Seven Heirlooms - Time to Start Shaping the Necks

[Malc2098]

While still working at the laptop, I turned to the the headstock where I inlay my Mother Of Pearl signature logo. For these heirlooms, I thought I might also add a child's name to each one.

My MoP stock is 35mm square and 2mm thick. The cutter I will use to mill the letters from the stock is 0.6mm in diameter. Each pass is only 0.1mm deep, so 20 passes in total for each letter. I've used a trial version of the upgrade of my Cad/Cam software which automatically 'nests' the letters within the stock. Each letter is at least one cutter diameter from another and the border of the stock as well. It's sped up of course, the real process will take about 45 minutes.

 

[Malc2098]

Time to start milling the components. Where before I'd draw a single component in my CAD/CAM program, as I'm making seven instruments, I need to improve the production process. So, with two workpieces of African Blackwood, I drew four bridges and set about milling them.



That was the simulation produce by the software.




The workpiece with four cutters to complete this mill.





The string pin holes are drilled using 5mm drill.




The saddle slot and the pickup wire hole are milled and drilled with the same 4 flute spiral cutter. Each of the instruments will have under saddle piezo pickups.




The outline of the bridges are milled with a 6mm spiral cutter.




The bridge wings are rough milled with the same 6mm cutter.




The wings get a finish cut with a 6mm bullnose cutter.





Here's how they turned out. I'll do the rest tomorrow.

 

[duke]

The bridges look good Malc. How long did it take you to write the program, asking as I know nothing about operating a CNC?

 

[Malc2098]

The bridges look good Malc. How long did it take you to write the program, asking as I know nothing about operating a CNC?

Thanks, Duke. It doesn't take too long. I find the software I use easier than others I have tried. What slows me down is that I don't use it every day, so each time a draw another component, I forget the tips a tricks I used the last time.

 

[Malc2098]

Finished. Prepared by hand. Shaped by machine. Machine marks removed by hand. They're all identical, apart from the grain. I couldn't achieve that entirely by hand.

With timber like this that's not really sustainable, as the maker, I almost see it as my duty to make as little waste as possible and the best job I possibly can. Using both hand tools and machines, I can achieve that.

 

[NickM]

Looking good

 

[Malc2098]

I love the way this machine can do such accurate and intricate work.



The fret slot is 0.6mm wide (so is the diameter of the end mill), the slot depth is 1.2mm, and the slots are stopped before the edge of the fretboard, so that the fret tangs won't be seen on the finished neck.






I used a 6mm end mill to cut the profile and achieve the little volute that will cover the purfling join of the rosette.




Six more to go, and maybe one more for luck.
The timber is Ovangkol which I bought as woodturning blank ages ago.

 

[Malc2098]

Seven fretboards finished; four Bocote and three Ovangkol. this design include a little volute to cover the purfling join of the rosette.

 

[duke]

The Bocote looks amazing as well as the Ovangkol.

 

[Dr.Al]

Those some impressive looking grain patterns. I suspect these heirlooms are going to be gorgeous once they're finished.

 

[AJB Temple]

Very unusual and nice. Do you not dot them on uke's?

 

[Malc2098]

Very unusual and nice. Do you not dot them on uke's?

Yes, but only on the edge, my choice of design; 3, 5, 7, 10, 12 and 15. And that's tricky, the dots are 2mm diameter and the fretboards are 4mm thick. About to try and solve that problem shortly.

 

[Malc2098]

And here's what I mean by tricky.



I'm working on a jig to drill a 2mm hole, 2mm deep into the edge of the fretboard.

BTW, holding all the fretboards together like shows me just how how exactly the same shape they all are. I could never achieve that by hand.

 

[DaveL]

And here's what I mean by tricky.

View attachment 32773

I'm working on a jig to drill a 2mm hole, 2mm deep into the edge of the fretboard.

BTW, holding all the fretboards together like shows me just how how exactly the same shape they all are. I could never achieve that by hand.

I think for that number of fretboards you could set up and bore the holes on the CNC.
The dots on the front are really useful when playing with friends and they don't know the time, they make it easier to busk along. That's how I would join in on bass, many years ago

 

[Malc2098]

I think for that number of fretboards you could set up and bore the holes on the CNC.
The dots on the front are really useful when playing with friends and they don't know the time, they make it easier to busk along. That's how I would join in on bass, many years ago

Thanks, Dave. I have thought about doing that, but I'm not so confident that I could get each board on edge, perfectly level, they're tapered, and absolutely square to the table. I made up eight blanks, and damaged the first one on the machine, so I've got no more spares. But I might have come up with a solution.

 

[Malc2098]

I think I might go about it this way. I rebated a piece of hard Sycamore the thickness of the fretboard.



I made a line half the thickness of these fretboards along over the rebate. I drilled through with the pillar drill. I set the 2mm drill up with a stop, so it only protruded through the jig for 2mm.



Using the line of the drill, I could line up the jig with the dot marker position lines I marked on the back of the board.




This has been testing my eyes, I can tell you!




And I eventually got the little blighter in…..




…leaving just enough protruding to chisel off without marking the board.




For a trial run, I think that was OK. The hole was not quite on the centre of the edge, so making out the jig with a couple of pieces of tape moves the jig over a bit to leave the hole in the centre.



It's tea time and my eyes ache.

 

[thetyreman]

And here's what I mean by tricky.

View attachment 32773

I'm working on a jig to drill a 2mm hole, 2mm deep into the edge of the fretboard.

