That's only the surface stuff.Apart from that everything is hunky-dory, eh?
S
The ex is behaving like a Chinese lower tool!
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Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!
Building your own kitchen cabinets?
- Thread starter JamesHow
- Start date
The ex is behaving like a Chinese lower tool!
Spectric
Sapling
Are you saying you just butt the panels and drive screws in ? Can you be more specific about these board screws.
So you glue the domino in the face frame and then during final fit you put the face frame on and just screw through from the side, effectively using the domino as a locating / fixing peg. This sounds like a good type of knockdown fitting that is way cheaper than either the Domino or the Lamello knock down fittings, I like the idea.
Looking at @Mike G 's thread on his kitchen it is a great example of what can be done once you get the idea of the modern kitchen out of your head, ie not just boxes proping each other up but more like furniture built as solid units with good wood and not laminated weetabix.
Steve Maskery
Old Oak
I'm not a very experienced kitchen maker. I've done a couple and don't really want to do another, but something has to be done with ours, so I am still deliberating.
But I have had lay-on doors and I have had face-frame doors (currently the latter). From a romantic face-frame point of view, face-frames win hands down. But having had both, I would never go face-frame again. It's lay-on every time.
It does mean that I have to decide what to do about the front edges of every carcase panel, and that is not a trivial matter, as MFC is not easy to paint, so I have to find a good solution to that. I don't want to see coloured doors on a white carcase. OTOH I want to see white when I open the door. It's hard enough to find stuf as it is, without having to do it in the gloom.
BTW, I like the Le Mans magic corner fitings that Malc showed earlier. I had something similar in my last kitchen and they were very good. But the Le Mans has a load rating of 25kg *2 while mine were something like 10+15.kg. Far too easy to overload, which they do not like. It's not the metalwork that yields, it's the various bits of plastic that hold it all together. Not all Magic Corners are created equal.
S
But I have had lay-on doors and I have had face-frame doors (currently the latter). From a romantic face-frame point of view, face-frames win hands down. But having had both, I would never go face-frame again. It's lay-on every time.
It does mean that I have to decide what to do about the front edges of every carcase panel, and that is not a trivial matter, as MFC is not easy to paint, so I have to find a good solution to that. I don't want to see coloured doors on a white carcase. OTOH I want to see white when I open the door. It's hard enough to find stuf as it is, without having to do it in the gloom.
BTW, I like the Le Mans magic corner fitings that Malc showed earlier. I had something similar in my last kitchen and they were very good. But the Le Mans has a load rating of 25kg *2 while mine were something like 10+15.kg. Far too easy to overload, which they do not like. It's not the metalwork that yields, it's the various bits of plastic that hold it all together. Not all Magic Corners are created equal.
S
AJB Temple
Sequoia
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- Apr 15, 2019
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Drawers below work surface beat cupboards every time. Blum heavy duty runners. Wide and deep drawers are very flexible.
RogerM
Nordic Pine
I used dominoes everywhere! The faceframes were fitted with dominoes as a way of locating the frame accurately on the carcasses, and then I used a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig to secure them in place top and bottom. That way the pocket screws are invisible unless you put your head inside the cabinet, and only then behind the frame at the top. The bottom ones were secured from the underside of the carcase before the kicking boards were fitted. Easily accessible if they need to be removed for, say, repainting.
How about pre-glued iron on melamine coloured strips?
marineboy
New Shoots
Absolutely. I modified our kitchen a few years back. I kept the carcases but ditched the cupboard layout beneath the worktops and replaced with drawers, simply constructed from ply and MDF and supported on Blum runners. For people of advancing age, like me and my wife, bending down to rummage in the back of low cupboards became increasingly tiresome, though I still found it tiresome even when I was able to bend down.
Steve Maskery
Old Oak
Yes indeed - if you can find the colour you want. Not as easy as you might think.
I used to have a big roll of, I think, oak, iron-on edging. I've not seen it since I've been here, but then I've not looked, either. That could be painted.
S
Spectric
Sapling
Just take the challenge head on, you will avoid any stress due to 3rd party involvement and can adapt and alter at will without being restricted to standard anything.
marineboy
New Shoots
One of the great things about Blum fittings is their adjustability. When I posted my last photo I noticed one of the drawers was out of alignment with its neighbour.
I installed a new induction hob a week ago and when I removed the drawers I must have knocked the mechanism at the front corner which raises or lowers it. Easily rectified.
I installed a new induction hob a week ago and when I removed the drawers I must have knocked the mechanism at the front corner which raises or lowers it. Easily rectified.
Yes butt the panels and screw with this type of screw. https://www.heco-schrauben.com/Products/Screws-accessories/Wood-screws
I run the cabinet top and bottoms full width…basically the opposite to mass production built boxes, will do quick sketch…I always use a 19mm solid back screwed the same way, makes a super strong cabinet box.
If using the domino screw method in MFC board obviously don’t screw too close to the edge, if using marine ply this doesn’t apply.
Attachments
Recently done a few of these modern draw only kitchens, so no doors.
Feedback from clients that use the kitchens suggests that it’s not practical especially not for the glasses, also I the long term the soft close mechanism can be a problem
Feedback from clients that use the kitchens suggests that it’s not practical especially not for the glasses, also I the long term the soft close mechanism can be a problem
Spectric
Sapling
Your assembly must be stronger because the sides are sitting on the bottom panel so any weight from shelves etc is transfered directly into that panel and not via any screws. I have used the Heco screws but in the very heavy duty range including the Combi Connect so a good brand.
laynainx737
Seedling
- Joined
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- Name
- Layna
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- London
When building 18 mm carcasses, confirmat screws typically require a pilot hole of about 5 mm diameter and 30 mm depth to avoid blow-out. Biscuits (usually No. 20) in the solid face frame are only for lateral alignment, so rely on the confirmats’ shear strength for load.
