Cased frame sliding sashes with hand tools

[Planeiron]

Preliminary stages of making some sliding sashes and cases. Probably 3 sliding and further fixed lights but haven't decided yet. These will be almost entirely made with handtools. I thought I'd make one sliding sash and post as a WIP if there's interest.



These windows will all be opening to a garden so I was thinking of integrating a roller fly screen into the design as indicated in fig 4. Has anyone done this before? The inside part of the metal housing of the fly screen runner would replace or be the staff bead and then further decorative wood casing go on the outside to hide the screen housing.



Here's a picture of a fly screen from our house. The screen housing in white here would be covered and I'd change the bottom piece to look a bit nicer. The upper mechanism would be hidden in the head lining.



I usually print out parts of Ellis's text rather than writing over my copy. These out of print books are freely available

https://www.woodworkersuk.co.uk/books/modern-practical-joinery-g-ellis-1908.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOopixWfuaWYTPT9yKamrCmLUXXKZRJwWP0jE73DNI4lrVeoRSuSb

 

[AndyT]

Brilliant, huge thanks in advance for this. I've been fascinated by this subject since I first lived in an older house with timber sash windows and gradually realised how there must have been small scale, pre-industrial methods that could make them efficiently enough to be commercially viable.

Skip forward several decades and I have read what descriptions I can find, acquired most of the tools needed, but not yet found an excuse for having a go at making a window I don't need! But I shall enjoy watching you, I'm sure.

 

[SteveMP]

Brilliant, huge thanks in advance for this. I've been fascinated by this subject since I first lived in an older house with timber sash windows and gradually realised how there must have been small scale, pre-industrial methods that could make them efficiently enough to be commercially viable.

Skip forward several decades and I have read what descriptions I can find, acquired most of the tools needed, but not yet found an excuse for having a go at making a window I don't need! But I shall enjoy watching you, I'm sure.

I echo Andy's sentiments. I have read the Lost art Press book on doors and windows and bought a few old wooden window sash planes but haven't had a chance to do anything with them. House built in 1940s so may redo some one day, but too many other things going on.

 

[Planeiron]

Finding the time is most of the battle and skill in making I've come to find. I've never had much luck in finding sash planes and they would certainly speed things up especially if a few needed making: but these can be made with relatively few handtools that probably most people, the ones using this forum anyway, will have.

This build will possibly be sharing time with a writing desk that I've just been informed needs to be made (with no more than a vague idea of dimensions etc, not sure whether I will be required to build drawers either)... It's quite nice though that writing is still a thing.

Another detail of the cased frame that will differ from Ellis is the sill. This will probably be more like the filthy one pictured with less close-to-horizontal timber. I plan to form a metal sill (probably copper) which would be attached to the vertical sill part or slip under it with a little upstand (like the concrete sill in the picture) to shed water though I haven't worked out the detail yet.

 

[AndyT]

There are so many variations!

Here in Bristol we have what I think of as normal, with a timber cill twice as deep as yours, coming out as far as the front vertical bead, and no external architrave.

In Bath, a lot of the Georgian buildings have sashes down to the stone cills, with no fixed horizontal timber.

 

[Planeiron]

Surely someone has documented all these variations in a handy textbook!

 

[Raymedullary]

Yes please, be good to see some good old hand Joinery

 

[PAC1]

It will be good to see such a thread. I used to make them when I was an apprentice 45 years ago. I have made one or two since.
Now will you use lead weights or spirals? On a serious note will you incorporate modern draft proofing measures?

 

[SteveMP]

There are so many variations!

Here in Bristol we have what I think of as normal, with a timber cill twice as deep as yours, coming out as far as the front vertical bead, and no external architrave.

In Bath, a lot of the Georgian buildings have sashes down to the stone cills, with no fixed horizontal timber.

I have actually been to Bath. Beautiful town. But I only visited the old baths, walked around a church and ate somewhere that had giant hamburger buns as plates? I vaguely remember getting a cornish pastry before hopping back on the train.

