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Woodshop extended - machine placement advice, please

G

Guineafowl21

Nordic Pine
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This is a former stables, now extended as shown roughly by the hatched areas. The South 2.0m/door/4.2m wall was brought outwards, and the original open-fronted tack room at the East end has been incorporated. There will be no more horses; I loved working with them, just wouldn’t own one.

image.jpg
Machines in their original positions still.
BS - bandsaw
DS - drum sander
MOR - morticer (on wheels)
RAS - radial arm saw
SM - spindle moulder
TH - thicknesser
TS and TS2 - table saws

Dust extractor is not pictured as it may be installed outside; in any case, it’ll be placed last.

Wood is primarily brought in through the door.

Usual order of machining is:
RAS - planer - TS or BS - thicknesser - RAS again - then various.

Some existing problems, before extension:
- Spindle moulder lacks clearance to its right (not due to lathe, the wall). I can now rotate it 45deg clockwise, though.
- RAS is too far from the door, and lacks clearance to its left.
- TSs foul SM
- DS is just in the wrong place.
- MOR - ditto.

Solutions:
- Rotate SM
- Swap RAS and planer positions
- Move TSs East (left).
- Place DS and MOR across the East wall.

Any suggestions welcomed.
 
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It is best to design the layout to suit workflow. For me that is bring in the timber to the crosscut saw, then rip saw then plane, thickness and moulding. So I have my cross cut saw next to the door and then a workflow until machined timber lands on the bench for assembly. Other machines could be on wheels so you can move them out of the way.
It all depends on what you make to decide which machines are most important to be permanently ready and in which order they are needed.
Why do you have two table saws?
 
Looks to be a useful addition, you certainly have a lot of space there! You probably wouldn’t do this but for long bits of timber say on the spindle you could have a hatch through into the store - or outside.
Yes workflow, I’ve never been a stickler going from one to the next (probably not organised enough) but it is important that they are on the same side of the room, imagine you pick up a long piece and the next operation is behind you, you either have to step over the wood or spin it round before you can put it down, and if there are several, very annoying.
 
PAC1 said:
It is best to design the layout to suit workflow. For me that is bring in the timber to the crosscut saw, then rip saw then plane, thickness and moulding. So I have my cross cut saw next to the door and then a workflow until machined timber lands on the bench for assembly. Other machines could be on wheels so you can move them out of the way.
It all depends on what you make to decide which machines are most important to be permanently ready and in which order they are needed.
Why do you have two table saws?
Click to expand...
I have two table saws because I can’t resist a bargain lump of cast iron. There’s another Wadkin planer as well. TS2 is an extremely heavy, Wilson 3hp/3ph saw that is an absolute monster at ripping. Not needed so much now I have a bandsaw. It can be relegated to firewood sawbench.
Cabinetman said:
Looks to be a useful addition, you certainly have a lot of space there! You probably wouldn’t do this but for long bits of timber say on the spindle you could have a hatch through into the store - or outside.
Yes workflow, I’ve never been a stickler going from one to the next (probably not organised enough) but it is important that they are on the same side of the room, imagine you pick up a long piece and the next operation is behind you, you either have to step over the wood or spin it round before you can put it down, and if there are several, very annoying.
Click to expand...
Yes, TS1 (little Startrite TA165) will take advantage of the clearance into the store in my initial plan. I forgot the mitre saw (MS), but that’s on wheels:

Workflow is approximately aligned with the order of dimensioning - face-edge-width-thickness-end-length.
image.jpg
 
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Would also be ideal to have a number of machines on a wheel base then you can move them out of the way if space is needed.
Where will a work bench and assemble table be located?
 
This is my layout, not saying it best for you. Maybe this will help. Ripping 16' boards I will set a job site table saw up in the attached garage.1000010768.jpg1000010769.jpg1000010770.jpg1000010771.jpg
 
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Ian if you mean the thickness planer I have tried but the chips always got bunged up in the shute. When I upgrade to a 20" model it will have a proper set up attached to the extractor.
 
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duke said:
Better pic of the metal and wood lathe location.
Click to expand...
I like the tolkein picture Scott, I have one that I got when I was a kid. Worth a few quid apparently.

Sorry for going off topic guineafowl
 
duke said:
Would also be ideal to have a number of machines on a wheel base then you can move them out of the way if space is needed.
Where will a work bench and assemble table be located?
Click to expand...
Work bench etc. are through the corridor, on a multipurpose bench (move the gearbox out of the way and start laying out mortices, sort of thing).

Some are wheeled, but most are too heavy. Also, being a stables, the floor is not perfectly smooth so machines tend to rock.

Thanks for the pics; always nice to get inspiration from another’s workshop!
 
Cabinetman said:
You probably wouldn’t do this but for long bits of timber say on the spindle you could have a hatch through into the store - or outside.
Click to expand...
One of the very useful tricks mentioned by the late JK (Jim Kinshott) in one of his books. When I had a tablesaur, right in front of the door, there was at one time a hinged hatch:

IMG_5353.jpeg

...which has since been sealed as I no longer possess said machine. Note that the 'shop today is a 'no go' zone! - Rob
 
Cabinetman said:
Nice semicirclular containment thing on your chop saw Scott, but I don’t understand why a lot of Americans and Canadians don’t connect their Jointer (our planer) to the extractor?
Click to expand...
I find that dewalt chop saws have an inadequate set up for dust removal, just a small port and only ok if you use a high velocity ie shop vac.
Needed to improve this so using thin panelling I devised this contraption. Works very well, maybe 10% to 15% of the chips don't get removed.
But nearly all the fine dust.
 
duke said:
I find that dewalt chop saws have an inadequate set up for dust removal, just a small port and only ok if you use a high velocity ie shop vac.
Needed to improve this so using thin panelling I devised this contraption. Works very well, maybe 10% to 15% of the chips don't get removed.
But nearly all the fine dust.
Click to expand...
Yes my DeWalt is the same but I’ve only got round to a cardboard thing similar to yours, it’s not a tool I use much as my tablesaw has an excellent sliding crosscut on it, but it’s not connected up yet— waiting for the electrician to do the 220v thing, I knew where I was in the uk but there are 4 wires here and I really don’t want to fry the saw!
 
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