Track saw

[MY63]

You may remember I recently broke my compound mitre saw and asked advice re replacement.
I decided to think about it for a little while and consider other options I have read a lot and watched various you tube videos and found a link here to Peter Miilard's series on track saws.
It looks to me like a track saw is somewhere between a table saw and a mitre saw or at least what I would use them for.
In my immediate future I will be cutting up 2440mm x 1220mm sheets of OSB3 for my roof and various sheets of plywood for the shelving etc inside.
My Local B &Q is selling off a Mac Allister for £70
https://www.diy.com/departments/mac-all ... 075_BQ.prd
Which would be worth it just to cut up these large sheets.
There does not seem to be anything in the middle ground price wise they are either around £100 or over £300 .
On the other hand when looking for a band saw I was advised to look for a second hand one and although it is not set up yet I am happy with it.

I worry that as these are portable they may have been abused or stolen so if anyone knows of a gently used good quality track saw please let me know.

 

[Malc2098]

Morning Michael,

I got the Parkside (aldidl) tracksaw for the few times that I use it and I'm very pleased with it's performance for its price which was about the same as you quote. I wished I had it when I was sheathing, clamping a straight edge for my old circular saw was never accurate outside.

Recently, I helped a friend fit a sink into a worktop. The tracksaw did (w)hole the job brilliantly.

I doesn't come out often, but when it it does, it's just the job.

BTW, when you set the bandsaw up, email TuffSaws and let him know what you will be using it for, and he will recommend which blades to have. I've just upgraded all my blades to his, and they are just no comparison, they are that good.

 

[Woodster]

I’ve heard good things said of Aldi or Lidl track saws, the only negative being the length of the track supplied. I think someone found another, longer track that fitted the saw but I can’t remember the details.

 

[Robert]

My recent track saw purchase is here - viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3851

I managed for a long time without one. with a normal hand held circular saw it is quite possible to cut up sheets pretty accurately. You can make up a saw guide or just use the edge of one sheet as it lays on top of the one you want to cut. just offset it by the distance from the edge of the saws baseplate to the blade.

 

[selectortone]

I bought a Makita track saw a few years ago after watching several favourable youtube videos. Got it from D&M Tools when they were having a sale. I used it to cut up the 18mm ply boards I used to build the benches in my garage when I was setting up my wood turning mancave. After many, MANY years of faffing about with skilsaws and straightedges (we used to build custom speaker cabs for guitar and PA at one music shop where I worked) it was so much easier and so accurate.

I have a nice big bandsaw and a table saw, but for cutting up large sheets it is the business.

 

[Woodster]

A guy at work used a track saw quite a bit and the cord seemed to be a real PITA so I’m guessing the battery saws are really handy?

 

[9fingers]

I think that when it comes to portable power tools, buying used can be risky unless you know the owner and its history.
This contrast with fixed machinery where usually older machines are better built than modern ones.

My only comment about Macalister is that they are badge engineered for B&Q who rarely support them once the model on the shelf changes.
Usually these are made by GMC in the far east and sometimes you might get some spares via them if you are lucky.
The quality is not brilliant but for a circular saw there is not much that a maker has to get right or that you cannot fix. Fit a decent make of blade, make sure the riving knife is the correct size and position and that the blade is parallel to the the base/track.
Take it steady dont overload the motor because you are not likely to be able to buy a new armature. Once you have let the special far eastern brand smoke out. the tool is only fit for the bin.

Caveat emptor

Bob

 

[selectortone]

A guy at work used a track saw quite a bit and the cord seemed to be a real PITA so I’m guessing the battery saws are really handy?

Never had a problem with mine - just threw it over my shoulder. (the cord, not the saw! :mrgreen: )

 

[will1983]

I'm a recent track saw convert, bought the makita corded model, fitted a Freud blade and it's just awesome.
Really accurate, quick to set up and the makita model comes in a systainer 4.

I almost always connect mine to the shop vacuum so the cord doesn't bother me, its always the vacuum hose that gets snagged not the cord.

Don't mess about with the cheap ones, buy a decent one, you'll appreciate it in the future.

 

[MY63]

Malcolm I have my Tuff saw blades ready to be fitted along with a new brush and tensioning screw but I cant get to the saw as the timber for the roof is in the way.

