• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Chris' Workshop Construction

One of the benefits of living on the side of a hill in the middle of fields is that there is always a handy land drain to tap into!

note to self....hit Submit and not Preview. That way, your posts get published :oops:
 
9fingers":3ojx8tjq said:
Malc2098":3ojx8tjq said:
No such benefits here. Residential, back and front.


They don't let Roger live too near other people. It is a clause in his resettlement into the community conditions! :lol:

Bob

LOL....us high-functioning sociopaths need our space :lol:
 
Now the roof is nearly complete, its time to tackle the North Face of the shed.

Neighbor's fence has been removed. A temporary support for the ladder has been fixed into place.

IMG_1562_zpshs20c8u0.jpg


Insulation in place up and first first sheet of breather membrane roughly stapled into place.

IMG_1563_zpspoexlc0b.jpg


DPC has been turned up, the remainder of breather membrane and batons are in place. Ready for cladding.

IMG_1564_zps5btm2iof.jpg


Chris
 
Advice Please - Am I Worrying Too Much ?

I'm using Onduline's verge pieces on the ridge of my monopitch roof.

Because their is a lip on the verge piece and the fixing screws are distorting the verge piece slightly, water is collecting around the lower fixings. (Most water does run off.) I'm concerned that water will travel past the screw rubber seal and find it's way to the fixing batons. I don't fully trust the rubber seal.

The batons are treated and I've put a load silicon around the rubber seal of the fixing. Also it should be well vented around there.

Also I've put the PVC covers on while the silicon was still wet. I did try and bend the onduline verge pieces slightly but, they bounce back.

The lower fixings locations are determined by the baton and can't be changed easily. I have concidered leaving the lower fixings off on the remainder.




Thanks

Chris

IMG_1574_zpsaqaafubd.jpg

IMG_1575_zpsl1pt6ftp.jpg
 
Would they soften slightly after the judicious application of a heat gun? Try it on a spare section first !
 
I've never used Onduline - I used EPDM, but shouldn't the verge pieces follow the troughs and valleys of the main pieces or you are creating a wall?

Rod
 
Thanks,

With regards to the Onduline, I visited Wickes to look at the Onduline Ridge Pieces to see if I could improve things using these.

Looking at this again, It doesn't seem as bad as I first thought. The subsequent verge / ridge pieces appear to be fitting better.

So I've decided to continue with this method. I moved some of the fixings slightly on subsequent ones, but still sealed with a dob of silicon sealer.

Chris
 
Ignore my comments, I didn't appreciate that the photos showed the ridge and water would be running away from it[emoji854]

Rod
 
Hello All,

I've clad the "North Face", and half put the fence back. There is a mess up with the Onduline pieces (Not my fault) for the ridge and I'm waiting for another piece to be delivered. Once we have that I can complete and put the remainder of the fence back.

I decided to clad in white PVC on this elevation for economic reasons.

IMG_1582_zpscvmnqrml.jpg


Chris
 
A question for Mike G or anyone else who would like to comment.

With regards to the insulated floor and your original drawing. I'm proposing to use 22mm T&G chipboard (green stuff).

Do you have any advice for installing the polythene, kingspan, or the chipboard ?

The concrete base has been floated smooth. Is the polythene put down directly onto the concrete and then the kingspan directly on top ?

Is the polythene turned up the walls onto the blue bricks. I'm concerned about damaging it around the brickwork, metal straps.

Thanks

Chris
 
Floor Paint

Has anyone used Garage Floor Paint on MR chipboard flooring ? How did it wear ? Did it stick OK ? I'm considering using Leyland Trade Heavy Duty Floor Paint, the manufacturer's website states that it's OK for timber.

Chris
 
I've just used the same, Grey Leyland paint on a chipboard floor I installed, the first coat seemed a little sticky not to to the touch but when I walked on it, I left it a couple of days & gave it a second coat , as per instructions & after 2 days it was fine.
20 years ago I painted an MDF workshop floor with Wickes floor paint & it's still going strong, obviously it's a painted surface so will scratch but I've found it wears well.
 
Doug":3coxyhxs said:
I've just used the same, Grey Leyland paint on a chipboard floor I installed, the first coat seemed a little sticky not to to the touch but when I walked on it, I left it a couple of days & gave it a second coat , as per instructions & after 2 days it was fine.
20 years ago I painted an MDF workshop floor with Wickes floor paint & it's still going strong, obviously it's a painted surface so will scratch but I've found it wears well.

Thanks Doug,

Can I confirm the chipboard was the Green Moisture Resistant type.

How did you apply the paint ? Roller ?

Chris
 
The flooring was P5 grade moisture resistant, I allied the paint with a foam mini roller & wiped down the floor down with white spirit prior to painting, although this was recommended on the tin I wouldn't do it again if I was to paint another floor but instead vacuum it well & just paint.
 
