Help and guidance sort: hand planes renovation 🙏

Hi... I know there are threads already from other members that have renovated old hand planes. However, a brief search with "hand plane renovation" didn't bring anything up. However, although I'm sure I'd pick up the 'how to' I'd like to ask for your help and guidance on how to approach the renovation of these.

My 2nd door renovation/fitting got me to a stage where I needed my old block plane, hidden in the back room with my other planes which I'd put away in a drawer after coming across them after a roof leak (split sheeting) unbeknownst to me at the time of the leak. I dried and wiped over then sprayed with WD40 and put in the drawer. That's got to be about 8 to 10 years ago - maybe more I'm ashamed to have to say ..

Anyway... having dug out the block plane, cleaned up a bit and sharpened the blade to use it and it helping me achieve what was needed, my mind has turned to rescuing the remaing three. I'm therefore asking members with experience of returning old planes to use for your help and guidance... step by step would be extremely appreciated - please . It felt really good to have a hand plane (even if only a block plane) in my hands again

I got them many, many years ago... possibly around 1968~69. One is a Stanley (Bailey), while two others are marked as 'SALMENS' . A quick Google comes up with numbers of No 4 Jack and No 5 Smoothing planes on the sizes of the sole measured from heel to toe. The SB is 9½" (No 4) and the block 6".





I did use some rust treatment (Evapo Rust) on some old hand chisels but, as you'll see in a photo, left a dull grey cover on the metals of the chisels. I'd like to avoid this with these planes - if possible. Apart from dismantling as the starting point what would be the next steps and treatment/s to use... white vinegar for one? Or use the Evapo Rust and clean of with ????

I just use fine wire wool and linseed oil.
Avoid rabbit holes of flattened soles and any more than 3 or 4 minutes with blade sharpening.

PS if you (or anyone else here) need spares, I have boxes full.

Quick hint - if you get to the grey stage with Evaporust, give the steel a rub over with a toothbrush, wire brush, green scourer from the kitchen etc, while still wet. The loose grey will all come off. You can stop as soon as the surface is sound, there's no need to go back to bare shiny steel.

I'll post more and find some pictures when I get home.

AndyT said:

Quick hint - if you get to the grey stage with Evaporust, give the steel a rub over with a toothbrush, wire brush, green scourer from the kitchen etc, while still wet. The loose grey will all come off. You can stop as soon as the surface is sound, there's no need to go back to bare shiny steel.

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That's great advice from Andy. Evaporust or citric acid or white vinegar all work, they'll turn the rust into grey-black gunk that comes off quite easily with some rubbing. As soon as you've cleaned it off, dry it and then give it a wipe with some light oil (3-in-1 for example) or it'll start rusting again alarmingly quickly.

Lurker said:

PS if you (or anyone else here) need spares, I have boxes full.

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I might need to pop over and rummage, I have bought a Record No8 stayset leaver cap that needs some work and a spring and leaver.


Pete

Accipiter said:

Hi... I know there are threads already from other members that have renovated old hand planes. However, a brief search with "hand plane renovation" didn't bring anything up.

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Here you go. And I know Andy T has done one as well.

I used the EvapoRust on some other bits as well as the chisels and saw how the rust fell away... Just wasn't over happy with the changes in colour. I was expecting far more rust and deterioration on these planes than there is... wasn't looking forward to getting them out of the drawer - in a damp'ish area. Having seen some white mould growing on the inside of one of the sides I'm going to aldo have to make new drawers. Mind, they've been there overb38 years...

Thanks for all the advice and guidance so far - really appreciated

Echoing the comments above, really with planes like yours they are probably sound, just dirty and a bit rusty. A rub at the rust and some linseed oil are quite likely to be all you need.

I didn't post about it at the time but back in 2018 a friend brought these round, asking if I could help.



I think they would just have had some abrasive on the rust and an oily rag on the rest to bring them up like this:




On abrasives, I suggest you do the minimum to stabilise things. So instead of working through all the grits from coarse to fine, start with something like 320 or 400, used with some WD40, and see if that's enough. If you start coarse, you will make scratches that you need to remove later, which is a faff. I also like the Garryflex or other rubberised blocks.

You could also have a look at this thread I posted quite recently, which I admit, didn't have a very helpful title, as I got distracted into the history of the maker.


Salmen were a London tool company, based in St Mary Axe, where the Gherkin is now. The name crops up on quite a lot of slate sharpening stones. Their plane business was later bought by R Waxman in 1926 and continued as "Salmen's Successors". There's a catalogue showing their wooden planes alongside others from Charles Nurse here:

Mike G said:

Here you go. And I know Andy T has done one as well.

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Really appreciate that Mike .

I knew I'd seen something and 'bookmarked' in my mind there was yours and others... then misplaced the bookmark - can no longer rely on where I put the bookmarks. I've a photo of an advert I saw for Singer Sewing machine repairs locally. I *know* I copied/downloaded for future reference but can't now damn well find it..

Very much appreciated @AndyT ... what a transformation.

Re the grits... yes, I was thinking (from previous experience on something else) that coarse grits would scratch and I'd have a heck of a long job trying to remove them... The quick tidy on the block plane was some fine sandpaper and a bit of machine oil (may be 3 in 1 ) and the blade avoiding the cutting edge - just the 'flat' surfaces - rubbed up and down on the fine sandpaper laid on a piece of pine. Then the cutting edge sharpened on a old oil stone... hoping I was on the right track.

Ill give the linseed a 1st go and see how it works out

Now... I've got a 5lt can of linseed oil. It's old... very old... probably 50+ years? It's not full but plenty in it. My father had both - boiled and raw - as he used to do oil paintings. I don't know which this is as the label has long since gone to another universe. Is there a way of telling the difference between the two? Would boiled be a bit runnier than raw? I suppose it would be but...

The practical difference is that the boiled oil dries quicker, so I suggest wiping a little of each onto a bit of scrap wood, waiting half an hour, wiping off the excess, and seeing how long the oil takes to cure. Use the one that's more convenient!