• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Post a photo of the last thing you made...

Nice, Rob. And as a bonus, that's some Japanese art which I like. All round very nice. Let me know if your stocks of bog oak run low.
 
can I ask where do you get the glass rob? I know it's not cheap, very nice job on the frames as well.
 
thetyreman said:
can I ask where do you get the glass rob? I know it's not cheap, very nice job on the frames as well.
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I get it from a local picture framer in town; I've tried glaziers and they look at you with a sort of blank expression and say they've never heard of the stuff. You're right, it's not cheap but once you've done one picture in it you'll never go back to ordinary picture glass - Rob
 
beer mats made from a guitar project offcuts, flamed maple + walnut finished with french polish.
 

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Blackswanwood said:
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Bench hooks - I made two so one can be a support when sawing longer pieces.
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Nice and practical, do you use pull saws at all? You could shorten the cross batten and turn the B/H round. Or with your end vice you could put another cross batten so that it dropped into the vice slot, then turn it over for pullsaws.
For longer pieces to be cut I have a piece of wood held on by magnets on the L/h side of my hook, always to hand then.
 
Cabinetman said:
Nice and practical, do you use pull saws at all? You could shorten the cross batten and turn the B/H round. Or with your end vice you could put another cross batten so that it dropped into the vice slot, then turn it over for pullsaws.
For longer pieces to be cut I have a piece of wood held on by magnets on the L/h side of my hook, always to hand then.
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No, I only use “western” saws Ian.

That’s an excellent idea to keep a support piece to hand.
 
A little case for a Moore & Wright 1200 vernier caliper. I made it from some reclaimed mahogany, from an old piano. Stained with potassium permanganate, finished (roughly!) with shellac. Two pairs of tiny 3mm magnets hold the lid shut.

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AndyT said:
A little case for a Moore & Wright 1200 vernier caliper. I made it from some reclaimed mahogany, from an old piano. Stained with potassium permanganate, finished (roughly!) with shellac. Two pairs of tiny 3mm magnets hold the lid shut.

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Aw cute! You carved a little dog on the lid! :)
 
Cabinetman said:
Really like that Andy, also the no nonsense mounting of the hinges
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I already had the tiny hinges, salvaged from somewhere, and this seemed the only option. It meant that I could use relatively long screws - 5/8" no 2 - going sideways into the wood. Also, they are stiff hinges, so the lid stays open until you push it shut.
 
Blackswanwood said:
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My first carving …
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Well done Robert. Excellent. How big is it, and what's the wood?


The stuff that people don't notice.....the flat bits........are the hardest, aren't they. There's an awful lot of flexibility/ forgiveness in the busy parts of a carving, but the lowered "fields" are tricky.
 
Once you have mastered the skill required to hand carve you can advance to pretty much anything in woodwork. Very well done.
 
Mike G said:
Well done Robert. Excellent. How big is it, and what's the wood?


The stuff that people don't notice.....the flat bits........are the hardest, aren't they. There's an awful lot of flexibility/ forgiveness in the busy parts of a carving, but the lowered "fields" are tricky.
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Thanks Mike. I agree. The other challenge for me is knowing when to stop trying to improve it. I expect only practice can cure that.
 
The Marriage of Prince Genji, a series of three original Japanese woodblock prints dating from around 1850, so late Edo period. They're all arranged in line under the museum quality, non-reflective glass together with a tiny fleck of Bubinga (arrowed):

IMG_4430.jpeg

...which is so small you can hardly see it. But it's there and has to be removed by taking the whole assembly apart and very carefully removing the fleck of dust before re-assembly. Each of the prints is held in place on the mounting board under the glass by a double layer of Japanese acid free, conservation grade tissue paper (£16 for an A1 sized sheet from this place, a stones throw from Victoria St) so that when it's compressed as the tabs are driven in, everything stays put. No tape, no glue.
Not the first time a minute speck of sawdust has meant that I've had to take a picture apart and it won't be the last. This one though, was very, very tricky to do - Rob
 
Rob, I can't sleep, I think there might be a pea under the bottom of our five feather mattresses... could you pop over and test it please? :ROFLMAO:

Seriously though, hats off to your patience.
 
AndyT said:
Rob, I can't sleep, I think there might be a pea under the bottom of our five feather mattresses... could you pop over and test it please? :ROFLMAO:

Seriously though, hats off to your patience.
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Once you know it's there Andy you (or I) couldn't live with it...it would always, forever and a day just irritate:cry:

I've just been out to remove the brown tape on the reverse side as the longer that stuff's stuck in place, the harder it is to remove. Again, Japanese tape freely available on Amazon and really good stuff - Rob
 
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More info in the heat treatment oven thread...
 
As a break from making the chairs, I've just finished making this pair of candlesticks. (The colour is a bit off in the photos. They look a bit more orange than they are in reality.)


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I bought the wood, a board of nicely figured French walnut, thinking I might make some Edward Barnsley style electric lamps but unfortunately the board wasn't quite thick enough. Instead, I made this modified, smaller version as candlesticks.

Other than using the metal lathe for the brass inserts and a pillar drill to drill the holes for them, this was a hand tools only project.

They'll be a 50th birthday present for a friend.
 
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I think you've definitely got the hang of using a spokeshave! Very nice pair.
 
Cabinetman said:
Very nicely made Nick, but creating those wide flats on the bases - don’t know how I’d do it but a spokeshave wasn’t leaping to mind!
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I remembered this thread...
www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk

Edward Barnsley Workshop

I haven't been posting on here much recently, but have still been woodworking. I've actually been doing a pupillage at Edward Barnsley for the past couple of months or so, which has been great fun and extremely educational. I've been woodworking for around 3 years now. I'm entirely self...
www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk
 
NickM said:
As a break from making the chairs, I've just finished making this pair of candlesticks. (The colour is a bit off in the photos. They look a bit more orange than they are in reality.)


View attachment 32104

I bought the wood, a board of nicely figured French walnut, thinking I might make some Edward Barnsley style electric lamps but unfortunately the board wasn't quite thick enough. Instead, I made this modified, smaller version as candlesticks.

Other than using the metal lathe for the brass inserts and a pillar drill to drill the holes for them, this was a hand tools only project.

They'll be a 50th birthday present for a friend.
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Twenty years ago I wouldn't have known enough to know how difficult those would be to make. To keep the lines neat like this is a real test, and I'm very impressed.
 
Those are exceptionally impressive but I can't help but feel that the effect of molten candle wax running down the stems isn't going to do them any good :ROFLMAO: - Rob

Edit - Andy T's linkie to the EB 'shop is also an excellent read. I'd always wondered how those lamps were made...best not to try them in Paduk!!
 
Woodbloke said:
Those are exceptionally impressive but I can't help but feel that the effect of molten candle wax running down the stems isn't going to do them any good :ROFLMAO: - Rob
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I wondered about that, but I think the wax should come off easily enough.
 
They are excellent Nick. I doubt I could do that. Very impressive hand work.
 
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