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Bedside Table

Dr.Al

Old Oak
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Location
Dursley, Gloucestershire
Name
Al
I think I've chosen my next project: it's time to make a new bedside table. For most of the 20 years I've lived in this house, I had a pine three-drawer chest that I inherited from my parents and used as a bedside table. It was quite deep and didn't leave much of a gap between the corner of the chest and the corner of the open door, but it wasn't too much of a problem and it did the job. Two years ago, my partner had a bad car accident and had to move around on crutches. There was no way she was going to be able to get into the bedroom (past the bedside table) so the chest of drawers got relegated to the spare room.

As a short-term solution to provide a reasonable height shelf for the sunrise alarm clock etc, I replaced the chest of drawers with two motorcycle panniers, one on top of the other. Two years later and my bedside table is still two motorcycle panniers! It's probably about time I did something about it.

I've been pondering on design ideas for quite a long time. A couple of years ago Matt Estlea released a video series on making a shaker style table and I like the design of it (although I'm not sold on the somewhat ornate top). The shape of Matt Estlea's table wouldn't suit the position and I want something quite a lot bigger (to roughly match the height of the mattress).

This is what I've come up with as a first stab at a design:

2026-05-08-01-bedside-table-design_600.jpg


I'd very much welcome comments / suggestions on how it looks. I've modelled the top as solid but it'll probably be a panel glued out of two planks. The top is 24 mm thick but with a substantial chamfer on the underside to make it seem a bit thinner. For a sense of overall scale, the top is 300 × 500 mm and the overall height is about 700 mm. The legs are 40 mm square at the top, tapering down (on the inside faces only) to 26 mm square at the bottom.

I haven't decided what wood to make it from but I'm probably leaning towards Sycamore, Sweet Chestnut or Oak. Oak would match the bed, but I don't see that as an essential requirement. There's an American Black Walnut shelf thing that currently sits on the panniers and I expect I'll move it onto the new table, so there will definitely be a mixture of wood species regardless of what I choose to make it from.

If I hide the drawer and the top surface from the model then the structure becomes a bit clearer I think (note that I haven't modelled the planks that the drawer will run on yet:

2026-05-08-02-top-hidden_600.jpg


With the legs hidden, all the planned joinery is visible:

2026-05-08-03-joinery_600.jpg


Mortice and tenons for almost everything and a dovetail lap joint for the top rail at the front, much the same as Matt Estlea did in his video series if I'm remembering rightly (it was quite a long time ago that I watched it). I might change the panel tenons into haunched ones, if only because I've never tried cutting one.

Again, any suggestions for design changes would be very welcome. It'll be a while before I start work on it (I need to buy the wood first and I've got some busy weekends coming up) so there's plenty of time for design changes.
 
Great choice for a project.

I had a lot of fun making one of very similar pedigree back in 2017-18, which was written up on another forum. (The pictures aren't there any more but I will upload a few when I can find them and I can provide full details if you want.)

I used walnut, which was a good choice. It works really well with hand tools and let me extend my experience by cutting some quite small scale joints. It also meant that the pieces could be thinner than I might have dared - the legs tapered down to only 19mm square at the feet.
 
Great choice for a project.

I had a lot of fun making one of very similar pedigree back in 2017-18, which was written up on another forum. (The pictures aren't there any more but I will upload a few when I can find them and I can provide full details if you want.)

I used walnut, which was a good choice. It works really well with hand tools and let me extend my experience by cutting some quite small scale joints. It also meant that the pieces could be thinner than I might have dared - the legs tapered down to only 19mm square at the feet.
If that's the one that's in the dining room where we had lunch a few years ago, it's very a very elegant bit of work and I think I commented so at the time. A pic(s) of that piece wouldn't come amis Andy?

Basically a good, if simple design Al but I think by now you're more than capable of a bit of 'blue sky thinking' entailing a more taxing, difficult piece...my two euros - Rob
 
Great choice for a project.

I had a lot of fun making one of very similar pedigree back in 2017-18, which was written up on another forum. (The pictures aren't there any more but I will upload a few when I can find them and I can provide full details if you want.)

I used walnut, which was a good choice. It works really well with hand tools and let me extend my experience by cutting some quite small scale joints. It also meant that the pieces could be thinner than I might have dared - the legs tapered down to only 19mm square at the feet.
Thanks Andy. I'd definitely be interested in seeing the pictures. Was that American or English walnut? I had considered walnut (I agree that's it's lovely to work with) but thought it might be a bit too dark for where it'll live. I also rather enjoyed working with Sycamore on the Mini-Moravian bench (and Sycamore seems to be readily available at Wentwood).
 
Basically a good, if simple design Al but I think by now you're more than capable of a bit of 'blue sky thinking' entailing a more taxing, difficult piece...my two euros - Rob
What did you have in mind? I don't mind the idea of trying something more taxing, but I definitely prefer the look of a fairly simple clean design.
 
