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What happens when you don't pay attention

DaveL

DaveL

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I have been busy with my still quite new 3D printer.
This afternoon I started a print and walked away as it should take about 2 hours to complete.
PXL_20220809_162627223.MP.jpg
I went back a while later and found a mess, the item on the left.
My mistake was not checking that I had laid the thing down flat on the bed when I sliced it. The printer was vainly trying to print it sticking up in the air.
A quick trip back to the slicer, paying proper attention this time and a reprint with it flat on the bed produced a useful scraper.
 
Just out if interest, what does it cost in power and materials to make something like that?

For context, amazon Prime next day delivery 12 for £5.99. Set of 3 including very wide one, £2.81 delivered next day.
 
AJB Temple":2q4uwk2n said:
Just out if interest, what does it cost in power and materials to make something like that?

For context, amazon Prime next day delivery 12 for £5.99. Set of 3 including very wide one, £2.81 delivered next day.
Click to expand...

Good question: Its something I've often wondered too as initially I might ask someone for a print job and ultimately might even spring for a machine of my own.

Bob
 
AJB Temple":22rxcqmy said:
Just out if interest, what does it cost in power and materials to make something like that?

For context, amazon Prime next day delivery 12 for £5.99. Set of 3 including very wide one, £2.81 delivered next day.
Click to expand...

I've never got round to measuring the power cost of running the printer. One of these days I'll buy a meter that I can plug into it. In terms of materials only, this random windscreen scraper I found on printables claims to use 40 grams of filament, which works out at about 60p (£15 per kilogram is what I tend to pay for PETG filament). Once you factor in power cost, I'm sure that this would be an example where a mass-produced Chinese injection moulded thing from amazon is cheaper: 3D printing is never going to compete with injection moulding for mass-produced items (especially if you try to amortise the cost of the printer).

Where the 3D printer comes into its own is in the ability to customise and the ability to have another one exactly the same 4 years later when the first one breaks. I've lost count of the number of times I've managed to find something that works perfectly for a job (not necessarily the intended one), used it for a few years and when it has eventually broken, the manufacturers have changed the design and new ones don't do the same job as well any more.

It's also a good tool if you enjoy playing with 3D CAD!
 
You know what they say - "A hobby is something that costs you £70 and 3 weeks of time to make something you can go out and buy now for £3.00" :D :D
 
Dr.Al":2gjb0xdj said:
Where the 3D printer comes into its own is in the ability to customise...
Click to expand...
Some years ago when I was employed by Ax, they'd recently started to make some of their UJK prototypes using a 3D printer. It was explained to me that this saved a huge amount of effort as within a short space of time, they could have a working, full sized model and could then tweak the design before approving the final version for production.
They did, at the time, also sell a 3D printer(s) but appear not to any more, which surprises me - Rob
 
Well I have no idea of the power used, but I am using it during the day and currently have a surplus of solar generated electric.
I have just put that scraper on the kitchen scales and it is 22 grams, I am using some ABS I bought as part of a job lot on ebay and the cost works out to about 26.5 pence.
I printed it as a try out for ABS as I had not used it before.
 
Think I power metered mine once. Vague memory is that it peaked at about 150W while heating bed and nozzle. Less afterwards as it keeps things at temperature.
 
9fingers":2m2lbgvl said:
AJB Temple":2m2lbgvl said:
Just out if interest, what does it cost in power and materials to make something like that?

For context, amazon Prime next day delivery 12 for £5.99. Set of 3 including very wide one, £2.81 delivered next day.
Click to expand...

Good question: Its something I've often wondered too as initially I might ask someone for a print job and ultimately might even spring for a machine of my own.

Bob
Click to expand...
If you want something printed then just ask Bob, I could do it for you.
 
I havent tried abs on this printer yet, but I've just replaced the ptfe liner in the throat tube from cooking it with a petg. Worth keeping an eye on it with hot filaments. Full metal throats are 6 quid for 3 on ebay and are on the purchase list for next month.

Seems you've been fine with abs on the bed though, which is good to know.
 
Dave, don't order them, I have just ordered some from the Kingroon website, 10 for the same price as the link on eBay.
I will split them with you.[emoji106]
 
Well I have discovered the problem with ABS!
When I first printed with it, the temperature in the workshop was around 40 degrees and I did wonder if that would be a problem. It turns out that I need it that warm to successfully print ABS, with the cooler workshop the prints are wrapping and therefore the job fails.
The spaghetti is from my first try, I was confident that it would print and went of to do something else. When I got back to check the progress the part had lifted off the build plate and was under the plastic Brillo pad. I tried a few more times before investing online and discovered I will need an enclosure for the printer when using ABS.[emoji848]
73fbe0078acfd7e7d93ccdbc6cd56b0c.jpg
 
That's why most ABS printing is done in an enclosure that can be heated. No point in trying to heat the entire room just for the printer bed.
 
looks like you are trying a few G clamps with print in place threads. interesting idea, I've been wondering about trying some printed threads for a while but always decided to go with tapped threads for a known form instead.
 
very nice.
I spy a fair few modifications to the printer too.
a quick change of the flashcode can change the 9 point grid of the mesh level to 25 points for a better resolution at the expense if it taking 3 times longer to run the level routine. I consider the higher resolution worth it.

might be worth looking in to octopi at some point, that way you can monitor your prints remotely.
 
Well you are quite right, I have printed your filament guide and a cable strain relief for the back of the table.
I have bought a couple of different build plates to try out and I have fitted the BLT level sensor for auto bed leveling, I am going to look into increasing the number of probe points as you suggested.

I have just had these delivered so will fitting an all metal feed tube.

Dave if you PM me your address I will post some to you.
ae410ddfdc92200761c49e1ace78e8a8.jpg
 
changes to the config file for 5x5 resolution
when you loaded the firmware it will have left a file on the SD card called "robin_nano_cfg.CUR" rename to "robin_nano_cfg.txt" then open it with your editor, I use notepad++ but windows default text editor will do it too.
change the points in red below (line numbers on left shown for clarity only)

257 >GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5 # x轴方式调平点数. <= 15
258 >GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 5 # y轴方向调平点数. <= 15
259 >Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 20 # Z轴抬起/放下的距离.> 0
260 >Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 20 # Z轴在两个调平点的的移动高度. > 0
261
262 # 设置探针能够到达热床的边界距离.
263 >LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
264 >RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 160
265 >FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
266 >BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 160

put the card back in the printer and start up, it will flash the firmware and you are done.
 
Octopi does look really useful, I have a pi that is not doing anything but I cannot get it to run the image at the moment, I need to did out the old TV to see if it's booting or not.
 
I have got octopi working, I am still waiting for the USB webcam to arrive.
It does look really useful, even without the webcam.
 
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