Thanks Robert I read your post the other day when I was reading about track saws. My hands are not very good so I think the track saw will be a great help to me.

Sector one if money was not an issue or I was going to be using it every day then Makita of Festool would be an easy choice.

Woodster I have a battery circular saw but it does not really have enough power for sheet materials.

9fingers Thanks Bob it was your post that got me looking for a used bandsaw I agree portable tools can be hammered on site etc. I am not 100% sure I know what a riving knife is B & Q are also selling off a Sheppach saw that has a retractable riving knife for £80 which it describes as a 3 use saw, circular saw plunge saw and track saw which I thought was odd as I assumed they could all do that.




I don't think I ever cut a compound mitre with my CMS so why buy another when the track saw would do what I need and more

 

[9fingers]

9fingers Thanks Bob it was your post that got me looking for a used bandsaw I agree portable tools can be hammered on site etc. I am not 100% sure I know what a riving knife is B & Q are also selling off a Sheppach saw that has a retractable riving knife for £80 which it describes as a 3 use saw, circular saw plunge saw and track saw which I thought was odd as I assumed they could all do that.

A riving knife is on the outfeed side of the blade and stops and tendency for the wood to spring close after the cut and grab the blade. It must be central with respect to the blade, and thicker than the body of the saw blade plate but narrower than the kerf of the saw.
Retractable knife is nice if you are trenching with the saw as distinct from cutting all the way through.

All circular saws will cut, some will follow a track, some not. Some are designed to plunge, others not. All three is very handy and versatile. The Scheppach will be far better supported than the Macalister interms of spares and track. For breaking down 8 x4 sheet you will possibly need a 2.5m piece of track. I doubt that will be included for the £80. Full length tracks are not essential as you can use the edge of another board as a guide but as others have said, once you have used a track saw you won't want to be messing with improvised guides. That said I only have a old bosch track guided saw and a short piece of track but I do have a big table saw for long work.

Bob

 

[MY63]

Thanks Bob as ever advice is appreciated as they were clearance offers I decided to go and have a look.
They only had 2 of the Scheppach one looked to be in a distressed state so I bought the other one.
It has two 700mm tracks with joining kit I may look at buying the longer tracks at some point.
Thanks to everyone who contributed.

 

[RogerS]

Michael, if I may, you seem to be a little confused about the relative merits/demerits of the various saws ....partly because you thought that a track saw was like a mitre saw.

Others feel free to join in but for my money...it's as follows.

Rule 1 - it depends on what size stuff you are wanting to cut

Rule 2 - are you always cutting things at right-angles.

Rule 1 - 8 x 4 sheet material. Impossible on a bandsaw. Impossible on a mitre saw. Difficult on a table-saw unless (a) you have muscles like Arnold and (b) you have the extension thingy out the side to support the 8 x 4 sheet. For my money, a tracksaw and a sheet of Kingspan (other manufacturers are available) on the floor is the way to go.
Rule 1 (a) If your final sheet sizes are more manageable (after being rough cut on the floor with you tracksaw) then accurately cut them to size with the table saw

Rule 1 - normal timber...ripping down a 4 x 2, for example. For me a table saw with a decent outfeed everytime unless the length is short (say under 1m) in which case a bandsaw will work as well. Yes, you can use a tracksaw but it's not ideal.

Rule 2 - if you want to cut an angle on the end of a piece of timber then a mitre-saw is one of the easiest. A table saw is OK. None of the others cut it although if you're using a tiny piece of timber (say under 250mm) then a bandsaw would work.

Rue 2 (b) - If you want to put an angle on a thin piece of tiber all the way down its length then again it's the table saw for me. You can do it on a bandsaw but you need lots of infeed and outfeed support. Of course, you could use a spindle moulder with a nice long table.

 

[Woodster]

Woodster I have a battery circular saw but it does not really have enough power for sheet materials.

