Mike's ext'n & renovation (solar panels)

[Mike G]

One out of clamps, and one into clamps:





It's hard to see precisely what is going on with the second one, but it is a cupboard with a drawer over, albeit the cupboard door will look like drawer fronts.

 

[BucksDad]

Very impressive Mike.

That's a good idea, Andy. The only downside I can see to that is that I am going constantly from marking to sawing to shooting, so the glove would be going on and off all the time.

Get yourself some of these. I wear them when it's cold in the workshop and they're so comfortable (and breathable enough that my hands don't get sweaty) that I forget I'm wearing them after not very long.

I am not sure Mike would ever consider spending that much on some gloves unless they were wicketkeeping ones

 

[Dr.Al]

Very impressive Mike.

That's a good idea, Andy. The only downside I can see to that is that I am going constantly from marking to sawing to shooting, so the glove would be going on and off all the time.

Get yourself some of these. I wear them when it's cold in the workshop and they're so comfortable (and breathable enough that my hands don't get sweaty) that I forget I'm wearing them after not very long.

I am not sure Mike would ever consider spending that much on some gloves unless they were wicketkeeping ones

To be fair, that price (£24) was for the pack of 6 pairs, so they're only £4 a pair (if ordering 6 pairs). I'm sure you can buy them in smaller packs for less money elsewhere - that was just what came up in a google search for the brand / model.

 

[BucksDad]

Oops I didn't notice it was for a pack of 6

As you were!

 

[Mike G]

Right, where were we? It seems that I had just glued up the frames of the smaller units. Let's carry on from there.....

I brought the frames in so that I could mark up the side panels against the wonky wall and floor:



Cutting them out didn't warrant a photo, but using a hole-cutter does, I think. Firstly, I sharpened it, because it was burning in the wood. Then, after drilling a pilot hole and cutting in from both sides in the normal way, I had an almighty fight trying to get the waste out of the cutter. That led me to try this:



...and it worked a charm. The bits dropped out of the cutter without me trying. These holes are ventilation holes in the side of the computer cupboard:





There'll be a socket near my knees:





I brought the boxes back in again, and spent ages squaring things up and levelling. This was all happening in the odd hour or two in the evening during the week:



I also finished carving roses:



.......and did some more reeding:



I glued a piece onto two of them, the purpose of which you'll see in a minute:



The weekend. I can now put some hours in. Whilst the carcases were in and everything squared up, I made a pattern for the desk-top:







I used this to mark up the top and then cut it out:



It fits, but it's a pain getting in and out of position:



I took the desk top and the smaller pedestals back to the workshop. First job was to glue the corner pieces on (here's why I glued some pieces on to a couple of them), and the other facing piece:







At this point (Saturday lunchtime), my wife went out for the afternoon, which was a perfect opportunity to turn the power off and do some work on the electrics (and phone). Here's the sockets etc when I started:



And this is what it was like 5 hours later:



I have since plastered the holes in the wall where the back boxes were removed (using 2 year-old plaster, slowed down by mixing with some cement). I've left some cables slack and un-clipped because until everything is in from the workshop I can't be certain of where they will need to run.

Sunday saw a welcome return to woodwork. I started with the skirting around the pedestals:

Lots of sawing and planing (shooting):



Just a comment on sawing. I know a lot of people cut mitres on chop saws, but I do it by hand, with a cheap tenon saw I bought from the local hardware shop in Leicester in the late 70s. It really isn't hard to be very accurate with a tenon saw:



Coping. I'm going to do a little tutorial, which you might want to skip over if you know how to do it.

