• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Small workshop

Mike G":39eibv2v said:
MY63":39eibv2v said:
.......I bought what I thought was the correct straps for fixing the sole plate to the lintel but they are about 3mm......

Those are the normal heavy duty tie down straps for houses and so on. They'll be massively too long, and overkill for this little shed. My 30m sq workshop only has the thin universal banding on a roll, which is loads cheaper, and you can just snip it with tin snips, so that's what I suggest is used.

I believe that is what they are although they would fit they are 2 x 50 x 200 mm.

I am currently re reading the section on your post regarding DPC which I believe does require a mortar fillet to sit on. With a length of 100 x 50 mm sat on top to hold it down ?
 
9fingers":18cu6qnz said:
RogerS":18cu6qnz said:
Seriously good progress, Michael. You should be dead chuffed.


:text-+1:

Things will really start moving now as your work goes from a 2D frame on the ground to a 3D structure.

No wonder you were having a bit of trouble shifting those lintels - I'd wrongly assumed you were using the 50 x100mm nom section ones. :oops:

Bob

I missed the first part of your post earlier Bob I have hated doing the foundations but I cant wait to start making the frames and putting it together.
It would not be possible for me to build this workshop without the support of people on this forum giving advice freely.
 
I had both doors of my 'shop open while I was in there today!

It was all of........10 degrees in there! :D
 
I was in DaveL's workshop this afternoon for an hour or two. After an hour at about 5 degrees, Dave wandered over and lit his woodburner, and we reached the balmy heights of about 6.5 degrees by the time we'd finished.
 
Mike G":6j2t86yk said:
I was in DaveL's workshop this afternoon for an hour or two. After an hour at about 5 degrees, Dave wandered over and lit his woodburner, and we reached the balmy heights of about 6.5 degrees by the time we'd finished.

Sounds like he needs some guidance on insulation Mike; unless the temperature rise was from the matches alone. :lol:

Bob
 
Mike G":fopphtz1 said:
I was in DaveL's workshop this afternoon for an hour or two. After an hour at about 5 degrees, Dave wandered over and lit his woodburner, and we reached the balmy heights of about 6.5 degrees by the time we'd finished.
Before Mike arrived this afternoon, I had been out on a bike ride,[emoji468], looking at the ride log on Garmin Connect the minimum temperature was 0°C with an average of 1°C, so 5°C was relatively warm. [emoji5]
 
9fingers":1ab8zc50 said:
Sounds like he needs some guidance on insulation Mike; unless the temperature rise was from the matches alone. [emoji38]

Bob
Bob,

No matches were harmed in lighting the wood burner, I use an arc igniter, but you are right about needing more insulation, any donations would be great fully received. [emoji849]
 
Being just a few miles North of MY63 today, I can assure you, he made the best decision to leatherwork indoors. I was completing an 'emergency fix' (nice way of saying "cobbled bodge") to FINISH my daughter's kitchen. I have not managed full workshop initiation yet, and so was improvising on an old Ryobi saw base..in the open doorway...at 1 degree above freezing, snow drifting on my back...thank Gawd that Persian cat next door came past and I was able to get feeling back by pretending to scratch her back. Just buried my red mitts in her (ample) fur for two mins...Oww!! Returning circulation is a bugger!

Sam the Snowman.
 
9fingers":1xko15te said:
A mate popped round today and was wearing shorts! Winter what winter :lol:

Bob

Soft Southerner....my mate wears his shorts all through the year up here ! He might be forced on occasion to put a sweater on. :lol:
 
SamQ aka Ah! Q!":wq4n26g4 said:
Being just a few miles North of MY63 today,....

I told you that you were going too far East :lol: Glorious sunshine all day. I was even tempted to get the Barbie out. :D
 
9fingers":2f87m14s said:
Mike G":2f87m14s said:
I was in DaveL's workshop this afternoon for an hour or two. After an hour at about 5 degrees, Dave wandered over and lit his woodburner, and we reached the balmy heights of about 6.5 degrees by the time we'd finished.

Sounds like he needs some guidance on insulation Mike;........

Insulating Dave's workshop would be quite a logistics task. It's fairly full.

Anyway, never minding that, the turning went really well, but the experimental piece needs a bit of a design tweak.
 
RogerS":21oxvswc said:
SamQ aka Ah! Q!":21oxvswc said:
Being just a few miles North of MY63 today,....

I told you that you were going too far East :lol: Glorious sunshine all day. I was even tempted to get the Barbie out. :D

It was sunny hear most of the day, I woke to snow & a hard frost with a wind chill that lasted all day barely above freezing not the best day then to have booked in a garage door refurb, I was glad to get back to the workshop by late afternoon.
 
I feel like I am obsessed with the weather at the minute. The snow has gone now and the temperature made it all the way to 4 degrees so I put an extra layer on and ventured out to the garden.
My aim was to finish levelling the lintels and make it square I used a crowbar for the lifting.