To achieve clean shaker doors without tear-out, use a high-speed cutter in a guide rail. For the finishing touch, Decor And Decor’s precision-machined knurled handles ensure consistent hole spacing, no fiddly measuring
To achieve clean shaker doors without tear-out, use a high-speed cutter in a guide rail. For the finishing touch, Decor And Decor’s precision-machined knurled handles ensure consistent hole spacing, no fiddly measuring
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How about 15mm rod with 15/35 taper bearing X2 clamped by two pieces of plywood drilled half depth.
Spacer between each set of bearings if two rotating shelves are required.
Bearing cost £16 rod £10.
Steve Maskery
Old Oak
I really wish I understood what you mean!
Do you have a drawing? A picture paints...etc.
S
I really wish I understood what you mean!
Do you have a drawing? A picture paints...etc.
S
Rod secured top and bottom in 3/4 ply housing
Maybe a large washer holding tapered bearing off the housing.
Steve Maskery
Old Oak
Do you have a link please?
S
Bearings
If you used just two bearings and a spacer such as a simple ply box around the shaft say 100mm square.
Rod is any 15mm bar from a steel stockists. If you only want 80cm it won't be much.
Spectric
Sapling
Looks like a lot of wasted space, a semicircle in a rectangle ! To maximise available space I would use pull outs so you can use every inch of cabinet space and that includes the back of the cabinet where often so many unused gadgets lurk.
or even drawers in drawers
or even drawers in drawers
Cabinetman
Sequoia
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Nice Spectric, did you make them, the rollouts or the cabinets?
I was taking about a corner solution....
Where a magic corner is needed.
Nice drawers btw.
Spectric
Sapling
No I cannot take the credit for these but as I am looking to do a kitchen once my other project is done then I started my research. Having worked in engineering for decades I started with a clean sheet of paper and was not looking to re-invent the wheel, the first part was cleansing the brain of any pre conceptions of what most kitchens end up like if brought through the normal outlets, the good old euro 32 process. Why we have these cupboards where to get to the back contents you end up on your hands and knee's is just bad design, rather than getting too the items it has to be much better to bring the items to you.
So look at the objectives in a kitchen, the single big one is storage and you want that to be efficient without wasted space or access issues. Looking around you soon find many different ideas that use a combination of bigger drawers and large pull outs where you can just slide it out and easily access whats inside, these include units for waste bins and recycling.
I to have a corner that needs to be addressed, yes they sell something akin to a multi layered susan but again a lot of wasted space. As I said you don't need to design from scratch, look for ideas that can be adapted to your needs and they will get the grey mater working overtime to deliver what you want, not what some salesman on a bonus wants to sell you. This is a nifty idea for a corner, keep the slides at 45° and you get this. Initially it does give your geometrical thoughts some stretching but you see what you have not been thinking of.
There are also some really clever systems that are like a woodworkers version of origami, not easy to visualise how they work except you need the mechanical assembly rather than just slides. No easy way to explain so this video gives you the idea.
Steve Maskery
Old Oak
That is exactly the same style of magic that I had on my last kitchen. It was fantastic when it was new, but the load capacity was inadequate.
S
S
Having worked with pretty much ever magic corner set up my go to when designing a kitchen is the Le Mans corner
www.kesseboehmer.com
LeMans kitchen corner unit solution from Kesseböhmer
The LeMans from Kesseböhmer is distinctive in its form and functionality. With its organically shaped shelves, it increases the storage area by up to 70%.
www.kesseboehmer.com
Spectric
Sapling
These magic corners look fancy but do you need the complexity, they also seem to waste space with the odd shaped trays. I like the more simple idea of just using the slides at 45° so the corner is well ultilised. Thinking of this concept you are still losing some space, a wedge section each side so who can come up with a design that is both simple and fully ultilises all the space ?
RogerM
Nordic Pine
I used two of these in our new kitchen, and 12 years after they were fitted they still function "as new". We appreciate the easy corner access and smoothness of operation long after we forgot what they cost! You need to make sure that what you store makes best use of the space available, and if you do I don't think there is much space wasted.Having worked with pretty much ever magic corner set up my go to when designing a kitchen is the Le Mans corner
LeMans kitchen corner unit solution from Kesseböhmer
The LeMans from Kesseböhmer is distinctive in its form and functionality. With its organically shaped shelves, it increases the storage area by up to 70%.
We also used open drawers inside cupboards which ensured we didn't have to forage around at the back to find stuff. It all comes out to you.
No, they look fine on a faceframe.
A simple jig works for drilling the hole
Call me crazy but I prefer a pie cut lazy susan for corners.
spb
Nordic Pine
The LeMans setup and lazy susan solve different problems. The pie cut lazy susan works when you've got an L-shaped corner cabinet with right-angled doors; the LeMans is for when you've got a double-width cabinet with a door on one side of the front, and have to reach through the door and to the side to get into the back half.
I prefer the lazy susan setup in a cabinet that can take it, but if your layout dictates the other type of corner unit then you're stuck with the other options.
I prefer the lazy susan setup in a cabinet that can take it, but if your layout dictates the other type of corner unit then you're stuck with the other options.
Spectric
Sapling
Nothing beats common sense and careful planing ! Why create a problem and then spend time fixing it.
duke
Old Oak
What do you use for a finish on the counter?