Maybe yours isn’t very good? this Battery Makita gets a great review.

https://www.protoolreviews.com/tools/po ... iew/34115/

 

[MY63]

Thanks for your input Roger I did say for what I would use them for. My circumstance are a little different from most as wood work is a secondary function for my work shop and although important it is not the priority.
I don’t have room for a table saw and to be honest I am nervous of them so if I had one I probably would not use it.
Peter Millard used his track saw a bit like a radial arm saw with a fold down track over his MFT and was able to cut across and with a jig was able to do mitres. And for my use I cannot remember the last time I did anything other than a straight cut. And I have never cut a compound mitre.

My little battery circular saw does not have the power to cut 22mm OSB3 others with more powerful motors and larger batteries might do better.

 

[Doug]

Rule 1 - normal timber...ripping down a 4 x 2, for example. For me a table saw with a decent outfeed everytime unless the length is short (say under 1m) in which case a bandsaw will work as well. Yes, you can use a tracksaw but it's not ideal.

Why not the track saw Rog I rip a lot with mine?

 

[RogerS]

Rule 1 - normal timber...ripping down a 4 x 2, for example. For me a table saw with a decent outfeed everytime unless the length is short (say under 1m) in which case a bandsaw will work as well. Yes, you can use a tracksaw but it's not ideal.

Why not the track saw Rog I rip a lot with mine?

I guess it depends on what you have permanently set up and/or the ease of putting down something to cut 'onto' as it were. Seems an awful lot of faff to me, fiddling about getting the track in the right place - especially if it's a long piece of timber. So much easier on a table saw. Set the fence. Turn it on. Push the timber through - all nicely supported, Job done.

 

[Woodster]

I don’t have room for a table saw and to be honest I am nervous of them so if I had one I probably would not use it.

Interesting. A mate of mine works at a school in the D&T department. For many years they would never have a table saw as the head of department considered them to be dangerous. Instead they used circular/track saw and a large radial arm saw. There is now a new head of department and he’s had a table saw installed and the radial arm saw has been taken apart. Some staff there are not very happy. My mate in particular has had his whole method of preparing timber turned upside down against his wishes and is very unhappy at having to use a table saw. I expect he’ll retire soon rather than use it as he’s over 65 anyway.

 

[RogerS]

That's very interesting, Woodster, as I've noticed similar 'attributes' inn myself. Let's face it, there are lots of different machines we can use to achieve the same aim. I often get hung up on using a particular machine and forget that I have a better machine available for the task in hand !

 

[HappyHacker]

Used a circular saw running against a piece of wood for some time but often got caught out if the flex got caught or I did not maintain enough pressure against the wood the saw would deviate slightly ruining the cut.

For a project I had which needed some plastic sheets cutting accurately I priced up a decent plastic cutting blade for my circular saw(a budget model) it was approaching £70. My local tool supplier recommended a Festool TS55, this was before there were any competitors available. I bit the bullet and wished I had made the purchase years before. I cannot comment on the others now available as the TS55 has done everything I have needed it to do.

I agree with Roger about the faf of trying to use it for ripping but I have used it for ripping 14 ft long 1" thick oak boards into 3" wide strips and that was much easier than trying to do it on a table saw.

A friend who had a small table saw bought a TS55 having used mine and wished he had bought one instead of the table saw. He did a lot with sheet materials.

So for your task of processing sheet materials go for it. From reading other posts the competitors to Festool appear good but I can say the functionality of the TS55 is excellent.

 

[Doug]

Rule 1 - normal timber...ripping down a 4 x 2, for example. For me a table saw with a decent outfeed everytime unless the length is short (say under 1m) in which case a bandsaw will work as well. Yes, you can use a tracksaw but it's not ideal.

Why not the track saw Rog I rip a lot with mine?

I guess it depends on what you have permanently set up and/or the ease of putting down something to cut 'onto' as it were. Seems an awful lot of faff to me, fiddling about getting the track in the right place - especially if it's a long piece of timber. So much easier on a table saw. Set the fence. Turn it on. Push the timber through - all nicely supported, Job done.

I just clamp the track to the timber on my pencil marks & make the cut, For one off cuts it’s as quick as the table saw obviously not for multiple cuts but still not really faff

 

[RogerS]

I just clamp the track to the timber on my pencil marks & make the cut, For one off cuts it’s as quick as the table saw obviously not for multiple cuts but still not really faff

I guess it depends on how much you're set up to do this and/or what you're used to. Out of curiosity, how do you support the timber while you are making the cut? And the offcut ?

