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Sharpening a kitchen knife

RogerS

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For ages my Go-To to sharpen the knife was a diamond-plate. This has got worn down and I stumbled across a Two Cherries steel. So I started using it but here's the thing, for which I have no explanation.

With the diamond plate I'd get a good edge and that would last a while. But using the steel, the edge needs tittyfing again the next day.
 
European style kitchen knives are much softer steel than woodworking tools or Japanese knives - they're designed so that instead of taking tiny chips out of it, the edge will roll over in places first. What a traditional (smooth) steel does is unroll it and straighten out the edge; it doesn't grind a new one as a sharpening stone does. Once you've created a good edge on the stones, using the steel every day will maintain that edge and make it last much longer between sharpenings, but if it's started to chip and dull then the steel won't be enough to bring it back.

There are also, these days, things sold as steels which are actually abrasive rods. Those will grind a new micro-bevel, just less effectively than a stone because they're typically used just for a few swipes and at a less consistent angle.
 
I agree with Stephen. And I'm obsessed with Japanese kitchen knives.....
 
The ikea ceramic steel will remove a small amount of steel from your blades, but I usually use my two cherries steel or a diamond knife sharpener for the knives my wife uses.

Pete
 
You presumably find that system good Rob? I heard there are fakes about. I go through quality phases with sharpening kitchen knives. Right now I am in a "useless" at it phase where I just can't get some knives properly sharp on my waterstones. The single bevel hand made stuff is totally fine, but the double bevel knives including the German ones are as blunt as a tea towel in comparison. I know it's me being cack handed and that in some cases I need to thin behind the edge.

Edit: just looked up the Horl product. Very expensive now, especially with the finer grits pack. Review of Horl 2 and upgrade kit on YT from Chef Panko is quite good but he reckons if you are used to water stones then it confers no advantage. I better get my act together. Will go and make a start on thinning one out right now!
 
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You presumably find that system good Rob? I heard there are fakes about. I go through quality phases with sharpening kitchen knives. Right now I am in a "useless" at it phase where I just can't get some knives properly sharp on my waterstones. The single bevel hand made stuff is totally fine, but the double bevel knives including the German ones are as blunt as a tea towel in comparison. I know it's me being cack handed and that in some cases I need to thin behind the edge.

Edit: just looked up the Horl product. Very expensive now, especially with the finer grits pack. Review of Horl 2 and upgrade kit on YT from Chef Panko is quite good but he reckons if you are used to water stones then it confers no advantage. I better get my act together. Will go and make a start on thinning one out right now!
Lots of knock offs around Adrian but I have the genuine Horl Pro (the one with the gearing) and all the grit wheels, two of which I had to order from Germany. I tried honing my knives freehand on a waterstone but the edges were nfg, so SWIMBO treated me - Rob
 
Good info.

I just spent an hour thinning one of my oldest J knives (not great steel but I was naive then) which has a thick spine and has been used for 25 years without being thinned. 300 grit J soaker.

I will be in Germany soon and will have a look for the Horl - might get FIL on the case as he is great with deals.
 
I will be in Germany soon and will have a look for the Horl - might get FIL on the case as he is great with deals.
I looked for ages to buy the Horl in the UK a 'deal'...completely dry hole, so I had to pay the full price. You might have better luck in Germany - Rob
 
A ceramic hone in a pinch will keep an edge going but resharpening with an abrasive becomes beneficial.

I always think worth learning to do with stones, especially for anyone vaguely handy.

I’ve re sharpened friends knives who’ve used various sharpening gadgets and they’ve often got a lot of fatigued steel at the edge, have turned into weird profiles reducing board contact, or are so thick behind the edge that even if sharp won’t cut well.

Always fixable though
 
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