• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Post a photo of the last thing you made...

Very nice, Nick. It's nice to see a dovetailed box. Is there a a little overhang, or a scoop/ depression, to enable fingers easy access for opening?
Thanks Mike. Yes, the front bottom edge of the lid overhangs - it's curved so there is more overhang in the centre. The front top edge of the lid is straight so there's a nice variably bevelled edge on the front of the lid. I hope that makes a bit of sense!
 
The chap who gives me my turning timber daughter is getting married & she wanted 10 cookies to place flower arrangements on on the tables, these are the last 3 I’ve just run over the planer.
At first I thought I’d have to make a router sled but thought I’d try the planer before I went to the hassle of making a sled, I was presently surprised no tear out & it didn’t even chip the bark off even though the Beech read 20% moisture content.

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I was more chuffed with them than he was, not that I like them but what I thought would be a fair few hours job only took 15 minutes 🙂
 
I posted photos of a goosberry rake I made a few weeks ago, so here is what it achieved at the first time if asking:

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That was 5 or 10 minutes of work, and much of that was in picking up the spillage off the ground. It was remarkably quick and easy, and I didn't get scratched at all. It needs some modification to reduce the amount of spillage, but all in all, it works a treat. Now, whose turn is it to top and tail them?

Oh, and I thought I had videod the process. Seems like I may have pressed the wrong button.....
 
This little job has been keeping me busy for a few days.

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This was originally the outside door of a 1930 house which used to open onto an open porch, at some time a door had been added to the front opening of the porch it can just be made out through the fan light. Also a combi boiler had been installed to the right hand wall in the porch, I was tasked with opening this up to make the hallway bigger.
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The floor level needed picking up so the chap who fitted the new front door had laid some blue bricks prior to fitting the door for me to screed up to.
I fitted a door frame in the alcove the boiler is in & before finishing the stud work installed a removable hatch above the boiler just in case access is needed for the pipework above the ceiling, either the centre pieces can be removed or all of it.

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The brick work in the house is all over the place but after some challenging plasterboarding it was ready for a skim coat

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Monday will see the door & architrave fitted though the flooring & skirting will have to wait a while for the screed to dry sufficiently.
 
Rob, you're going to need something to store all these beautiful boxes in! :)
 
As expected, it's now been 'claimed';

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...by SWIMBO for her pens & pencils etc. It now a 'co-ordinated accessory' for the stand on her previously claimed Owl Cabinet which is stuffed full of 'stuff'. There are other more appropriate terms that could be used:ROFLMAO:..... - Rob
 
Clever.
I think you are brave placing that between two doors like that. Around here that would knocked about quite a lot.
 
Not exactly fine woodworking :)
The centre's about 80cm deep, the sink is a bog filter (the basket's in there til we decide what to do with it, it'll have moneywort in due course). Once the water is ready, we're hoping to get some stickleback to keep in the pond.
The pump's 24v, and the cable will be buried under the slabs once I get round to it.

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My (second-hand, from a junk shop) Rapier #43 plough plane didn't come with any blades. I've been meaning to make some for it for a long time but I finally got round to it yesterday. I've used it quite a bit in the past and it's a lovely little plane, but I've always just relied on my (home-made out of of gauge plate) blades for the #45, which are quite long (and have a notch for the depth adjuster). They work fine, but the protruding blade is a little uncomfortable in the hand:

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Following a thread from @derekcohen I thought I'd try making some blades the lazy way: out of high speed steel instead of gauge plate. Doing so means no heat treatment: just grinding them to shape. Time will tell how they compare to carbon steel blades (from what I've read, high speed steel isn't that great with < 45° bevel angles) but they won't get the same amount of use as a proper plane blade so I'm not too concerned.

I've made them in 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm (ish) and 6 mm widths, all 3 mm thick and all 70 mm long:

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I say "ish" for the 5 mm one because they were all made from ready-sized (but much longer) blanks. The 3 mm, 4 mm and 6 mm ones were pretty close to the nominal dimension, but the 5 mm blank was only 4.9 mm wide. I'm sure that's close enough for woodwork (I can always plane the wood going into the groove down a little to get it to fit).

I also 3D-printed a simple little case for them:

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"Why now?" I hear none of you crying out. Well, there's a simple reason for that. I was loading up the travel toolchest yesterday and it occurred to me that it would be interesting to see if the plough plane would fit into one of the unallocated pockets in one of the drawers. I had to fully dismantle it (including removing the depth stop), but it fits remarkably snuggly (with the blade case sitting in an Altoids tin that I take with me for odds and sods):

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I don't really need a plough plane in the kit (I've got the router plane with its fence) but a plough plane will do a much better job of, well, ploughing. It might also mean I can, at some point in the future, use the space currently allocated to the router plane fence for something else: that's quite a deep pocket (the fence stands upright in the router plane drawer) so the space could be quite useful.
 