I have two places where I can't mitre skirting to skirting, but have to cope one to the other. This is at the junction between the big carcase and the small carcase each side, because it is impossible to know precisely where they will sit in relation to each other until they are fixed to the wall. I start coping by cutting a mitre:



The line where the mitre meets the face is the line you need to cut out. Grasping this principle is the key to coping. Have a think about it if you haven't come across this concept before. Then it is just a case of cutting and filing:



The cut in the photo above is more interesting than you might think. You will get no chance to clean it up, or tweak it, so you have to get it right off the saw. As with the entire coped joint, everything is undercut (backwards):



The coping saw removes the curved stuff at the top, and then you just clean up carefully with a file, and a chisel:







I glued the skirting in place, and then set to work on the moulding under the desktop. Firstly, I had to prepare the underside of the top, which is complicated by the edge trim being wider than the veneered MDF. I glued and pinned some bits in place to bring everything level with the bottom edge of the trim:



I was assured the other day on here that parcel tape has zero thickness. :lol: :lol: So, I taped up the places where the quadrant-like moulding will be:



....and got on with the fitting of it. Here's a dry fit, with the carcase upside down in position on the underside of the desk-top:



Then glued and pinned:



I then scratched the edge detail into the desktop front edge:





This evening I separated everything, and you can see the weirdness this junction between carcase and desk-top causes:



But I'm happy with the look:



I slapped on some woodstain, and wiped off the surplus:





Tomorrow morning I'll get the first coat of thinned oil-varnish mix on, and this lot can come in by the end of the week.

 

[Mike G]

Last time, if you're following along, I had made all the bits for the desk and did a dry fit in the workshop:



Then, it was a week of staining and finishing. The desk-top got 4 layers of my mix. When I got back from a short trip abroad, I brought everything in and did the final sizing and adjusting. This is a dry fit:



It's always going to be difficult taking decent pictures of this with a south-facing window right in the middle of the shot, so bear with me.

I made this quickly in pine:



Then fitted it here:



Essentially it is the batten supporting the desk top across the knee hole, but with a cable shelf attached. In hindsight, a couple more of the little verticals, a little bit longer (taller), would have been ideal. It took a day and a half to put everything together. There are brackets, battens and little plastic connecting blocks everywhere:



The cable shelf worked pretty well, so I won't trip over cables any longer:



This is how I was working before I built this desk. I just couldn't tolerate it any longer, hence this project when I really have other things needing my attention:



I don't think I've worked with veneered MDF before. I had expected that it would stay flat (it was well stored), but it didn't. I had to weight it down into place a couple of times:



If we look back at my original drawing, you'll see that the computer monitor is raised well above the desk top. It looks as though it is standing on the window ledge, but of course that is too narrow:



So, the next job is to hold the monitor where it needs to be. The desktop is low (about 640 above floor level), and I like to have the monitor level with my eyes. I picked out a couple of likely scraps of oak, and started work:









A quick check to see that it was going to be about right:



You can see it's other major function here:



......and whilst I was in doing that I made a template from a Special K packet:



Stopped rebates are a little awkward with hand-tools, and I couldn't be bothered getting the router out, so I just cracked on the old-fashioned way:





Through-rebates, though, are easy. Note my work-holding. It really is time for a new bench.



I want to fit my USB hub into this stand:



It hasn't exactly helped me by not having a single flat surface or right angle:



After a bit of thought I worked out that I would have to hide one of the ports, of which there is an excess anyway. I carefully marked out and chopped away the outside face:



I then had to resort to the router to work from the rear, as the remnant face of wood I was leaving was going to be very thin (3mm or so). I couldn't risk bashing this with a mallet and chisel. Look how much trouble the curved surfaces have caused!:



With a couple of odd-shaped clamps to hold it in place, the idea seems to have worked:









I did have to take a file to the plastic, though (the white patch just above the end-piece):



After scratching a bead on the top piece, I glued everything up:



I don't have a photo, but I de-clamped this morning and the glue-up wasn't perfect. I had to run a saw through a join, and re-glue. I clearly didn't use quite enough cramps.

Back to yesterday. I ran a half-cove cut along the back of a few inches of my little round-over moulding, then cut it into tiny pieces and glued it together:



They look OK this morning. You'll see their purpose in a day or two:



I also scratched a bead on some decorative pieces to cover the corners (I had to do them in halves as I couldn't hold the work any other way):



A quick bit of cutting, shooting and gluing, then in for breakfast:

 

[AndyP]

I took the liberty of editing one of Mike’s photos. Amazing what the iPad can do.

 

[AndyT]

Mike, I'm impressed with your work, as ever, but a bit puzzled about how you will be fitting the drawers.

Will you dismantle the drawer boxes and take them back to the workshop?

Will you be going back and forth with drawer parts, fitting each one?