 

[selectortone]

I just clamp the track to the timber on my pencil marks & make the cut, For one off cuts it’s as quick as the table saw obviously not for multiple cuts but still not really faff

The underside of my Makita track has some voodoo coating on it that grips plywood without clamping. I bought the clamps because I didn't believe it would work, but it really does, and I haven't needed the clamps at all.

 

[Doug]

I just clamp the track to the timber on my pencil marks & make the cut, For one off cuts it’s as quick as the table saw obviously not for multiple cuts but still not really faff

The underside of my Makita track has some voodoo coating on it that grips plywood without clamping. I bought the clamps because I didn't believe it would work, but it really does, and I haven't needed the clamps at all.

I wouldn’t cut 4x2 without clamping it but plywood doesn’t always need clamping.

 

[Doug]

I just clamp the track to the timber on my pencil marks & make the cut, For one off cuts it’s as quick as the table saw obviously not for multiple cuts but still not really faff

I guess it depends on how much you're set up to do this and/or what you're used to. Out of curiosity, how do you support the timber while you are making the cut? And the offcut ?

I have two offcuts the width of the bench which I use for supporting anything I’m cutting in the workshop or a pair of trestles if I’m on site.

 

[Moteyi]

I have on occasion ripped down a 4 x 2 with my festool, using another piece of 4 x 2 beside it to support the rail, but you MUST use a decent quality sharp rip blade and ideally have the saw hooked up to the extractor. I've also ripped the waney edge off large oak boards with my track saw before and this is a very good way of making large pieces more manageable.

 

[Doug]

This is mine ripping a piece of maple engineered flooring in half I went for the Metabo 8ah batteries which give a remarkable amount of power & run time

 

[RogerS]

But you're on site there, Doug ! We're not comparing like for like ! I wouldn't take my table saw onsite !

 

[Doug]

But you're on site there, Doug ! We're not comparing like for like ! I wouldn't take my table saw onsite !

Yebbut the only difference in the work shop is I substitute the trestles for two pieces of wood so I don’t cut the bench, plus I’d not got a photo of my workshop set up on my iPad I’ll check my phone.

 

[StevieB]

I recently purchased the Makita track saw from Axminster - came with enough track to do an 8ft sheet and a systainer as a package. I did look at the Festool but couldn't see where the extra £100 was in terms of benefit. Had it for a couple of months now and used it for cutting 18mm plywood sheets.

Pro's - nice and accurate, the track doesn't slip even without clamping - the rubber bits on the bottom really do stop skidding, but as they sell replacement strips I am wary about how long these will last. A doddle to set 2 pencil marks or line the track up with a pencil line - it is as accurate as your pencil line.

Con's - it is corded. While the cord is long, I am wary of catching the cord on the end of the track as I push forward on the cut since the end of the track is sharp. It hasn't restricted my cuts in terms of length, but I am conscious of it. In terms of the anti splinter strip - it kind of works, but it is not the cleanest cut in the world. I am using the stock blade however, which may not help.

Overall - it allows me to make cuts I wouldn't easily be able to make otherwise. Outside of sheet goods I don't see it has a huge amount of value because I have a table saw and bandsaw. I suspect a battery one would be easier to handle, but no more accurate and possibly heavier.

 

[RogerS]

..... they sell replacement strips I am wary about how long these will last. .....

They are for when you're tired and not concentrating and the track saw jumps the track, gouging out bits from both the strips and the track. DAMHIKT

 

[will1983]

Con's - In terms of the anti splinter strip - it kind of works, but it is not the cleanest cut in the world. I am using the stock blade however, which may not help.

I have the same saw StevieB, try fitting a Freud blade. I found the stock blade very good but only for a limited time, mine started to lose it's edge very quickly. The Freud blade however is lovely to use. I got a pair in a set (1 rip and 1 crosscut) off Amazon for about £35.

I also have the usual collection of table, mitre and band saws in the workshop but I can only use the track saw on site. It isn't the very best at everything but in conjunction with a pair of trestles and a multi tool I've not found anything I can't do yet.

