Shaker oval boxes

[PAC1]

As part of my plans to do small manageable projects whilst I recover are Shaker oval boxes. So I made some patterns and then had a go:

 

[PAC1]

What I have learned is that the sides need to be thinner and I need to wrap the side tighter around the former. I also need smaller brass tacks.

 

[AndyT]

You make it look easy!

How did you prepare the thin strips?

 

[PAC1]

The strips were band sawn to as thin as I could get them, thicknessed to as thin as I dared (tear out);and then drum sanded to 1/16th. I need to get that down by 25 to 30% as they are too thick to bend properly even with a bit of steam.
I need to get the set up right on my band saw I could then skip the thicknessing. I am probably using too big a blade which I cannot tension enough. I will try a 3 tooth 1/2” blade next time.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Can you get a 1tpi blade for your saw? 1/2" sounds about right, but I'd say that 3tpi is bit on the fine side for deep ripping., or re-sawing.
I dhould add that I've never sliced a veneer thinner than about 3mm, so you can take it with a pinch of salt if you wish!
S
PSI hope it contributes to your rehab.

 

[Eric the Viking]

I love the birdseyes, and the copper pins, too (proper job!). I'm surprised that 1/8" is too thick for steaming, as I'm fairly sure the ones I've seen were close to that -- but they had plain grain though.

 

[AndyP]

What is the wood. It looks as if it has been hit all over with a punch.

 

[PAC1]

Can you get a 1tpi blade for your saw? 1/2" sounds about right, but I'd say that 3tpi is bit on the fine side for deep ripping., or re-sawing.
I dhould add that I've never sliced a veneer thinner than about 3mm, so you can take it with a pinch of salt if you wish!
S
PSI hope it contributes to your rehab.

Steve, a consistent 3mm would be fantastic at the moment. The saw is capable of it but I need to get the set up right. I am getting close but no cigar. I will look for even less teeth. Once I get a straight reliable cut I can reduce the thickness.

 

[PAC1]

I love the birdseyes, and the copper pins, too (proper job!). I'm surprised that 1/8" is too thick for steaming, as I'm fairly sure the ones I've seen were close to that -- but they had plain grain though.

The boxes are very small 7” on the long axis. Everything I read said 1/16th but it is too thick.
The dots you can see are dowels not pins.

 

[PAC1]

What is the wood. It looks as if it has been hit all over with a punch.

Birdseye maple. It looks great in real life.

 

[Steve Maskery]

You could ask Ian John at Tuffsaws what blade he would recommend. He is brill. As I understand it, one should aim for as few teeth as possible (i.e. the biggest gullets you can find to carry away all that sawdust) whilst maintaining at least 3 teeth in the wood at any one time, (to reduce chatter).
It is years since I bandsawed anything resembling a veneer, but IIRC I found that a single-point fence helped a lot to keep things even.
S
PS Love the project.

 

[Eric the Viking]

The dots you can see are dowels not pins.

Ah. On an original Shaker box it would probably have been copper pins, with a stapled wrap (copper stitch) for the side(s) ring. I have a book somewhere on them, as it's a thing I've always wanted to try.

Regarding steaming, have a look at Dave Engel's channel - he steams huge pieces for 'reproduction' coach building (carriage building), with some success. Presently he's been doing complex bends for the sides of Yosemite tourist coaches: https://www.youtube.com/@EngelsCoachShop
I think he's got a playlist of his steam bending episodes (there are many). He demonstrates pretty consistent success where many would simply say, 'that's impossible'.

 

[Malc2098]

It seems to me that bending timber of this size is more akin to bending timber for instruments. John at Tuffsaws recommended a Fastcut blade for my machine, Laguna 14/12, to resaw for my instrument sides and backs. The blade contains a skip tooth and this aids the dust removal.

I resaw to about 4~5mm and then take the thickness down on the drum sander at 80 grit, to about 1.5~2mm. I then laminate those sides with a neutral veneer like Swiss Pear for strength and rigidity. Finer sanding is done when the instrument 'box' is completed.

I always have to use steam to bend to the timber to the instrument sides' radii. I prefer the bending iron for the smaller radii of the ukulele and the bending machine with the heating mat for the larger radii of guitars.

 

[PAC1]

I reduced the bands to a heavy 3/64ths (1.2mm) much better. Maybe too thin as they bent very easily
However my new copper nails might not be copper! When I was hammering them in they were not mushrooming like copper should but then as the wood started to dry... I doubt that is going to come out.

 

[AndyT]

Copper plated steel? How annoying!
Would it be feasible to use little bits of thick copper wire to make your own rivets?

 

[PAC1]

It may be my hammer. I cleaned as I have over the years. A quick rub on some sandpaper. It might be very fine dust from that.

 

[NickM]

Are the pins attracted to a magnet?

 

[PAC1]

Are the pins attracted to a magnet?

Sadly yes.
I have found a trusted supplier and properly cleaned my hammer so hopefully next week we can progress.
The mark is sanding off but a pita