 

[AndyT]

I have actually been to Bath. Beautiful town. But I only visited the old baths, walked around a church and ate somewhere that had giant hamburger buns as plates? I vaguely remember getting a cornish pastry before hopping back on the train.

I think you missed the best bits!

 

[NickM]

I’ll be following this closely. I’m going to have to do something similar later this year/early next.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[Planeiron]

Now will you use lead weights or spirals? On a serious note will you incorporate modern draft proofing measures?

Weighted sashes to be used. I've a few old weights that were donated to me years ago by a friend so will hopefully get to use those. If memory serves correctly they were quite large diameter so I would think larger than I would need though maybe not lead so we'll see: I seem to remember quite a bid of surface corrosion. I have a lot of lead scraps so maybe could form some weights though I've never tried that before.

Planning on incorporating draft proofing which no doubt will complicate things with accommodating in housings and channels and changing measurements a bit.

I can't see how to integrate and hide a flyscreen without seriously weakening the boxed casings so might put that to one side for now.

Luckily I have found my old prototype piece of a previous pully stile (I usually keep old pieces) to help visualise and plan.



Cut list in process of finalising so hopefully will buy some timber during the week.

 

[SteveMP]

Weighted sashes to be used. I've a few old weights that were donated to me years ago by a friend so will hopefully get to use those. If memory serves correctly they were quite large diameter so I would think larger than I would need though maybe not lead so we'll see: I seem to remember quite a bid of surface corrosion. I have a lot of lead scraps so maybe could form some weights though I've never tried that before.

Planning on incorporating draft proofing which no doubt will complicate things with accommodating in housings and channels and changing measurements a bit.

I can't see how to integrate and hide a flyscreen without seriously weakening the boxed casings so might put that to one side for now.

Luckily I have found my old prototype piece of a previous pully stile (I usually keep old pieces) to help visualise and plan.

View attachment 57360

Cut list in process of finalising so hopefully will buy some timber during the week.

Interesting I wonder if you could use fishing weights. If you go to an actual fishing bait & tackle store seem the good ones have a huge range of lead weights. Though i suppose its easy enough to melt with a torch if you need to sand cast some.

 

[SteveMP]

I think you missed the best bits!

I’m sure i missed a lot. Unfortunately the only time i have been to the UK was for work. We would stay in London, our office was on Bishopsgate downtown, but I would have to take a train to Slough where our datacenter was some of the times. So the trip to Bath was a quick stop after work but i had to get back (i seem to remember the last train was somewhat early)

 

[HOJ]

I have a selection of CAD drawings for Sash windows that I plagiarised to use for my own purposes, attached is a PDF of one, which was for use on a listed and conservation project, keeping with single glazing but incorporating modern draft seals, it’s been a long time since I worked on this one, so I can’t be specific with regards the draft seals that were intended to be used, but it gives you an idea if nothing else.

 

[Planeiron]

Interesting I wonder if you could use fishing weights. If you go to an actual fishing bait & tackle store seem the good ones have a huge range of lead weights. Though i suppose its easy enough to melt with a torch if you need to sand cast some.

I think if I'm in need of the additional weight I might try using up the scrap I already have. I hadn't considered a tackle shop. It's actually quite difficult to get weights in Northern Ireland and few companies are willing to ship over given the literal weight! My second method was to be using rolled up lead flashing which allows the cord to go through easily: not my idea but seems easy.

I have a selection of CAD drawings for Sash windows that I plagiarised to use for my own purposes, attached is a PDF of one, which was for use on a listed and conservation project, keeping with single glazing but incorporating modern draft seals, it’s been a long time since I worked on this one, so I can’t be specific with regards the draft seals that were intended to be used, but it gives you an idea if nothing else.

Brilliant, many thanks. This definitely makes things easier.

 

[Planeiron]

This is likely going to be at a leisurely pace. I thought I'd include much of the planning stage too as I sometimes find this the most challenging aspect, arguabley the most important.