Will you set up shop temporarily, in your office?

Or do you have some cunning plan I've not thought of?

 

[Mike G]

Thanks Andy. Yes, I was being a bit lazy. Here's a quick go in Gimp:



I forgot to say:

Number of secret compartments sneaked past the forumites: 1, so far.

 

[Mike G]

Mike, I'm impressed with your work, as ever, but a bit puzzled about how you will be fitting the drawers.

Will you dismantle the drawer boxes and take them back to the workshop?

Will you be going back and forth with drawer parts, fitting each one?

Will you set up shop temporarily, in your office?

Or do you have some cunning plan I've not thought of?

Yes, that's going to be a pain. Essentially I will take measurements and make up the drawer fronts (plain, without cock beads), bring them all in along with a plane, and tweak their fit. Back out to the workshop to fit the cock beads, make the drawers, blind dovetailed to the fronts. Bring them all in along with a plane, and adjust as necessary. Back out to the workshop to stain and finish.

 

[AndyT]

Ah. You have my sympathy.

But thanks for answering your earlier teaser about the number of parts per drawer front!

 

[Mike G]

Oooooh, but I haven't, Andy.

 

[AndyT]

Ok. One for the front. Four bits of cock beading. That leaves 8. What comes in a set of 8 and could be carved as elaborate drawer pulls?

Seven deadly sins on a plinth?

Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse standing on the Four Corners of the World?

 

[Mike G]

No carving. And the key to the answer is something far more fundamental.

 

[Mike G]

I did a couple of hours in the workshop this evening. Let me refer you back to the drawing. Note the bookshelves above the corner drawer units. Well, everything was sized to suit this bookshelf I made many years ago:





The shelf supports are called banjo shelf supports:



Luckily, either I couldn't count when I built the shelves, or there was a minimum order, as I've got a ton of them left:



Time to get the saw out:





I had to hunt for it, but finally I had a workshop job for the least used of my power tools:





As well as shortening a bookcase, I also did possibly the most fiddly glue up I have done in years. I always knew it was going to be awkward. I even tried hot-melt glue, but the glue-lines were so fat I gave up on that and peeled the plastic off. Eventually, I settled for using Araldite, for the first time I can ever remember on wood:



Those are obviously destined for the bottom edge of the monitor stand. They went straight from the workshop into an airing cupboard to make sure they set properly and on time. I hung a note on the handle saying "no entry"! The upper edge under the top was simple stuff, just glued and pinned in the usual way:





It needs a clock, doesn't it.........

 

[TrimTheKing]

Okay, I'm confuddled and I give up, what the Jeff is it...?

 

[Mike G]

It's this, being dressed up a bit:



Just a stand for my monitor, which hides the cable access to the desktop and includes a USB hub.

 

[TrimTheKing]

Ahhhh, thanks Mike, very swish.

 

[AndyP]

That stand is cool but should a monitor, or any other electrical equipment, be left in the middle of a south facing window? Or do you have some fancy heat reflecting glass?

 

[Mike G]

It's a triple glazed window with two low emissivity coatings. It's an issue I hadn't thought of, but I think it should be OK, particularly as when it is hot the window will be open.

 

[toolsntat]

All these components for the drawer fronts Mike....

Using up rips and vertically laminating them with maybe a couple of breadboard ends for good measure.
Not forgetting the possibility of two wooden drawer pulls?

Cheers, Andy

 

[Mike G]

No, not that Andy. In fact, I can say that I'll be using as few pieces of wood as possible.

 

[Mike G]

Get your excuses in early... :lol: I had family here over the weekend, so workshop time was much reduced. Still, with an hour here and there through the week I have made a little progress. Last time, I was just starting to make a new bookcase out of an old one:



The new ones are going to have facing pieces as per the drawer units, with a Tudor rose and some reeding. I brought the shelf in and stood it in place so that I could scribe the facing piece against the wall:



Nearly touching at the bottom, but this far out at the top:





Having got the piece fitting to the wall, I did the carving, reeding and beading (I had to sharpen my scratch-stocks as they've done a bit of work):



They then got stained, before being glued in place. I also made an arch for the head:





I sliced the front edges off all of the bookshelves, and scratched 2 beads:



