Salvageable?

[Stuart]

I know there will be some ‘told you so’ but I’m wondering if this veneered lid is considered salvageable by those who know about veneering?




‘Base’ is just over 6mm oak and the veneer ranges between 2.5 & 3.5mm. I was hoping that solid wood would obviate the need for balancing (it’s worked in the past with similar dimensions) but clearly not this time.

The curve is about 2mm and fairly easily flattened with some pressure. The plan was for it to be rebated into the sides so there would be a reasonably rigid fixing all round if I proceed.

Alternatively, I can try leaving it clamped or weighted as I’m going to be away for a week anyway.

I do have enough veneer for another but unless the lid is quite a lot thicker I would expect the same problem.

Thoughts appreciated.

 

[RogerS]

One school of thought might be that you were lucky on all those previous occasions!

You have nothing to lose in applying pressure against the curve but don't stop at flat, go on past that. Leave it while you're away.

 

[AJB Temple]

I am not advocating this as I am not an expert, but an old cabinet maker / finisher who I have done some work with on a little bit of historic property stuff, has shown me in the past how he deals with rippled veneered panels that have pulled away at the edges. He removes the panel and then steams it on both sides - really soaking wet steamed. Then the panel goes between two sheets of blotting paper and into a big cast iron bookbinding press where it is flattened under significant pressure for several days. This could be simulated with heavy weights.

He then refinishes as necessary (he's an expert at that. He's 80 odd so has a bit of experience).

 

[Woodbloke]

One school of thought might be that you were lucky on all those previous occasions!

You have nothing to lose in applying pressure against the curve but don't stop at flat, go on past that. Leave it while you're away.

I'd be inclined to agree. One way of flattening buckled, burry veneers is to apply a goodly spray of a glycerine/water mixture onto both sides of the veneer and then clamp between flat boards for 48hrs (or longer) using paper each side to absorb the liquid as it dries. An ideal paper to use is thick, white, lining paper for walls; inexpensive and available from all the sheds off the roll. Good for 'shop working drawings as well - Rob