Here is my cut list, reasonabley accurate. This will be further refined, especially lengths, when I start to groove and rebate the boards but it's a start. The cases comprise a sill, 2 pully stiles and a head piece (similar to the pulley stiles). They also then have inner and outer lining pieces (perpendicular to the stiles) and inner and out head pieces. The beads will probably come from off cuts but I'll buy an extra board or 2 anyway.

Top and bottom sashes are similar but not the same. The stiles are longer than half of the vertical reveal to accomodate horns (maybe 2 or 3 inches extra). The meeting rails are wider than the other pieces so that they can indeed meet in the middle (so I add on the parting bead width to each of these) but also a bit thinner so the middle portion doesn't look too unbalanced. The bottom rail is thicker than the other pieces.



I'll probably plane out a channel to recieve a carrier piece for the various brushes and seals as per @HOJ s CAD diagram but I'll need to get a few off cuts to see whats required. For completion here is a list of seals etc provided on another thread by @GaryR and @PAC1 which should cover US and UK.

https://conservationtechnology.com/building_weatherseals_components.html

https://www.mightonproducts.com/category/sash-window-hardware/staff-and-parting/

Undecided on the wood: possibly spruce or meranti or something else. I've used a lot of oak for recent work and would prefer to work with something else, not least to save a few pounds. Certainly the outside will be painted in linseed oil paint, may leave the inside natural but not decided on that yet. I think, as long as the exterior is properly protected, sheds water well and can dry out, it'll probably last well enough. Could even just use the most durable for the sill only.

 

[Planeiron]

Very short post to say this project is still alive. Finally got around to getting some material. Went for oak in the end. This is mostly European (french and german) as it's quite boringly featureless and easier to work compared to homegrown. A few homegrown pieces also included however for the thicker pieces. Today is roughly sawing to length and prepping for plane work.

Enough for a window and a bit. The sappy stuff is extra bits thrown in for free.

 

[Planeiron]

In the meantime I moved my bench and did a serious tidy up. However I've lost a full set of cutters in the process (hopefully didn't bin them somehow). It's a second set as I like to have 2 planes set so that I don't have to adjust as often when ploughing grooves. Ah well, hopefully they'll turn up. It's funny how I could immediately find them when there was more clutter.

 

[AndyT]

Have you tried putting away the set you have? Or does that only work when you buy a new set and go to put that away...

 

[Planeiron]

That's a common affliction, I'd say applies to many here too!... I've ordered another 3/8" which is what I'm especially missing so we'll see what happens

 

[duke]

It will show up, hopefully.

 

[Planeiron]

Just back from a holiday yesterday so got a chance today to progress a little. I'm planning to put a fair bit of detail into the steps involved so hopefully that will be of interest. At the very least it's a reference for me for future builds so that I can reduce the thinking time.

Start with the box, the main parts being the stiles and head and work these 3 pieces at the same time for efficiency but mostly for accuracy: in other words, each step is applied to each piece before moving onto the next. They're all the same and follow this profile. As ever, trued, squared, well prepared stock is a must to get the best result. However, I don't bother much with the inner face (portion next to the weights) of these pieces, except to get the final width of the top left tongue. The diagram shows the order of cutting grooves. I basically cut all these as grooves and then remove additional if the final bit is a tongue/rebate (hopefully that makes sense). So 1 groove, 2 tongues and a tiny rebate to form.



Set the mortice gauge to the cutter width and strike the lines for the parting bead. Ideally work as much from your chosen edge.



