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Chestnut Hard Wax Oil

Woodbloke

Woodbloke

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I saw that Dr.Al was sloshing on some of this stuff onto one of his bowls, resulting in a very pleasant finish. My beef with this stuff is that the Osmo PolyX variety forms an impenetrable skin when the can is half empty, which means you need to cut the skin off with a blade to access the remainder. So question....does the Chestnut variant form a skin inside the can when it's halfish empty?

From reading the technical bumf, it seems to be decent enough product, but if it skins over inside the can it's a non-starter for me - Rob
 
Would storing it upside down be of use? Having heard that some do this with paint... Ive no experience of the treatment you mentioned so...
 
Have not noticed it being a problem, there's always the option to give the container a squirt of inert gas before closing if long term storage envisioned. (I'll try and source the link)
 
I use the Chestnut HWO having previously used Osmo and find it to be a much better product.

It is less viscous than Osmo, quicker to dry and can be built up to a higher quality finish.

I’ve had no issues with skinning.
 
I haven't had my can long enough for it to have a chance to skim over, but a simple option is just to stick it in a different container (wine bottle with vacu-vin or those bags I've forgotten the name of despite having my Mike's Magic Mix stored in one of them).
 
Dr.Al said:
I haven't had my can long enough for it to have a chance to skim over, but a simple option is just to stick it in a different container (wine bottle with vacu-vin or those bags I've forgotten the name of despite having my Mike's Magic Mix stored in one of them).
Click to expand...
Is it StopLoss bags you are using Al?
 
Dr.Al said:
I haven't had my can long enough for it to have a chance to skim over, but a simple option is just to stick it in a different container (wine bottle with vacu-vin or those bags I've forgotten the name of despite having my Mike's Magic Mix stored in one of them).
Click to expand...
I'm tempted to make up a batch of Maloof Oil (the genuine stuff, Tung Oil, Poly varnish and BLO) and stick it in a wine bottle with a Vacu Vin stopper or fork out for a 500ml tin of the Chestnut satin HWO. In terms of cost, there's probably not much in it and I'd suspect that the finishes are probably similar....dunno though - Rob
 
I find the Chestnut product one of the easiest and quickest products to use for anything subject to daily wear indoors.

An example is this Coaster and draw set from Nov. 2021

Still going strong after daily use as my chair side companion, coasters and draw set have only ever had a wipe with a damp cloth to remove Alcohol or Coffee spillages, never even had any rewaxing.
Coasters.jpg
 
I have a tin of Osmo which I suspect has skinned. Will the liquid below be ok or will it have gone thick?
I suspect the latter.
Just wondering…… why are all of these oils in tins?
 
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Woodbloke said:
I saw that Dr.Al was sloshing on some of this stuff onto one of his bowls, resulting in a very pleasant finish. My beef with this stuff is that the Osmo PolyX variety forms an impenetrable skin when the can is half empty, which means you need to cut the skin off with a blade to access the remainder. So question....does the Chestnut variant form a skin inside the can when it's halfish empty?

From reading the technical bumf, it seems to be decent enough product, but if it skins over inside the can it's a non-starter for me - Rob
Click to expand...
I've had some success avoiding the skin with Osmo by being really meticulous with the tin. I open it very carefully to avoid any dings in the lid, and before closing it I clean both the lid edge and the tin edge. I've had the tin since around May and haven't had any skin forming. I also only buy small cans now. They go a very long way.
 
CHJ said:
I find the Chestnut product one of the easiest and quickest products to use for anything subject to daily wear indoors.

An example is this Coaster and draw set from Nov. 2021

Still going strong after daily use as my chair side companion, coasters and draw set have only ever had a wipe with a damp cloth to remove Alcohol or Coffee spillages, never even had any rewaxing.
View attachment 39084
Click to expand...
Another Cormorant aficionado I see 👏🏻
 
As regards the Inert Gas option.
I, too am fed up with throwing away more of the stuff than I actually use. I do decant it into smaller and smaller jars to minimise the air contact (which is what kills it).
It has occurred to me, and I shall try it the next time I open the tin, is to displace the air in the tin with carbon dioxide. It's not an Inert Gas, like Argon or Neon, but it is fairly unreactive and it is not an oxidising agent, which is what matters here.
Making CO2 is easy. Take a tall vessel, such as a highball glass or a small vase,,
put an inch of vinegar into it and add a teaspoon of Bicarbonate of soda. Give it a stir. It will fizz and that fizz is CO2.
CO2 is heavier than air so it stays in the vessel and displaces the air above it as it does so. You will know when the vessel is full, because a lit match held at the top of it will be extinguished by the gas.
Then you can, very carefully, pour the gas (not the liquid, of course), into the tin, which will displace the air in that, too. Put the lid on and job done. I've not yet tried this, but I have shown kids the "extinguishing a staircase of candles" trick, so I know it will work as an air displacer. The only question is whether or not the CO2 will affect the surface of the oil.
S
 
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Steve Maskery said:
As regards the Inert Gas option.
I, too am fed up with throwing away more of the stuff than I actually use. I do decant it into smaller and smaller jars to minimise the air contact (which is what kills it).
It has occurred to me, and I shall try it the next time I open the tin, is to displace the air in the tin with carbon dioxide. It's not an Inert Gas, like Argon or Neon, but it is fairy unreactive and it is not an oxidising agent, which is what matters here.
Making CO2 is easy. Take a tall vessel, such as a highball glass or a small vase,, put an inch of vinegar into it and add a teaspoon of Bicarbonate of soda. Give it a stir. It will fizz and that fizz is CO2.
CO2 is heavier than air so it stays in the vessel and displaces the air it does so. You will know whenthe vessel is full, because a lit match held at the top of it will be extinguished by the gas.
Then you can, very carefully, pour the gas (not the liquid, of course), into the tin, which will displace the air in that, too. Put the lid on and job done. I've not yet tried this, but I have shown kids the "extinguishing a staircase of candles" trick, so I know it will wok as an air displacer. The only question is whether or not the CO2 will affect the surface of the oil.
S
Click to expand...
Yes to using CO2, another way to obtain it ( I didn’t know about the vinegar and bicarbonate which is brill! ) is the homebrew cylinders which have an easy squirt valve on top.
Another use for co2 is as a quick painless way to kill vermin after trapping in a bucket, if that’s your thing.
Ian
 
Blackswanwood said:
It should be okay. If it has gone thick a splash of white spirit (or Osmo’s thinner/brush cleaner) is all it needs.
Click to expand...
Agreed. Chop out the skin with a craft knife or similar and scrape off the underside goop back into the pot with a bit of wood, add a tbsp of white spirit to thin it down a tad. If possible, then decant it into a smaller container such as a clean jam jar so that there's the minimum amount of air in the jar. You should then find that it ought not to have formed a skin next time the jar is opened - Rob
 
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