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Triton TRA001 router

W

Wizard9999

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Have read up a bit and this seems to be a router recommended for dedicated router table use. However, I am a bit confused. When I look for it on line I see some places seem to quote a 2400w router and others a 2000w, I also see some references to a TRB001. But according to the Triton website I can only see reference to a TRA001 and that is stated to be 2400w.

Who is confused, me or some of the online sellers? Any thoughts or experience much appreciated.

Terry.
 
No difference between the TRA001 and TRB001. Just denotes the country/market. The reference to a 2000w refers to a smaller Triton IIRC.
 
RogerS":1ddepv1i said:
No difference between the TRA001 and TRB001. Just denotes the country/market. The reference to a 2000w refers to a smaller Triton IIRC.
Click to expand...

Thanks Roger for info re A vs B. But it is a TRB001 that is being quoted as 2000w, see...

http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/s ... DZiQXy9KSM

Also seems to be another difference, the TRA says it comes with both 1/2" and 1/4" collet (see below), but the TRB above makes a specific point of saying it comes with just a 1/2" collet.

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/triton-tra001 ... 165-p70069

Any thoughts, maybe just a typo?

Terry.
 
Well, searching on this on the Internet reveals it is a bit of an old chestnut!

I have found several discussions on a number of woodwork related forums from around the world. Below is an extract from a post by somebody who I think from the context is a Triton retailer in Australia, seems he knows his stuff...

Back to the TRA/TRB. The TRA001 was introduced as having the 2400w motor with a nominal 3 1/4 h.p. This Router was rated by the Australian/New Zealand authorities at 2400w, but as it is now CE rated their rating system sees the outut as 2000w. There has been no change to the electrical components and Armatures, fields, switches and speed controllers are identical whether they are in the TRA or TRB. I have spoken to several people in our industry and they say tell me similar changes are being made across many ranges. I have also spoken to people in "white goods" and they are going through this as well.

So I suppose the point I am making is that you should feel confident in Buying Triton Routers without feeling you have been short changed out of 400w.

In using the big Triton Router I often think the power rating is academic because I have never challenged the power output no matter what cutter I have used although I would not for a moment say my use would come close to the intensity or quality of many members of this forum. (Politician poking through....).

The really good news with the Big Boy router are the changes which have been made to the mechanics of the TRA/TRB especially the introduction of the through table height winder adjustment and revised rack and pinion mechanism. All stock sold through Kincrome has this new mechanism.

I have found another post on a US forum which states the TRA is for the Asian / Australasian market, the TRB for Europe (except Norway who get the TRA :eusa-think: ) and the TRC for the North American market.

So, it seems (as Roger said) that they are the same power, just tested differently. Maybe some retailers have a 'line' on some grey import Asian stock, hence why they are advertising the TRA. As ultimately I am looking for a dedicated router table unit the key thing for me will be to ensure that if I buy one it is not old stock and therefore has the "through table height winder".

Terry.
 
Terry,

Don't forget that machines are not 100% efficient. The Power input to the Triton could well be 2400w ( at some defined voltage and frequency) but the power output will be lower. Guess which one manufacturers like to quote. All that tells you is how much your electricity bill might change by using it. Useless in most cases.

What a user needs to know is how much work can the machine do and the difference being heat and noise primarily.
For a series wound brush motor as fitted to most routers, the ratio of 2400W in to 2000W out is probably about right. 80 ish % efficiency.

A few years back Triton went through some changes following a severe shortage of their kit. It seems the designs have survived with some improvements being made but I can't recall the details.

There used to be a Triton demonstrator on the forums ARGEE I think was his handle. He was very helpful to owners and prospective buyers. Even if he is not around now, you might find his posts in the UKW archives.

hth

Bob
 
9fingers":wf8jx3k6 said:
There used to be a Triton demonstrator on the forums ARGEE I think was his handle. He was very helpful to owners and prospective buyers. Even if he is not around now, you might find his posts in the UKW archives.
Click to expand...

Ray's posts are still on UKW but, unfortunately, he hasn't posted on there for over a year.

His Web Site might help.
 
The website has some very useful links. The drill speed chart is superb, I think. Ray did use to have some destructions on taking a Triton apart but the link has gone. I do have a copy.