Not posted in a while as works been really busy the last few months & looks like it’s going to continue that way up to Xmas, mainly mundane shower rooms the latest of which had had 2 trays fitted in 5 years both of which had cracked which wasn’t surprising as the floor was rotten leading to more movement than the trays could cope with 🫣 I can’t believe how shortsighted some folks are & what they are willing to fit to.

Something a little bit different & interesting to me we’re these bifold doors which were a first for me, I’ve fitted countless windows & doors but never bifolds.

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They are on a neighbour’s extension which I’ve been working on as & when the chap has saved enough money for the next phase, they went in a treat I was really pleased with the outcome as was he.

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Next up on this is insulating & screeding the floor which should happen the week after next.
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On the home front I’ve managed to get a little time to carry on with a wood store at the side of our house I laid the foundation back during the first covid lockdown :oops:

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Hand mixed fibre reinforced concrete was the order of the day

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Though I could have done without rain which slowed down trowelling up.

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So a couple of weeks ago I made a start on the frame work

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The rafters being covered in t&g OSB

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Then covered in rubber

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Finally for now the the 5 year old temporary gate was moved to the end, insulated fitted between the rafters then plasterboarded & skimmed.
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I’m now in the process of planing up timber for the front gates, though these may take a while as I’ve a couple of biggish jobs in the pipeline.
 
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No surprise, Doug, that that work all looks very tidy. Are you filling in the walls of your woodstore? If not, why insulate the roof?
 
No surprise, Doug, that that work all looks very tidy. Are you filling in the walls of your woodstore? If not, why insulate the roof?
Yes Mike I’ve got some 8x4’ cold room panels, 4” insulation metal faced both sides which will sit between the uprights, I run out some timber strips today which will hold the panels in place.
I’m trying to use up as much pine as I’ve got before I buy any more, most is fairly big sections but not that long but I’m hoping I’ve enough to make the front gates from what I’ve got.
 
The bifold patio doors seem to be popular your way, over here not so much. Are they pricey?
Yes, they are. I am repeatedly asked by clients to include bi-fold doors in my design for their houses or extensions, but when they get the prices, I always....always...get asked to change them to patio doors (double doors). I have only ever had one set of bi-fold doors fitted on any job I've been involved with. Their popularity is driven by one or two TV programmes, particularly a popular self-build programme called Grand Designs.

I guess the big difference between here and where you live, Scott, is that even the most efficient glazing is about 10% as energy efficient as the wall it is fitted in, and if there is snow piling up outside and it's minus 30, then that can make your house cold, or really expensive to heat. Our climate is much more mild.
 
Somewhere, in the rag-bag I call a memory, there is a thread by one of the 'Roberts' (I think) on self building the wooden frame, buying in the glazing and sliding 'shoes'. Can't remember if it is "t'other place" or here. He gave a costing, which would have to be updated.
I agree with Mike. DG panels are two kidneys and a spleen in cost for door sizes and a direct energy loss.
 
Somewhere, in the rag-bag I call a memory, there is a thread by one of the 'Roberts' (I think) on self building the wooden frame, buying in the glazing and sliding 'shoes'. Can't remember if it is "t'other place" or here. He gave a costing, which would have to be updated.
I agree with Mike. DG panels are two kidneys and a spleen in cost for door sizes and a direct energy loss.
I think it was this thread Sam, from roger M
 
What is picking up speed here is the use of triple glazed windows, good R value and blocks noise better.
I installed four large windows facing the street as part of an addition/reno a few years back and it made a big improvement. Very expensive!
 
I think it was this thread Sam, from roger M
Spot on! Thank you for having a better memory than me Andy.
And, apologies to "Roberts" everywhere. 😳
 
Got a request off the young lady I make plaques for for coffin shaped plaques, nothing fancy but annoyingly the 4mm MDF I get has dropped in quality. The surface seems fluffy & the cut edges even more so, I’m hoping my suppliers next batch will be better until then I’m having to sand, seal then sand again using Chestnuts acrylic sanding sealer 😖
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Friday saw me going over to @Bungle ‘s workshop, I’d got a job to make some office furniture for a local merchant, he’s way better set up for cutting & edge banding MFC than I am so it was a no brainier to go & do the bulk of the work at his workshop.
The panels were cut on his CNC
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Then sent through his edge bander

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The cabinets will be fixed together with knock down fittings, Lamello’s cabineo fixings

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I’ve been working on the units this morning in my own workshop & will hopefully be fitting them on Tuesday, being self assembly should make them much easier to fit in what is quite a small inaccessible office.
 
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