I did make myself a small portable work surface, it's just 12mm ply with two lengths of 2x1 glued to each of the long edges for about 3/4 of the length. The short ends of the 2x1 are square to the long sides so when the track is butted up against them it works like a large mitre box for cutting square ends on pieces. Only took 15mins to make and is really useful. I can also use it upside down when I need to do a long cut on a piece larger then the space between the 2x1 rails.

Will

 

[Malc2098]

..... they sell replacement strips I am wary about how long these will last. .....

They are for when you're tired and not concentrating and the track saw jumps the track, gouging out bits from both the strips and the track. DAMHIKT

You did that as well!!

 

[HappyHacker]

..... they sell replacement strips I am wary about how long these will last. .....

They are for when you're tired and not concentrating and the track saw jumps the track, gouging out bits from both the strips and the track. DAMHIKT

Or use the track with a router and forget to align the cutter with the edge of the rubber or even the track before plunging

In my experience the rubber strip last a fair amount of time if it is not abused.

 

[MY63]

I have to admit to a possible error in buying the Scheppach saw when I watched Peter Millards video I was not paying attention and when he said it would work on Festool style track. I don’t think he actually said that but never mind.
The track is my issue I was planning on buying another 1400mm of track I assumed it would be reasonably priced but it is £79.99 for 2 x 700mm which is 1p less than the saw
Anyway I am going to return it tomorrow as I have not opened it yet P M s reccomendation was the Titan from Screwfix which has been reduced to £109.99 for 5 days so that is my current plan.
I still think the track saw suits my needs just need to get the right one without selling body parts.

 

[StevieB]

If you can afford the initial purchase price and don't need it long term after your build, it would almost certainly sell on a woodworking forum or e-bay.......

 

[9fingers]

Michael,

I see the Titan comes with 2 x 700mm track but no listing of extra track pieces being available. Titan is a screwfix own brand so unless it is compatible with other makes of track you will be limited to cutting widths of 8 x4 sheets.

Bob

 

[MY63]

StevieB I don't have a budget for tools at the moment but I don't want to cut 22mm OSB by hand and my little Ryobi battery circular saw just is not going to cut it (sorry about the pun).
I spent all of the money I had set aside for this job and quite a bit more on timber.

Bob you are correct the reason for returning the Scheppach was because the saw cost £80 and the track was £79.99 for an additional 2x 700mm. Although the saw would work on other tracks the track was not totally compatible with other track and accessories.

According to Peter Millard the Titan saw works with the Festool and Makita style track he also said that the blade was good out of the box. When I bought the Scheppach it was reduced to £80 and the Titan was £129 or £139 yesterday they reduced it to £109 until the 25th so I bought it this morning if I am not happy I will return it.

Obviously I would like to have the best tools available but I have to be aware that this is not something I am going to use every day or even on a weekly basis.

 

[MY63]

I thought it would be fair to update this after using the Titan plunge saw for the first time.
I have never used a plunge saw and have very little experience of circular saws either having had a cordless saw for about 8 months.
Out of the box the track would not line up as one of the tracks was out of shape. I called the help line they reserved one at my local store as an exchange in fact by the time I arrived less than 10 minutes the lady on the helpline had done the refund resale and the replacement was ready to collect.
Set up was simple I followed the instructions and was ready to cut very quickly.
I was cutting large sheets of 22mm OSB3 set the depth gauge accordingly and started cutting I used an extra straight edge to help me when moving the track as it is only 1400mm but stopped after the first cut it was easy to line up the track and it did not move once in place.
I was concerned about quality but it has a two year warranty and it cuts really well out of the box I am now looking for other jobs I can use it for.
As it uses Makita style track even down to the extra ridge for 45 degree cuts I may buy a 1.4 m piece of their track.

 

[9fingers]

I tend to buy mid to upmarket power tools especially when I'm going to rely on them and want accuracy.

However I have a few Titan tools.. Miniature inline plunge saw, sabre saw where I'm not going to use them everyday. I also bought a brute of an SDS drill/demolition chiseland done far more work than I anticiapted with out protest although recently it has started spitting out grease in use so I suspect a seal has failed but for £50 10 or more years ago it does not owe me anything but has left its footprint on a number of my working T shirts. :lol:

Bob