrapped around the workpiece and tightened by turning the knurled hand wheel. Now the operator can start cranking the brace or drill to start the drilling process. This is where the simplicity of this tool comes to life, the main-shaft through the tool transmits the rotary action from the brace to the bit without affecting the tension on the chain, but tightening the thumb screw sticking out at right-angles from the hand wheel changes the situation. The hole that locates the thumbscrew goes right the way through the hand wheel and has at its bottom a brass friction plug, therefore tightening the thumbscrew presses the plug against the main-shaft which exerts friction on the shaft causing the chain holder to turn and tighten the chain. The degree of friction can be raised or lowered to suit the speed of drilling and the amount of effort required to crank the brace or drill.
Graces Guide tells us that Robert Scaife was in business in 1906 -07, 1922 and 1950. A mining drill manufacturer, that's all I've got, if anyone can add to this I'll be very appreciative.
Cheers,
Geoff.
 

Attachments

  • IMGP1362.png
    IMGP1362.png
    813.5 KB · Views: 911
I looked in the very few catalogues I have that might list it. The 1935 Buck and Hickman has this entry for four sizes of the same thing from Millers Falls in the USA. I'd guess that the UK maker was copying their design after the rights expired, maybe at a time when dollars were expensive or trade was restricted. You could probably find those in Millers Falls catalogues online.

IMG_20220330_105253_DRO.jpg

They'd disappeared from later catalogues. By 1953 (my next B&H) electric drills were on the rise.

Anyone over a certain age will recognise the chain on your drill immediately - pulling on it was something familiar to everyone, every day!

And thanks for describing how it works, there's often more to these simple looking tools than is immediately obvious.
 
Nope.
Studied the pictures, read both the explanations. Not the faintest idea how this works. :eusa-whistle:
 
Bob, if I've understood it right, the mechanism is similar to what's on my hand cranked bench drill. Think of it as a clutch. If the drill bit is making progress ok, some of the rotation goes to a threaded part, which screws down and advances it into the work. If it's not making much progress (eg because the workpiece is very hard) the clutch slips, so there's less rotation on the threaded part, and less advancement.
It's adjustable so the user can find the most productive sweet spot.

Didn't you ever need this sort of kit to tap into gas mains, spark-free?
 
My gas mains work was in the 60's, Thats nineteen sixties. Not eighteen sixties, thank you very much. :lol:
I never saw anyone broaching a live main. It was always cut off at both ends at the valves, flared off, and then replaced with new.
One of those tools I am very thankful I never needed
 
You've described its working very well, thanks Andy. Quite a few American outfits made them, some quite simple in operation others excessively complex. This one of Robert Scaife is the first British one I've seen, I purchased it from America.
Cheers,
Geoff.
 
Back
Top