Ray is a top bloke. Shame he doesn't post much.
 
Well, according to the guy on the Triton stand at the D&M Tool Show today the TRA001 is the current UK model. 2400w is the input power, so seems likely that 2000w is output. Anyway, had a look at one, in table adjustment seemed to work as per You Tube video and show price seemed pretty good. My friend who I went with has a Trend T11 mounted in his router table and he said the above table arrangements was a little better than with his Trend as by turning the Triton off it looks the spindle, whereas he needs to reach under the table to do that - but off course you need to reach under the table to turn the router off, so the difference is marginal.

Anyway, all seemed sensible so I took the plunge (sorry, no pun intended) and bought one. All I need to do now is build a router table for it.

Terry.
 
Terry,

No need to go under the table to switch on. Fit a switch to the front of the router table and slide the cover over the router's switch to leave it permanently "on".

Like this

 
Andyp":3cvhlyot said:
Terry,

No need to go under the table to switch on. Fit a switch to the front of the router table and slide the cover over the router's switch to leave it permanently "on".
Click to expand...

Afraid not Andy, it istheactual action of turning the switch on the router to he off position that locks it. To be complete, also, only when the router is turned off can you raise (lower if not in a table) the collet to change over. At least that was the case with the demo one on the Triton stand.

Terry.
 
For clarification, on the Triton the ONLY time the spindle locks is when you wind it up fully above the table to make a cutter change. However, in order to wind it fully up, you HAVE to switch it off first as there is a mechanical interlock. The locking mechanism for the spindle is automatic once you have wound the router fully up. Turning the switch off does NOT lock the spindle.
 
I agree with the above :)

My Triton is in the table so the coarse and fine height adjustment are easy to get to at the front. To change bits I have to reach awkwardly round behind it and operate the switch... then fully raise it to lock the spindle.
 
Indeed but once the bit is fitted it can be locked on and controlled with a no volt switch on the front of the table as per mine.
 
Thanks for clarification Roger, that makes perfect sense. I guess the guy on the Triton stand didn't explain it that clearly, or, more likely, I didn't fully understand what he said.

Andy, yes, only need to use the on off switch on the router when you want to raise above table to change bit, at other times can switch on and off from front of table, as per your set up (which is what I also hope to achieve).

Terry.
 
I now need a home for my TRA001 and noticed this router table on offer at Rutlands.

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... +dk2009kit

I've heard disparaging comments in various places about Rutlands, but on the face of it the spec of the router table seems comparable to others on offer for a lot more money (e.g. UJK at Axminster) and to be blunt, by the time I have bought materials I'm struggling to think that I would make one for much less. Ultimately I'd like to have a custom made cabinet so I can use the space under the table for what will be much needed storage, but my thinking is that when I have the time and inclination I can build a cabinet to replace the frame legs provided. But in the mean time I would have a working table (once the workshop to put it in has been finished of course).

Of course the $64,000 question is does the description flatter to deceive? Is this a piece of junk written up well or a diamond in the rough and a bargain too good to pass up? :eusa-think:

All and any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Terry.
 
The top is identical to that which came with a router table that Axminster used to sell and is fine although there is a coating of plastic on top that gets scuffed too easily and pulls away. However if you look at the two packages they are like chalk and cheese.

Fence..the Axminster fence was significantly better. It allowed separate movement forwards/backwards for the infer and outside which is sometimes very useful. Plus it seems much more substantial than the Rutlands offering.

Base..you've already noticed that one. I can see the Rutlands one wobbling about all over the place. The Axminster one was substantial and rock solid. It also had adjustable feet to take up any discrepancy in the floor.

Unfortunately Axminster no longer sell it.
 
Newbie_Neil":1fpr21nj said:
RogerS":1fpr21nj said:
Ray did use to have some destructions on taking a Triton apart but the link has gone. I do have a copy.
Click to expand...

Could you please let me have a copy?
Click to expand...

:text-+1: Do you need an email address to send them to or is there a way of posting them online for people to pick up?


Plus, thanks very much for the feedback on the Rutlands router table. As it happens, to my shame :oops: , I had forgotten about a very kind offer from somebody who has an unused router table they are letting me have, so the Rutlands one it not actually required - sounds a good job based on the feedback!

Terry.
 
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