2019-01-19_03-06-46 by my0771, on Flickr

One small issue looking at the picture above the diagonals are 10 mm out bottom left to top right is the longest. However the internal corners are 90 degrees.

The lintels are level and the tops are flat

2019-01-19_03-07-21 by my0771, on Flickr

Any thoughts ?

I am hoping to lay the DPC and its mortar base tomorrow if it is warm enough.
 
Assuming that the lengths of the parallel sides are exactly equal, which is probably not true,

10mm out on that sort of size implies an error of +/- 0.07 degrees at the corners.

This really is not going to make the slightest difference.

Now if the diagonals of a drawer box were out by 10mm then I'd start investigating. :lol: :lol:

Bob
 
I'd try to get the diagonals right. Never mind the angular measurement. So long as all the sides are the same length as their opposite number and the diagonals are equal, then it's square. It's only a quick 5mm tap on one corner.
 
I have to be honest I prefer Bobs answer but we all know Mike is right if it is dry tomorrow I will be out with my hammer. Although I will check the lengths before I start hitting stuff :D.
I really want to get on with the timber work but I am wasting my time if it is not square to start with.
 
I could be wrong but does it really matter if the lintels are slightly out ? Surely as long as the wood part is square then that's all that matters ?
 
No, it doesn't hugely matter Roger, but if it is a simple 2 minute job to tap the thing square.......
 
Mike G":2tb1cbf9 said:
No, it doesn't hugely matter Roger, but if it is a simple 2 minute job to tap the thing square.......

I agree completely but until I learned better I'd keep fiddling away at something like this for ever and a day until I learned to put things in perspective ! As I keep saying in my threads..."it's not a piece of furniture" :D
 
Late start today I have just popped out and checked one of the 1.8 m lintels is 5 mm oversize in length and width.
When I lined them up I worked from the inside and did not pay any attention.

With regard to the DPC does it sit on mortar and then have mortar on top for the sole plate to sit on .?
Is the sole plate cut right through to allow for fitting the plastic vents ?
6 to 1 the best mortar mix for this ?

Thanks
 
It is the first time I have worked with mortar so I watched a couple of you tube videos before I started.
I cut the DPC to length and stapled small pieces of wood to the ends as I had seen someone do on their build on here sorry I cant remember who it was. But it worked. I also sorted some timber of the correct length to sit on top after laying the mortar.
My aim was for a 1cm bed of mortar so off I went working my way around slowly trying maintain the level I had worked so hard to achieve.

I had no idea how much to mix but the video I watched the guy mixed a double mix so that is what I mixed

2019-01-20_04-07-56 by my0771, on Flickr

This is what was left.
I was finished and cleared away by 3pm and although it was fairly warm 6 degrees (that is warm for here) but I covered everything over with heavy duty weed barrier I hope it is ok.
 
As I said I spent yesterday preparing and laying the mortar base for the DPC the forecast during the day was for above 0 overnight at 5 pm it changed to -3 overnight. I had covered everything with the heavy duty weed barrier which is black this morning it is white with frost.
Is there anything I can do or is it a case of wait and see if there is a problem what should I be looking for.
 
Unless it has crumbled and turned to powder, don't worry. The issue with frost is normally with masonry, where you can literally pick bricks off the wall by hand after frost gets to the mortar. In this case, the mortar is there only to protect the DPC, and to level the plate, so it doesn't much matter if it has some minor frost damage.
 
Thanks Mike the covers are still on.
With respect to the vents I was planning on putting 2 on either side leaving the smaller ends free.
Do the vents sit on the mortar for the sill plate and is the sill plate cut all of the way through to accommodate the vent.

2019-01-21_08-50-45 by my0771, on Flickr

I would like to get the mortar part finished today if possible I am going to get the galvanised strip today so can get more vents if needed.
 
The vents are cut through this plate, which is held together by the base of the frame, later. You can cut through this plate enough to fit the vent (sizes vary), but obviously you can't crash about too much with a chisel to form the opening. The vent will need to be above the DPC.
 
Please forgive me asking but the sill plates are laid on mortar and cut once dry? no overlap or fixing to each other

Thanks
 
It doesn't much matter. I'd certainly make them up dry myself, with a joint at the corners, housed out for the straps and the vents, then locate them on the mortar bed and strap them down. But if another way works for you, then that's fine too. Just be cautious of bashing them with a mallet and chisel once they're bedded on mortar.
 
Thanks Mike I have it now the vent tops are 50mm same as the timber I have made an error with the timber it is only 2.4 m I did not allow for overlap but I can use some other 50 x 100mm and add extra to my plywood order.
My timber merchant has flooring in large tand g panels would that be suitable I am finding big sheets difficult to handle.
Thanks
 
Yeah sure, that's perfectly all right. In fact, that's standard. Try to make sure the joints occur on joists, and best to glue the t&g's.
 
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