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Nilfisk Aero 26 21 vacuum woes

RogerS

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Trip went. And again. So measured Live to Neutral on the Nilfisk. 6 ohms. Motor? Capacitor?

And how on earth do you get into it?
 
Can’t help you with you with any advice Rodger other than to say I had two Nilfisk vacuums die, both after a not many hours of work. After the second one died the company refused to replace it, said I was obviously abusing it.
This was all over 15 years ago, bought a Protool now Festool and still going strong.
 
Which trip went, MCB, RCD, inbuilt one? That’s the first diagnostic fork in the road.

6 ohms wouldn’t be that far out for a universal motor, depending on size. If shorted, it’ll usually make an ominous burning/arcing sound. Commutator might be burnt/pitted, brushes too, or the windings might be blackened in places.

RCD trips might be the EMI filter, or carbon dust buildup, or a badly damaged winding.
 
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Which trip went, MCB, RCD, inbuilt one? That’s the first diagnostic fork in the road.

6 ohms wouldn’t be that far out for a universal motor, depending on size. If shorted, it’ll usually make an ominous burning/arcing sound. Commutator might be burnt/pitted, brushes too, or the windings might be blackened in places.

RCD trips might be the EMI filter, or carbon dust buildup, or a badly damaged winding.
It's an RCBO
 
If it helps Numatic (Henry) are based in Yeovil. They used to be Nilfisk, many years ago, so there might be common components if it's an industrial model. See also Miles Tools & Machinery Centre (mtmc.co.uk), which are also Yeovil. They stock a vast range of spares, although their excellent web site seems to be down (actually says "closed," which is worrying).
 
It's an RCBO
Some of them have a flag that shows what sort of fault happened.

If not, a good inspection, then maybe continuity between L and N to earth. Try disconnecting the filter capacitor and seeing if it still trips.
 
After I used a more sensible range on the meter, turns out that across the motor it is pretty close to zero. Conclusive, I’d have said

Edit: And it just goes to show one shouldn’t rush to condemn. After spending a lot of time trying to work out which particular replacement motor was the right one….Google’s search was really bad on this one …I came to the conclusion that I needed to have a close look at the motor and so needed to try and dismantle the unit even more. That was no easy thing because everything was covered in dust and it took a long time to find the screw heads and even longer to find the right driver to remove them.

I finally managed to get to the motor, removed the spade connectors and double checked the resistance. To my surprise, it was about six ohms which is the value suggested by others here is okay. When I re-fitted the spade connectors I realise that one was very very loose and on closer inspection I could see that it could move across and touch the other spade connector. Short circuit par excellence. Tightened it up and tested it.

To my delight, it ran just fine and the breaker did not drop out. A good couple of hours work, I’d say.
 
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