From the diagram the parting bead is not quite in the center of the stile:



Grooves form quickly and give lovely thick shavings ideal for the fireplace




I don't bother with the back of these pieces yet as no gauge lines depend on that edge so the rough bandsaw marks are left and the only visible wood will be the inside face alone (sometimes there's more to life than a load of hand planing). These boards are roughly 32 to 33 mm thickness



Score for the tongue on the outside edge and plough a groove



If the groove depth is correct, then the thickness of the space for the sash is arrived at (40 mm in my case). That little portion at the top left will be chiselled and planed off. The casing, perpendicular to this piece, will attach to the tongue on the left, thus holding in the sash


Now put gauge lines for the staff bead (the 6 mm notch where the gauge is sitting in the picture) and to the right of that, the line corresponding to the inside edge and base of the tongue (top part of diagram above). Take these lines over top and bottom as well



Now cut the 3rd groove





the top left section of the photo above will be removed to form a rebate and then that little 6 mm rebate also formed for the staff bead.

OK, hopefully I'll finish forming the 2 big rebates and the small staff rebate soon.

 

[Planeiron]

To finish the stiles (and head), the chisel takes out much of the waste quickly. Still needs care to read the grain. Might require working in both directions or bevel down. This piece behaved well. The chisel is choked to prevent overrun.



When close to the line then a bench plane takes care of the rest (no need for the blade to be close to the wall of the tongue as there's a 10 mm wide groove)



The width of the staff bead can be marked in the bed of the rebate... (this width isn't critical)



Now the staff bead rebate depth (pencil at mark as line difficult to photograph) can be worked. This measurement IS critical as it determines the depth of the sash


A 6mm blade gets this



Work down close to the line. The straighter the grain the closer you dare to go...



Finish with a shoulder plane if you have one but I've done this with a chisel before



Here is the stile formed (modifications for weather may be made later). Ignore the vertical gauge line at the staff bead rebate, it's good!

 

[NickM]

It’s great to see how you’re going about this. Thanks for taking the time to share in such detail.

 

[Planeiron]

I hope it's clear enough. Difficult to photograph the facets in this oak partly as the lighting needs rearranged and improved.

 

[NickM]

I hope it's clear enough. Difficult to photograph the facets in this oak partly as the lighting needs rearranged and improved.

It’s very clear as far as I’m concerned.

 

[Planeiron]

The casings are all basically just grooved. Internal and external casings have a 3/8" x 3/8" groove ploughed the same distance from the edge which in this case is 5/8". Therefore the outside casing overlaps the stile by 5/8". It will be moulded later (probably). The inner edge of the inner casing should end up flush with the little rebate for the staff bead: the staff bead is the equivalent of the outer casing overlap.

Plane up your boards. The width will be decided later (depends on a few things but the most important for me is the weights which I don't have to hand yet)



From the point of the balde to the tongue is 5/8"



I transfer this onto the casing piece


and use the mortice gauge set to the 3/8" cutter size


I score this several times so it's good and deep to prevent the cutter tearing out any grain running out to the side. You want that line on the left to be clean as it will show. The other line will be hidden so less critical



Before that point it is useful to check this on a piece of scrap which can test fit to the pulley stile



My setup for ploughing




Here's a pulley stile offcut with a casing piece not grooved to full depth. This would be how the inner casing would sit




and here's the outer



The fit is a nice push fit which should be self supporting but not overly tight



A shoulder plane is useful to soften the edge



Here are a few shots of the casings and stiles knocked together







Just need to make the sill and then cut pieces to final length. The sill requires a little more thought.

 

[AndyP]

Watching this it is easy to see why wooden sash windows can be so expensive.

 

[Planeiron]

Sill formed, head and sill attached and inside linings cut to fit.

The sill is not from the textbook but it seems to be a local variation so that's what I've plumbed for. The sill will be formed to suit this sash profile. The little lip at the left overhangs the sill.



Set off the opening width on the sill



Draw the profile on either end of the sill. Best to have the ends reasonably square. Workshops would have had templates but this is fairly simple so a drawing does the job (picture is at right angles to the way the sill actually is)


Score the line to correspond with the little step. A scored line is fine here


Plough down to the line


And this is formed



Now plane off the top slope. The outer edge of the slope is scored on that right side edge to make this easy. Try for the angle from the start.

