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Band saw question

M

MY63

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My Dewalt DW3501 has not been cutting straight since the last time I changed the blade, Clearly user error.
The blade was moving backwards as I offered the wood to it. I believed I had fitted the blade correctly.

2021-12-31_12-12-18 by my0771, on Flickr

When cleaning I noticed the blade was not sitting in this groove, My question is that groove meant to be there or is that part worn ?
Thanks
 
I think those are the side guide blocks Roger though I stand to be corrected.

From memory on the 3501 I had the upper guide rod had a rear thrust bearing but I can't remember if the lower guides had one as well, that looks as if the blade has cut a groove, have you looked at the manual for diagrams and a parts list Michael? If you don't have one I'm pretty sure I still have a pdf I scanned from mine saved on a HDD somewhere. My saw was bought new in 1989 though I don't think they changed much.
 
When I had that saw I made hardwood blocks and treated them as a consumable.

Takes all of ten minutes to make a length that you can cut an inch from as and when.
I can’t remember if there were thrust bearings both top and bottom but as Lons said,I think it’s just the top.

Is the blade running central on the wheel?
 
If you haven’t already seen it have a look at this:

https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU

It looks like your lower guides are set too far forward. Unless the the guide block holder is in danger of falling apart I wouldn’t bother changing it. In normal use it shouldn’t contact the back of the blade.
 
Assuming that the top one is ok and the bottom holder has not broken through, I would just put a gob of araldite in the cut.

You need to investigate why the blade moved backwards.

Can we see a photo of the top one?
FYI I made table insert plates out of cheap laminate floor board, they were consumables too.
Advantage is they give good warning when the blade out of alignment as the wear away .

Edit: what is the black plastic bit to the right that’s concealing the other block holder?
 
Thanks Woodster I have watched the video before very informative.

Here as requested are pictures of the upper holder. There appears to be 2 slots worn in the upper holder.
I will have a look at the bearing tomorrow and see if it needs adjusting, the wooden guides also need reshaping.

2022-01-01_06-29-58 by my0771, on Flickr

2022-01-01_06-30-17 by my0771, on Flickr

I do have a parts diagram thanks Lons I just can't find the bearing on it.
 
Hi Michael
Looking at the second lot of pics it looks as if the blocks are too far forward and are engaging with the teeth which also means the whole guide assembly is too far forward. The blocks should be no further forward than the gullets. I'm sure you know that already so it's likely it's worked loose and moved.

As already suggested if the groove is filled and properly adjusted the back of the blade shouldn't make contact with the holder and will be fine once the blocks are refaced or renewed.
 

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IIRC the bearing on your saw isn’t in the same plane as the snodgrass one.
The blade back ( opposite side to the teeth) runs against the side of the bearing.
The face not the rim.
 
When I fit a new blade I move both top and bottom bearing assemblies well away from the blade. I then move the blade adjuster until the gullet of the blade is running in line with the centre of the top wheel. The bearings are then adjusted to the correct position. Using wooden bearing blocks means you can afford to have them a little further forward than some other types that would otherwise damage the teeth. I have seen some users position the blocks in line with the front of the blade as being soft the blade just cuts the excess away. I believe the idea for this is to give maximum support for narrow blades.

Good luck with setting your saw up, let us know how you get on.

Out of interest do you cut bowl blanks for wood turning on your bandsaw?
 
The black plastic in the earlier picture is part of the door. Unfortunately I dont have a lathe Woodster, I mainly use the bandsaw for cutting molds for my leatherwork, It does not see much use but I would like it to work properly. Although I swapped the brass guides for the Lignum ones I did not make any adjustments.
Cleary I did not do a good job as one of the grub screws that holds the lower guide is missing. I have checked the original pictures from 2019 and there was only one groove so the second one is down to me. I think I have mistakenly ran the blade against the metal

2022-01-02_10-44-50 by my0771, on Flickr

This is the bearing mentioned tucked out of the way, no where near the blade.

2022-01-02_10-43-28 by my0771, on Flickr

I will go get some grub screws and put everything back together.
 
The bearing should just rub on the back of the blade as you feed the wood that you are cutting.

Back off bearing, and both block holders
Fit blade, check running in the centre of the wheel.
Move bearing forward until it’s a mm from blade.
Set up blocks, if they are wood they can just back onto the teeth.


As I said, just put a gob of araldite in those cuts whist they are out of the saw.
 
This is the tool (Allen key) that I made to save fiddling with the screws.
 

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Thanks Lurker Woodster and everyone else, I tried to install the blade as suggested without success. I decided to take the guard assembly apart as it is too difficult to access on the saw. I was surprised to find a second bearing in the upper part which did not move at all, and was quite difficult to remove.
This was stopping the blade moving over to the centre of the wheel, I am going to reassemble now.

2022-01-02_01-31-53 by my0771, on Flickr

None of the usual tool emporiums seem to keep the little grub screw I am missing, Screwfix do have a set for £25 but I am sure I will be able to find one elsewhere.
 
Although Bob is correct, don’t overlook your local fasteners company.
I needed some bolts the other week and the place locally that I chose entirely at random couldn’t have been more helpful.
Take cash!
 