Doug":2gpxuudb said:
The flooring was P5 grade moisture resistant, I allied the paint with a foam mini roller & wiped down the floor down with white spirit prior to painting, although this was recommended on the tin I wouldn't do it again if I was to paint another floor but instead vacuum it well & just paint.


Thanks Doug,

I'll give it go and report back.
 
Chris Bates":3t45qrc9 said:
Floor Paint

Has anyone used Garage Floor Paint on MR chipboard flooring ? How did it wear ? Did it stick OK ? I'm considering using Leyland Trade Heavy Duty Floor Paint, the manufacturer's website states that it's OK for timber.

Chris

Used exactly that combo on my workshop Chris, there is a post on it here

viewtopic.php?f=26&t=781&start=100

It worked a treat. bit scratched up now, but all in all wearing well IMHO. Just remember to stir it well :oops: :lol:

Terry.
 
Thanks Terry,

I note that you cut up materials in DIY sheds, nice to hear someone else has the same does this, I thought I was the only one.

Floor looks good.

Chris
 
Chris Bates":26fw1nln said:
I note that you cut up materials in DIY sheds, nice to hear someone else has the same does this, I thought I was the only one.

Oh yes, many an occassion kneeling on a sheet on top of one of those 'shed' trolleys sawing away whilst the momentum moves me around the floor :lol: . But dropping to the floor right behind the til to cut the polystyrene insulation for the floor was particularly amusing for everyone around. I consider it a public service to bring joy to the general public ;) .

Good luck with the floor painting.

Terry.
 
Since I last updated you the cladding has been completed and the fascia and guttering have been installed. This makes the exterior almost complete. Just a few minor items to complete.

IMG_16141_zpszgmi4w6y.jpg


Then onto the floating floor.

IMG_15991_zpsiav4xpmp.jpg


Polythene DPC was rolled out and cut. Then Kingspan laid and cut. Gaps were sealed with expanding foam.

IMG_16051_zpsw96qzgcn.jpg


Then the T&G chipboard flooring was installed. I found this trickier as the floor was a floating type. Anyway it went down OK. PVA wood glue was appiled to the T&G. And timber wedges around the outside to keep it all together whilst it was drying

IMG_16071_zpsxhgq6cof.jpg


Then onto the painting the floor. 2 coats of Leyland floor paint straight on top of the chipboard applied with a roller. Looks good. Went on well, no problems. Thanks Terry.

IMG_16111_zpsfok1rui9.jpg

IMG_16121_zpshmvkdevi.jpg


Then onto moving in.

IMG_16131_zpsh8wzrgbt.jpg


I’ve still got the electrics to sort, but there was an armoured cable ran in when the base was cast.

Also I need to fit skirting board. Mike G took his OSB lining down to the concrete base. I decide to finish mine at the bottom of the sole plate as I wanted to monitor the area for signs of moisture over the first winter. I get concerned about shed bottoms and the wet. Due to me taking this action there is now no vapour barrier in this area.

Image%2017_zpsj1zn49ha.jpg


I think this is almost project complete. I’ve really enjoyed it. Thanks for everyone’s support especially Mike G. (Your original drawing and notes on UK Workshop contain so much concise and logical information. Thank You).

Chris
 
Chris Bates":1l95sqdg said:
.......Thanks for everyone’s support especially Mike G. (Your original drawing and notes on UK Workshop contain so much concise and logical information. Thank You).

Pleasure, Chris. It's great to know that so many people are building some really good workshops. Yours should give you trouble-free use for decades. Congratulations on a nice build.
 
Great stuff. With regards to the skirting. The only time I did this I screwed the skirting to the wall then filled the holes with tapered plugs, gluing them was not necessary, insuring I could easily take it off and get at the pipework under the floor if necessary. I know you have nowt under the floor but just in case it should ever need repairing being able to remove the skirting easily it might be an idea.
 
Looking at your sketch, you are going to have to rebate the skirting or use a packing strip the thickness of the OSB to keep it plumb.

Rod
 
Thanks for everyone's positive comments.

Andy and Mark. Thanks for your interest. I know this something I need to think tackle someday, but at this moment in time I'm going to leave it for another day.

Chris
 
Just caught up with this - very nice indeed. I will be interested to hear how the floor paint wears with use - does it chip and flake or stay as pristine looking as that? And do they do colours other than battleship grey? (sawdust coloured might be good :lol: )

Steve
 
The paint should stay nice a crisp on a decent substrate like that. One thing to be wary of though is that because it is sooooo smooth, it can become a bit like an ice rink when it has a fine dust layer on it.

Just one to be wary of.

Cheers
Mark
 
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