I must admit that I'm a little bit tempted to use it as an excuse to try some of the weird and wonderful Japanese joints showcased by @GaryR (although I've no idea which ones yet), especially if I can do so safe in the knowledge they'll be hidden by the table top when the project's finished 😆

Maybe it's time for a browse of Yasua Nakahara's book 🤔
 
I have made several of this style of table. My versions are deeper with the top approaching square and with thinner legs. I'll get some pictures later today. I can't think of any Japanese joinery that would improve on straightforward M&T joinery, but there are some different approaches to drawer joinery that you could play with if you didn't want to use dovetails there.

I have an acquaintance who has made about 100 of this style of table and given them all away! He teaches a class on making it.

 
Thanks Gary. I'd be very interested in the pictures. I don't want to make mine any deeper (for the same reason I switched from a chest of drawers to a stack of motorcycle panniers!) but any and all photos for inspiration are definitely welcome.

Design (aesthetics) is the part of woodwork I find most challenging really: knowing what will look good & what's a good size (relative & absolute) for the various components.
 
2569652B-C2D8-4C3F-8F33-2216E03035D5_1_201_a.jpegA5CDC9C3-2AF4-4E69-95C9-D401BADE346E_1_201_a.jpeg0E7E7C8A-81A9-4CB4-8835-8ADC62534D6D_4_5005_c.jpeg

One feature of the Shaker style that isn't clear from the photos is that the tops are thicker than they appear because of a shallow but wide bevel on the bottom side. Like this:

27A9525D-2C38-4339-86E2-FE34AC0A223F_4_5005_c.jpeg


Of course, there is no particular reason to adhere to such a minimalist Shaker style unless you want to.
 
Al, a further variation on the same theme, Federal style with added veneering and stringing. I also made the basic model as an apprentice piece 50 years ago which currently resides in my son's house. It is such a classic table and easy to adapt to suit your needs. Enjoy.
IMG_1896.jpeg
 
Al, I think you've got that design dead right. There are good reasons why pieces of furniture are the way they are, and deviating from those good basic designs on every-day items can feel forced. For me, "elegant" and "practical" win over "arty" in these sort of circumstances.
 
These are very nice. Classic.

The best bedside table I’ve used had the top, the drawer, and a shelf. A shelf is good for storing tissues which is helpful for allergy sufferers like me. You don’t want to display the tissues on the top, or make them hard to get to in a drawer, so an open shelf in addition is very welcome. Can also be good for drinks.

Top for book, phone, lamp
Drawer for spectacles, pills
Shelf for tissues, drinks
 
Here are some pictures as requested.

Lots more available. Somewhere I have the original article that Custard gave me, with the dimensions.

Thanks Andy, that's really useful (and it looks lovely). How thick are the top and sides?

One feature of the Shaker style that isn't clear from the photos is that the tops are thicker than they appear because of a shallow but wide bevel on the bottom side. Like this:

View attachment 54542

They look really elegant, thanks Gary. I'd already designed in a bit of a bevel:

1778307579997.png

Do you think it needs more? For that matter, do you think it would be better to narrow the base a bit (i.e. have more overhang at the top)?

Of course, there is no particular reason to adhere to such a minimalist Shaker style unless you want to.

I think as a general rule I like fairly minimalist styles.

Al, a further variation on the same theme, Federal style with added veneering and stringing. I also made the basic model as an apprentice piece 50 years ago which currently resides in my son's house. It is such a classic table and easy to adapt to suit your needs. Enjoy.

That's an impressive piece, thanks for sharing Pac.

Al, I think you've got that design dead right. There are good reasons why pieces of furniture are the way they are, and deviating from those good basic designs on every-day items can feel forced. For me, "elegant" and "practical" win over "arty" in these sort of circumstances.

Thanks Mike.

Lovely project to undertake.

Your design looks good to me. You could perhaps make the legs a little more delicate?

I would like to make them more if the collective wisdom of this forum thinks I can get away with it. At the moment they're 40 mm square at the top, tapering down to 26 mm square. I can't see any reason why I can't make the taper steeper and hence get down closer to Andy's 19 mm square at the bottom. Do you think the top end needs thinning too?

I couldn’t manage without three drawers :eek:

The chest of drawers that used to be there had three drawers. One of them had a box of tissues in it, which has moved onto my new bedside "table". The other two are still full of the clutter that was in them when it was the bedside table and I don't think I've gone into the spare room to open any of the drawers in the last two years.

Whatever I do, it's going to look better than the panniers anyway :LOL: :

1778307786870.png
 
I think there is a balance to be struck with the taper on this table. On fine furniture it is nice to see a taper down to 19mm, but I always think it looks very delicate. Whereas 25-30mm at the bottom looks much stronger and practical. At the top of the leg I would keep to 40-44mm square as there is a lot of joinery going on. Personally for a bedside table I think your sizing is spot on.
 
@PAC1 similar to that design above has been in my head for a while - that is my next project. A lovely piece of work.
 
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