After the top slope is achieved, go for the lower slope. You can get most of this with a standard plane. I think I read somewhere about a badger plane being the thing but here the profile can be finished with a shoulder plane or a rebate plane. I've done this with a chisel as well but that takes a while



Now to attach the pulley stiles. My stiles have that little notch to locate the staff beads. It makes cutting the sill a bit more awkward. Otherwise you'd just cut out the width of the stile and be done...



The inner line on the left is already marked and CANNOT change as it determines the window opening size. The other lines are developed from knife nicks based on the dimensions of the stile held in place





There's where the inner casing will be so all of the sill beneath that must be removed



Cut these first. Go for the outer line. The inner line that determines width is probably better cut slightly away and chiselled (it'll be seen)


Chisel removed this in a flash



Test fitting



The stile is sunk about 1" into the sill at the point above but about 2 1/2" in the little housing at the front



And it should look like this





Cut out the back of the sill for the casing



Those casing gaps will disappear with a little more pressure

 

[Planeiron]

Here's what the stile looks like for sinking into the sill and the housing. A deliberately tight fit so the wood is marred



Now to fit the stiles into the head piece. These can have the entire width fitted in or a proportion. I've gone for half the width which is about 5/8"





The head piece is clamped to the sill to establish the width



The pulley stile is used to mark off the housing width to be removed from the head

Saw, chisel and router plane makes short work of the housing


Now, all of the casings need to be shot. This is especially important for the upper casings as they are fitted between the vertical casings



Remove the tongue at the ends of the head piece so that the vertical casings can sit in place



Before the casings are properly cut into place, the pieces need to be fastened in place. This allows you to diassemble and remake exactly the same if needs be. It also stops any movement that might occur. Each stile gets 2 screws at the top and one in the sill at the bottom. These are stainless (picture looks odd but that housing is 3/8" deep)



Shoot one end of the head inner casing and butt against one vertical stile...


Knife mark for the opposite edge to be shot...



Everything has already been checked for square but it does no harm to set a square on the vertical stile to make sure. Cut and shoot at the knife mark and hopefully there's a nice snug fit





The inner casings above are pretty straightforward. The outer casings are a bit more difficult: something similar but with a mitred segment. I'd hoped to have them done this evening but not to be. Once they're done the box is largely made. I'll finish it once I've made the sashes as the beads will be made from whatever is left over. I'll also cut in the pulleys after making the sashes.

 

[AndyT]

I'm glad you posted a picture of the sort of thing you are aiming at, back at the beginning, or I'd be wondering why those bits of sill don't look at all like the ones round here!

I do like the look of what you are doing though. It must be very satisfying to be able to do it so well.

 

[Cabinetman]

I’m sorry I haven’t been following this as I should have been, it’s a most impressive wip allowing anyone to understand exactly how one of these goes together. I think we should make this permanently available as a go to for the future.
Most impressed with the clean lines and quality of your work too.
Ian

 

[Dr.Al]

I think we should make this permanently available as a go to for the future.

I agree with Ian on that. Can this be made "sticky"?

Fascinating WIP. I had to look up what a Badger Plane was as that was a new one on me.

 

[AndyT]

I agree with Ian on that. Can this be made "sticky"?

Fascinating WIP. I had to look up what a Badger Plane was as that was a new one on me.

Don't worry about making space for one on your tool wall - it will dig its own way under your shed!

 

[Planeiron]

I’m sorry I haven’t been following this as I should have been, it’s a most impressive wip allowing anyone to understand exactly how one of these goes together. I think we should make this permanently available as a go to for the future.
Most impressed with the clean lines and quality of your work too.
Ian

I'm no expert on windows and most of this is from 2 or 3 out of print books but hopefully someone will find it useful and avoid some pitfalls. The biggest issue I had with the texts is that a lot is expected from the reader. I suppose otherwise the books would be absolutely enormous. For example I've fitted the outer casings today (just about to post) and they're described as having mitre and a scribed side etc but if you've never done a mitre before then that's something that needs explained. Perhaps too much detail for some. I also wanted to show some of the handtools and guides that can be useful for making this. You really don't need an awful lot of equipment to make any of this. Some of the text is certainly aimed at a commercial workshop environment (albeit a long time ago). Machinery could certainly speed up the process but I quite like the pace and peace of handtools.