Nothing is straight or level, so the skirting around the foot needed to be located in situ, rather than in the workshop. I did all the mitres, then lugged the case in and stood it in place. Note the bits of blue tape:



I had to go and make some more skirting, and cut a new piece (with its mitre), because I made the previous one 5 mm short. The gap to the wall was much larger than I had noted. It will be covered by a cover strip when the bookcase is fitted:



This picture sort-of shows the purpose of the blue tape. I simply ran a knife along the top of the skirting, to mark precisely where they needed to be glued:







I got some 1:1:1 on everything:





Interestingly, there didn't seem to be any sign of a finish on the old bookcase. Obviously I had stained them, but either I applied nothing at all, or, more likely, I used wax and it had simply worn off over the 20 or so years. Anyway, they got the oil/ varnish mix, and look a lot better already.

I think I was gluing this thing up last time:







And I said something along the lines of "it needs a clock".........



A few carefully aimed blows and a quarter inch chisel....



Then some chiseling behind:



......and a drop of stain.....



I think that will be a subtle enough clock.

 

[AJB Temple]

Love the clock. Could be a tad bigger.

 

[Malc2098]

Nice.

 

[AJB Temple]

I have just removed a solid oak bookcase about 3m by 2m in that colour. It's quite well made with everything fitted with stopped rebates and even solid oak cupboard backs, but the numpty who fitted it thought that screwing 3 60mm screws through the back cupboards directly into a plastered wall with no plugs was sufficient. :shock:

I can barely lift one end, and with books in it is seriously heavy. Luckily it never fell over. It was on a concrete step.

It's going to be painted. Possibly dark green matt.

And when I revamp the room it will magically be rotated to upright.

 

[Mike G]

Painted oak! Really? It's pricey stuff these days. Why don't you store it and make something nice out of it, and just put in some softwood shelves if you want them painted.

 

[Mike G]

Love the clock. Could be a tad bigger.

Being 18" away, I think it's probably big enough.....

 

[AJB Temple]

Painted. Yes. If I knock it apart then I have to accept that I lose a lot of thickness with stopped rebates. I could sand it all back to light oak, but I don't know how deep the stain goes and there are dozens of awkward corners. Plus I need it painted and back in place pronto so I can get on with laying the stone. Time is of the essence as well. Also I still have some oak stocks.

 

[Dr.Al]

Really enjoying this thread, but I really hate imgur

I don't know whether it's just me, just the woodhaven or more general, but I find I have to save links to the threads and come back to read them later when the images are working.

 

[TrimTheKing]

… And when I revamp the room it will magically be rotated to upright.

And as if by magic…

 

[TrimTheKing]

Really enjoying this thread, but I really hate imgur

I don't know whether it's just me, just the woodhaven or more general, but I find I have to save links to the threads and come back to read them later when the images are working.

The forum software is old and crap but not the cause of this because I don’t see the same behaviour.

 

[AndyT]

I've seen missing images like that sometimes. Not often though.

 

[Cabinetman]

Yes, even a total computer numbskull like me doesn’t have a problem, except maybe once in a blue moon, seems to be when the internet is really poor.
Ian

 

[AJB Temple]

I get missing images frequently as well. Usually clears itself after a while. It's like the rotate thing which sometimes works for people and sometimes doesn't. Maybe some software incompatibility, but we also have very difficult internet.

 

[Mike G]

The varnish mix is finished and dry, so I brought the case in this morning and fixed it in place:



It would have been better if I hadn't bashed the bottom corner when I was carrying it in.

The spacing of the shelves hasn't worked out perfectly, so I think I'll close up the gaps between holes for the Banjo fittings on the other side. Also, note that the bottom of this case doesn't have a shelf, to accomodate the rpinter. The other side will be different. I will do the cornice for both at the same time, so that I can match them. The ceiling is nowhere near flat or level.

 

[Mike G]

The clock is in, and books are to follow now.

 

[Cabinetman]

Looking good Mike, always good to have a nice place to work, no distractions and a peaceful environment.

 

[Mike G]

Thanks Ian.

 

[AndyT]

Nice but I still want to see the mysterious drawers!
And the secret compartment for the honey