MY63":9h4mzk6m said:
Thanks Bob any particular supplier?
Click to expand...

Not really. I tend to want them in a hurry so choose a UK supplier offering near next day delivery consistent with a sensible price. I tend to buy a few more than I need for stock and a lower unit price but that might not be what you prefer?

Bob

Agree with lurker too, quite often a small pinch of screws in exchange for a tea fund donation works but you don't know till you get there!
 
The hole looked around 5 mm and the key was 3 mm there is a local fastener company on the trading estate but last time I went he was stupidly expensive. I am going to do as suggested and buy an assortment, I wont be giving screwfix £25 for their set though.

I always look for a UK supplier where possible.

The saw is back together now and cuts perfectly, I have swapped the missing screw for the easiest one to reach, So at least it will be a simple job to sort out once I have one.
 
Almost certainly M6 - uses a 3mm key

Any type apart from cone point or dog point for your application
Choose cup or flat point to avoid deformation of your guides
Black or stainless makes little difference for your application.
Choose length the same as the one you have.
hth
Bob
 
It sounds like you’ve got it all in hand. I’m a big fan of the long ball end hex keys for use on my machine tools. I’ve just bought each size as I need it rather than a set.

FC5-D0-B89-2031-421-D-88-A9-8-AF17324-EBC9.jpg


For fasteners I normally use KayFast on eBay. Good prices and very quick delivery.
 
I have a number of different grub screws as well Michael but not worth the run across unless you happen to be out near me, you know where I am.
If you need something temporary you could shove in a standard size stud though would need to be longer than the original grub screws I have some studs and will look at the grubscrews tomorrow, could always stick in the post if I have any and the above size will let Lurker know what to look for as well.

The original part btw is listed as code 11076 key 3 .........M5 x 8mm
 

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Thanks Lons very kind of you, I did not think to check the parts diagram. Now I know what to order I will order some tomorrow. I don’t have any need for the machine but it was on my list of things to sort. Now it is clean and ready to go when required. You know it is funny some time ago I found a grub screw on the floor I can remover picking it up and wondering what it was from. I also remember putting it somewhere safe, I can’t remember where that was.
 
There is a bit of a disparity here between a grub screw needing a 3mm key and claims of an m5 thread which would normally need a 2.5 mm key.
Best to be sure and measure the screw you have m6 will be 5.9mm ish over the threads and m5 will be nearer 4.9mm.

Bob
 
MY63":1zg9nchf said:
Thanks Lons very kind of you, I did not think to check the parts diagram. Now I know what to order I will order some tomorrow. I don’t have any need for the machine but it was on my list of things to sort. Now it is clean and ready to go when required. You know it is funny some time ago I found a grub screw on the floor I can remover picking it up and wondering what it was from. I also remember putting it somewhere safe, I can’t remember where that was.
Click to expand...

No probs but the offer stands if |I have one however Bob is right about the disparity though the parts diagrams are clear you never know. I have a jar where I put random screws etc. I find on the floor, you never know.....now where did I put that jar? :lol:

What I usually do to double check a thread is just run it through an appropriate sized nut, not foolproof but close enough and I have taps and dies so I can often make up my own
 
Thanks Roger I will check them.

In my defence I was looking at the box from the side :oops: :lol: It was indeed the 2.5mm

2022-01-03_02-43-30 by my0771, on Flickr

The two holders are £10 each inc vat I might just buy them, I think they come with grub screws :eusa-dance:
 
It shows Black but says Stainless. It will be interesting to see what you get. Not that it makes much difference in this application. I buy mostly stainless fasteners these days
 
Dr.Al":6m3dynhn said:
MY63":6m3dynhn said:
This should solve my grub screw issues. For the next 20 years :)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Screws-Assortm ... 31&sr=8-29
Click to expand...

Until you want a cone point one, or an oval point one, or a half-dog point one... and down the rabbit hole we go...

I'll get my coat
Click to expand...


Funny you should say that as I agree that there is no such thing as a 'simple' grub screw. LOML chose some door knobs for our backdoor. Very stylish, I agree. Only the grub screws they supply to hold the knobs on were pants. I kept a hidden Allen key for when the outside one came loose. Then I realised that they'd used the wrong type of grub screw. C-cubed rules ...or not.
 
Dr.Al":2ga1xlg8 said:
MY63":2ga1xlg8 said:
This should solve my grub screw issues. For the next 20 years :)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Screws-Assortm ... 31&sr=8-29
Click to expand...

Until you want a cone point one, or an oval point one, or a half-dog point one... and down the rabbit hole we go...

I'll get my coat
Click to expand...
It's not too difficult to modify them though with a grinder and 1mm cutting disk, if needs must even if a temporary fix.
 
I’m not a fan of the smaller sizes in hex socket screws. I much prefer Torx if I can get them, which is not too often unless you want to pay a lot for them. I do have some Torx socket grub screws somewhere though, I think they came from China. Brass grub screws come in handy for some jobs and once again, the best priced ones come from the Far East.
 
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