BTW, holding all the fretboards together like shows me just how how exactly the same shape they all are. I could never achieve that by hand.

I learnt a trick for doing side dots by hand and also on the fretboard, get a short ruler say 150mm long and use the 100 or a 10 as the reference, then try and make it central in the fret, I was surprised by how accurate it is, your eye just naturally finds the exact centre, it worked really well on my guitar build.

 

[Malc2098]

So, I had to bin the jig and manually drilling. The jig hole wore and the result was they'd rilled off centre. I've taken up @DaveL 's suggestion and worked on a way to programme the CNC machine to do it.

First I milled a fretboard shaped pocket in some Birch ply.



I fixed the spare already drilled fretboard in the pocket and then sandwiched it with another piece of ply.



I clamped the sandwich to a fixed piece on the spoilboard.




I had to shim the sandwich to make sure the X axis went centrally along the fretboard. (The sandwich tilted a little.)

I pressed start and off it went.



This is a screengrab off the video, but if you look carefully, you can see my drilled holes are all over the place, while the milled ones are spot on.




So, I turned the fretboard over and mill drilled the other side and they're perfectly centrally aligned; 2mm diameter within a 4.45mm width of wood. And breathe.

Seven proper ones to do tomorrow.

 

[DaveL]

I am pleased the idea was helpful

 

[Malc2098]

That'll do.

Now I've got to get tiny blobs of CA glue and then them little blighters into them there holes.

 

[Malc2098]

Now I've got to fit 140 frets.

 

[Dr.Al]

Now I've got to fit 140 frets.

Try not to...

....

wait for it...

...

worry

 

[duke]

Fret markers turned out nice Malc!

 

[Malc2098]

After a bit of a setback when on of the MoP sheets went flying across the workshop, I milled seven signature logos, with only that one ruined.



The MoP sheets are 35 x 35 x 2mm. The End Mill is 0.6mm diameter spinning at 24k rpm at 0.1mm per pass. I forget what the feed rate is, but each one took about 12 minutes to complete.



Spot the damaged one! The one that is a gap is a slightly larger logo that I fitted to one of the guitars last year.

That spare sheet on the right is reserved for the children's names. So, back to the computer to make sure they're all drawn the same, and their pockets are drawn in the headstocks 0.05mm oversize to allow them to fit.

 

[Malc2098]

I don't know about you, but i found that a nerve-racking experience. Milling the pockets, cleaning them, gluing the inlays, filling the voids with sawdust and glue, then sanding and scraping down, each item took about an hour.

I've spared you videos of the shaping and milling the pockets.

 

[duke]

Nice touch having their names added.

 

[thetyreman]

that is so nice, they are not ever going to forget this malc guaranteed.

 

[Malc2098]

Now that all the component milling is complete, I've stowed the CNC machine away in the rafters.

I've prepared all the instrument sides and their veneer laminates and all of them have to be bent.

That's two sides and four veneer laminates per instrument; 42 in total!!




It's going to take some time.

I don't know whether to use the bending machine or heating iron. Maybe a combination of the two.

 

[Malc2098]

First I spray the sides with water and allow to soak before wrapping in kitchen foil.





Then I fit the wrapped pair in the bending machine.




Switch on and set to regulo 1.




Bring up to temperature, then allow to cool before releasing.




Looking not too bad.




Not bad at all, but I must use a different way of marking the waist, so I don't cook the ink into the beautiful Sycamore.




Allow the wood sides to 'rest' in the mould.





Rinse and repeat with the veneer laminations.




That's one instrument's sides and laminations bent to almost shape; 'almost' because there is springback, even with the veneer. After laminating, they will stay exactly in shape.

 

[PAC1]

I remain in awe of such instrument making, let alone the production line. Excellent work and progress.

 

[duke]

Nice figured wood, what wood are you using for the sides?

 

[Malc2098]

Thank you.

Nice figured wood, what wood are you using for the sides?

Thanks, Duke.

The wood is Sycamore from the corner offcuts of @NickM's elliptical table.

 

[Malc2098]

I remain in awe of such instrument making, let alone the production line. Excellent work and progress.

Thank you.

 

[AndyP]

I remain in awe of such instrument making, let alone the production line. Excellent work and progress.

Hear! hear!

 

[Malc2098]

Hear! hear!

Thanks, Andy.

 

[Dr.Al]

I've said it before and I'll say it again: I have zero interest in musical instruments and if you'd asked me before reading @Malc2098's threads, I would have said I've got zero interest in the process of making those instruments. However, despite still not being interested in making anything like that myself or working in the way that @Malc2098 works, this (along with @Mike G's extension thread, @GaryR's shed and @AndyT's bed and coffee table) is firmly up there in the list of threads I most eagerly click on when there's a new post.

Fascinating as ever, thanks Malc. Sorry I haven't got anything especially useful to add, but that doesn't mean I'm not reading and enjoying every little bit of it.

 

[AndyT]

^^^^ Me too!

 

[Dr.Al]

^^^^ Me too!

You're a fan of your bed build too are you?!

 

[Malc2098]

Thank you, Chaps. It's reading you comments and seeing your likes that makes me, as an amateur, feel I'm doing something worthwhile because somebody else appreciates reading about it and seeing the results.

 

[AJB Temple]

I like the threads too, even though as an amateur musician I don't like uke's at all. I do admire seeing someone learn the luthiery craft, adopt new methods, critique their work and improve all the time. And here we have an actual production line.