Watching this it is easy to see why wooden sash windows can be so expensive.

I'm probably making them seem more complicated than needs be. There's a time saving to be made if doing commercially and setting up to do repetitive cuts for a number of windows. Another saving could be using a softwood or other species although the sill should be a durable sort. The casings and stiles could definitely be of thinner stock. I was given an old sliding sash from a derelict building a few years ago when I was making my first unit. It was in a bad state but had lasted decades. However it was just planks nailed together: nothing fancy but did the job. Running the rebates and tongues etc definitely makes for a better more solid case though

 

[AndyT]

I think you've just made a really good point about the relative costs of kit needed for modern machine production versus hand tools.

A table saw, planer thicknesser, mortiser, spindle moulder, plus all the tooling would cost tens of thousands, plus a big space with proper extraction. Too big an investment for a domestic project.

The equivalent hand tools could be had for a few hundred and would probably fit in one large box.

 

[Planeiron]

Outer sash lining. So "b" and "c" in the picture. Vertical outer casings made first on both sides



Place the casing on the tongue loosely



And at the head put a little knife mark



That knife mark is between the pencil lines. Transfer that over to the edge of the groove and strike a 45 with square and knife


Take the mark round to the frontside and back up at 45 degrees. Then take that line upwards. This corresponds to the edge of the groove mentioned previously and is therefore equals the distance of overhang of the casing (the part holding the sashes in the frame). In this case 5/8.



Saw out the waste close to the line. These may be visible so cut close and then work to the knife marks. The line parallel to the edge can't be shot with a standard plane so I use a guide that I've worked to exactly 90 and just chisel out the waste. Take special care at the transition to 45. A few extremely light knife marks breaks enough fibres so you don't dig into the transition



Next guide has two 45 degree angles so that the chisel can rest at the correct level. Everything gets a fresh sharpen before a mitre. Takes just a mo.



Should look like this (and repeat for the other side)



The horizontal outer casing is slightly trickier but not much. This end is shot first. Gauge set to 5/8 from before



Shows where the 45 ends



End is removed



This side is now finished. You'll use it to work out where to cut the opposite side. Having the casing screwed, tongued and grooved now makes sense as everything should be pretty rock solid and measurements more believable. I take a piece of scrap just shy of the casing thickness...



... and butt the horizontal against the vertical casing and mark off the other side and then repeat the knife markings as before.



First fitting was a little off as I didn't quite shoot to the line. The 45 was a little tight until I nudged the vertical casing down a fraction













I note that I've forgotten to strike a moulding on these. I'll maybe get to that tomorrow

 

[Planeiron]

Transfering the window size to dimensions on the sliding sashes takes a little care. Apologies if any of this is blindingly obvious and a little dull as it's all layout and marking. For the total height that the sashes cover, I start from the top of the sill (non-bevelled portion) to the underside of the head/top casing. Then divide this by 2 and add on half the thickness of the meeting rail. This gives you the BASIC height of top and bottom sash stiles. Add on extra for the horns (or joggles as one of the books calls them), somewhere between 2 to 2 1/2 inches: enough to provide blowout strength for the meeting rail tenons but not so much that it impinges on opening the sash fully. The bottom sash stiles also need a little extra to cover the bevel of the sill and in my case a further 3/8 or so for the overhang. A lot of sashes over here have horns top and bottom so that's what I'm doing too but the bottom sashes can be dovetailed and left without horns.

Just a note on planing up. Everything will be much easier if all pieces are squared up. The glazing bars can be tricky as they're quite thin: 20 x 40mm in my case. The longer horizontal pieces required a couple of goes due to bowing. The oak sprang out after ripping from a plank. I've seen this happen on very long 12" timbers and is impressive, especially when considering the tension that the wood must be under. Some bowing is acceptable as the bar will be held by vertical bars. You can always cut the bowed bar for verticals as these will be cut into individual sections anyway in contrast to the horizontal which should be kept intact.


I clamp the sides of pieces like these in the vise to hold the curve and take off the high spots until it's acceptable

That's better....


There aren't a lot of pieces but keeping track is challenging so markup is important. I imagine the sashes as if looking from inside the room so the best faces are most visible as is the best edge (or easiest to shape).


All stock is marked together where possible so everything must be planed up and ready to work at this point. The second piece down from the top in the next photo isn't ideal. Leave an inch or 2 so that pieces can be knocked apart later.



Most of these pieces are 40 mm deep (section running on the pully stile) and 50 mm wide, bars 20 x 40 mm, bottom rail 100 x 40 mm and the meeting rails 32 x 50 mm (the extra 10 mm is the thickness of the parting bead). I like to think of these pieces as having 3 sections split roughly into thirds: the rebate on the outside for putty (9-10mm) and glass (4mm), the mid section for tenons/mortises - 13mm and the inner chamfered section - 13 mm. This helps me visualise what is going where. Double glazing would need a different approach and maybe thicker sashes ideally.

First thing is find a chisel that's about a third of the width: in this case a 1/2" chisel works. Set a mortise gauge to this size. An additional 2 more gauges are really handy to have so that measurements and markings are locked in.



After the mortice gauge is finished, the outer line is carried on with another gauge - this will be the edge of the glazing rebate. Note that the same (inner) face is referenced



To shoot for greater accuracy I don't trust my stock being perfectly squared (I've worked on each piece a lot and they're probably good enough in reality so the markings could all be taken from a story stick). So for example, in setting out the top and bottom of the mortise for the meeting rail I've marked the TOP of the meeting rail on the stile (the top of the meeting rail is a ref face and datum point) then butted the piece and marked the bottom of the rail on their respective sides. Not entirely necessary but how I work.



Having said all that I had some sort of brain melt and marked entirely the wrong area! Not the end of the world, some of these marks will disappear with the work and the rest should come out hopefully



Here are 2 lower stiles showing lower rail and horizontal bar mortise, external edges together and marked for tenoning and rebating. The bars will be stubbed but the lower and meeting rails through.



Here is where the lower meeting rail joins. The pencil show a little piece of wood removed for the double tenon/fork of the rail. This isn't essential but it makes the whole connection much sturdier. All 3 gauges will be used with these settings on the meeting rail



These marks are transfered on the pulley side edge but don't transfer them over the faces in a visible way.

Here is the meeting rail marked out with a tenon between the "x"s and a tenon below the knife point



The underside of the lower sash meeting rail gets a groove for the glazing rather than a rebate as it wouldn't be practical to putty or provide enough meeting wood otherwise. The groove will end between the tenons.



Now time to chop

 

[Planeiron]

Quick post to show some actual woodwork. An exploded diagram helps in visualising where everything goes. As good as the old texts are I couldn't seem to find a picture as useful as this one. While there are details that will be different on my sashes, I still find this helpful.



I find a little guide helpful. It's only an inch in each side and meet in the middle so could certainly be done freehand.



Reasonably good meeting plane of side walls after chopping each side



2 of those required on each stile and a stub for the bars. Here is the little recess in the stile for the second tenon/fork on the meeting rail. Saw just inside the lines and chisel most of the waste out aiming from both sides slightly upwards.




Finish off with a router plane



Check mortice walls are square. Those 2 pencil lines are visual guides when I'm chopping the ends of the mortice. They are erased immediately in case they are cut in a moment of absentmindedness!



Morticing done on 2 stiles but still lots to do on these pieces